Hole pattern

[JohnCox]

Does anyone know where I might find a "standard" hole pattern for a slalom ski? I use the dura-lock system, and am thinking it would be simpler to at least initially test a ski if I had a plate with the dura-lock on it that I could just attach to a ski, then mount my bindings to that.

[BraceMaker]

I have several times "copied" the holes off the ski.

 

I do this with heavy paper and a crayon, and a punch. Paper is just taped lightly to the ski, you scuff back and forth over it with the crayon to show the holes, then punch all the holes. This is then a good template.

 

In terms of standards, there are a few.

 

If you have the holes for D3 and HO and perhaps Obrien - you can do most skis.

 

I would consider buying a RADAR sequence plate as your base plate. Lots of holes, and its not too expensive.

[JohnCox]

Thanks, @BraceMaker. My ski has dual lock on it, so that isn't quite so simple....but I may be able to sort through the logistics of that. Was hoping I could just get some technical drawing or something.

[MattP]

@JohnCox If I understand you correctly you just want a second plate? If your release mechanism is dura lock why do you need/want a hole pattern? Would that not defeat the purpose/releasability of the dura lock?

[JohnCox]

@MattP - It is only to use when trying out other skis. A "portable" plate with dura lock to put on a ski. Then mount my bindings to that, with the ability to release from the plate. Of course, once a ski becomes a permanent addition, the dura lock will be applied directly to the ski.

 

Probably making it more complicated than it needs to be. I do that..

[MattP]

Oh gotcha, why not just screw your bindings into the ski?...

[JohnCox]

I guess that is an option, but I would then have to drill holes in my plate that would allow me to move forward and rear, etc. And they would not have the ability to release...

 

[MattP]

What system are you using? I'm beyond confused now.

[BraceMaker]

@JohnCox - If you would like I can whip something up. With D3, but I don't have a Obrien or Connelly at home for the same.

[JohnCox]

I have Goode Powershells on the Goode Plate. With no holes. Attached to my ski using dual lock. I just was looking for a way to try out skis without having to put dual lock on every one of them.

[BraceMaker]

You have access to autocad John?

[ToddL]

Wait... so, @JohnCox, with your idea complete: you would have the Demo/Borrowed Ski -> Big, blank plate with multiple hole patterns fastened to the ski via screws and inserts. Then taped onto the blank plate would be the "ski side" of the dual lock tape. Then, you'd affix your Goode Powershell plate with the bindings onto the screwed-down plate. Correct?

 

And why couldn't you use a blank Radar Sequence plate for this?

 

FYI - most all current skis have a standard pattern for the front foot. There are two primary standards for the back boot (HO vs. D3/Radar?etc.). I think there is a 3rd rear plate hole pattern but I don't recall. Anyway, the Sequence plate fits both HO & D2/Radar hole patterns. These two standards are used on probably 80% of all current production skis.

[MattP]

@ToddL now that makes sense. Demo/Borrowed Ski -> Big, blank plate with multiple hole patterns fastened to the ski via screws and inserts. Then taped onto the blank plate would be the "ski side" of the dual lock tape. Then, you'd affix your Goode Powershell plate with the bindings onto the screwed-down plate. Correct?

 

I don't think that the Radar Sequence plate would be wide enough to cover the whole area of the Goode plate.

Get a piece of aluminum machined to the same size as your goode plate with the holes for bindings, cover in your tape then screw to ski. NOW I GET IT

[BraceMaker]

3rd rear I think is Fischer/Razor.

 

I think he could do the radar plate:

 

ALTHOUGH - The radar plate is very flexible, those floating buttons and such. I'm not sure how well it would survive the dual lock game.

 

Perhaps better would be a G10 composite plate.

[The_MS]

Get in touch with Team Malibu. He can make you the plate out of G10 and you will be set.

[MattP]

@bracemaker

Would 2 pieces of G10 + tape place him a lot higher over the ski than an aluminum plate?

I know reflex has a carbon monoplate(not the bond plate thats G10) to mount both bindings to a shingle plate, this could be taped on and comes with all holes for inserts.

[BraceMaker]

G10 comes in various thicknesses, the model rocket crowd will use a very thin G10 plate for fins and such.

 

I've seen it in 1mm and 2mm thicknesses. Because he can hit almost every insert then the plate should be well secured. The radar plate only uses ~6 screws, and in most cases only the central screws clamp the plate down.

[DanE]

Razor rear is HO/D3 rear combined

[SkiJay]

I bought an aluminum plate from Miami Ski Nautique that works for that. It has studs mounted up through the bottom so you can use nuts to fasten any bindings you want to it. It's flush/flat on the bottom so you can use Dura-Lock on the bottom. They don't advertise these, but if you call them, they'll set you up.

[BraceMaker]

@skijay - that is the opposite of what he wants.

 

That is a set up that lets you use regular bindings on skis that aren't threaded for them - Say... Demoing a Goode with out inserts when you use a pair of Wiley's.

 

Those studs would not screw into the inserts, he needs that exact plate, but every stud replaced with a slot.

[JohnCox]

@ToddL - that's exactly the concept. I have used a radar plate one time before, but it is a good bit shorter than the Goode.

 

My thinking is 2 plates to have less impact on the characteristics of the ski. I realize it will be higher off the ski, but should give me an idea whether I want to test it more, and take the time and $ to put dual lock on the ski. I have ridden skis that are pretty obvious right off I wasted my time putting on....

 

I stopped by a sign supplier place and got a sheet of aluminum that's about the thickness of a regular plate. I can cut and drill it to what I want. In two pieces, maybe even with a few perpendicular "slots" to allow the temporary plate to bend a bit.

 

@BraceMaker - I do have access to cad. I will message you email address.

 

For what it's worth, I know I am going to demo a Mapple. Possibly a d3 or radar, but maybe not.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys!

 

 

[BraceMaker]

@johncox - I'll whip a file up for you, with any data points that I have available.

 

And then you can always add some more to it later

[JohnCox]

@BraceMaker - thanks so much! Summer is coming.... :D

[jipster43]

What about drilling the Goode plate with the correct hole pattern? Would the existing dual lock on the plate compromise the screw mounts? Or would running the dual lock directly on the ski adversely affect the dual lock in the future?

 

I have the @Teammalibu G10 plate for my RS10's/Goode Fire (dual lock) and have considered drilling the G10 plate to allow for easier demoing of skis.

[JohnCox]

That's what I'm thinking @OB. But, I use clear on both the ski and plate permanently.

 

Thanks for all your feedback, guys.

[JohnCox]

@OB - I've been using the clear for 3 years. I usually end up replacing pieces, but it has help up pretty good for me. A friend of mine uses the black, and it is a struggle for him to ever get it off.