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  • Baller
Posted

OK, long story short. Skied on rope that was 2 short for 2 years. Got and measured a NEW rope, now I am getting into 38' OFF every set. SO...... Broke a handle last week. Ordered a new handle.......

 

Without naming the brand, it is a new line design with the THIN rope. So, I measure it and it is about 4' 8"....... Supposed to be 4' 11" right? SO, does the thin line sit in the rope further and give me the extra inches I want, or am I now skiing with a short handle?

HELP, I want to make sure that my entrance into 38' OFF is for REAL all the time.

 

Have not skied on the new handle yet, but ran 2 @ 38' OFF on a 4' 11" handle this morning.

  • Baller
Posted
The chances of it stretching 3+ inches are next to zero. Also much, much easier to get the knot out other loop before you ski with it for dozens of sets. I'd recommend along on it for a set or two. If it not getting a longer fast I'd re-tie it to make it longer. If its slightly too long fid a short piece of rope into the line to shorten it up.
  • Baller
Posted
The handle is measured under pressure I think it is 40 pounds. If you aren't putting weight on the handle it will measure short. They also stretch a little the first couple of sets. I don't know if that is enough to make up the 3" or not.
  • Baller
Posted
Is it possible the thinner line on the handle will "make up" for the short measure when attached with the mainline? Much thinner rope on the new style handle.
  • Baller
Posted

Thin rope, thick rope, steel cable, whatever....4'-11" is 4'-11". Not sure what you mean about true thinner rope "making up" for the length. As @Chef23 said the handle measures whatever it measures. It will stretch but 3" is a LOT for 5' of rope to grow.

 

By the way the appropriate weight is 44# (20kgs). And the measurement is taken from the inside of the handle to the inside of the loop. If the handle is bent it's from the longest point inside the handle.

  • Baller
Posted
I bought TWO handles from same place...... both measure 4' 8" under NON 44 lbs load. How I am going to get 44 lbs....... Maybe my 38 lbs son holding 6 lbs. of sugar.........
  • Baller
Posted
Loosen the end loop and let it out to 4'11" under tension. It won't stretch as much as regular poly. Likely to stay at 4'11".
  • Baller
Posted

If the thinner rope is indeed spectra, chances of it lengthening are near zero...

 

When measuring, remember that the measure should be done from the inside of the connecting loop, not the outside.

  • Baller
Posted
Ah..... I see on the rope. I now have it adjusted out to about 4' 10" and will ski it there and remeasure after a few sets! Funny the manufacturer couldn't tell me what to do...... They just said no one has ever been disqualified. Well YEAH, if it is 3" too short! CRAZY!
  • Baller
Posted

If you untie (loosen) the connecting loop you need to re-tie it exactly the same wayor risk it slipping or breaking. Either have someone familiar with it do it or return it. Ask whomever you bought it from to send you a a handle that's the correct length.

 

If you don't know how to untie it you're not likely to get t back together right. And if it is spectra it's more challenging than poly

  • Baller
Posted

I have seen some basic handle measurement setups at tournaments:

Saw horse with a piece of shelf wood about 6' long attached to the top. One end of the shelf wood has a 2"x2" stock about 3" long screwed into the shelf. This block is for resting/securing the inside edge of the handle's grip. At the other end is a typical ratchet rope crank (like on a boat trailer) with a spring weight measurement device hooked to the rope crank.

 

The handle's rope end is hooked onto the spring weight, the crank is advanced until the spring weight measures the prescribed amount of tension. The handle is measured at this point from hook to block. These setups typically have been pre-marked with lines at the perfect actual length and the min/max tolerances.

 

 

  • Baller
Posted
I didn't untie the line, it is a high end rope and was easily "slid into place". Not a risk of coming undone. Since it had never been skied on, it was really easy to adjust.
  • Baller
Posted

Don't we have some hokey rules?

Why not hook and pull taught?

All ropes used in tourneys are spec'd, not like someone is using secret bungee in a bridle that increases 6" while under load.

  • Gold Member
Posted
Actually, I've never understood why you need to stretch it, because when the length matters most it's under little or no tension. If you bungee out behind the boat, then it's just snapping back into the turn, which would be a huge disadvantage.
Posted
Ah- It is NOT a "slip knot" if tied correctly. The line needs to pass through the rope, around the standing line at least once and back under the turn(s) and fidded into running line. There were some handles being manufactured with a hokey kind of loop and "anchored" in place with super glue or whatever. The knots moved, and had to be properly tied as described. Spectra or other kevlar line does tend to move a bit once in the water and the braids and knots 'set'. If it starts at 4'-10" it may well end up at 4'-11 1/2"... Then it does not change very much. It has virtually no stretch, and may be an issue if you suffer tendonitis in the wrists, elbows or shoulders... It is also about 5 times (at least) stronger, and less prone to break and frays in a way different manner.
  • Baller
Posted

@than good point.

a Shorter handle is a good thing. when you go somewhere new and use a different handle you will ski better.

 

Boat path and slack can make up for way more than that with available or useable rope length.

If you like the handle keep it and ski with it.

  • Baller
Posted
Agree @GOODESkier, Panda worthy for sure! Why practice with a handle and get used to the feel of it and then switch when you go to a tournament. That is how opening passes are missed.
  • Baller
Posted

Some of the skinny rope (is that spectra or kevlar?) do give a bit after a few sets. Try skiing and then measure with the 44lb.

 

 

 

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