Ski Pylon slipping bracket on a 2009 Nautique 196

[jhartman8]

Looking for some guidance on the base Pylon bracket of my 2009 Nautique 196.   Is the base bracket that goes into the fiberglass a straight piece or angled.  How far does it go into the fiberglass.   Here are  two videos when I attach a rope to the pylon an pull on it.   I cannot make this move by holding on to the pylon so it takes some force to move it, but obviously it moves easily when I am skiing the course.   thoughts on best way to secure it up?  

 

[Jody_Seal]

yes that's not a good situation. seen it many many times. not a easy fix as well as inexpensive fix. engine package must be removed from the boat. pylon removed.  bilge pump removed. then a grind out of the pylon base fixture to start with a clean hull surface to re glass. the fixture needs to be clean and grease free before reglassing into place. there is a system or correct procedure for glass layup and correct placement of fixture.

I would bill that job out at nearly $3,000.

[BraceMaker]

Is that little angle iron literally the only thing keeping the pylon in place?  It doesn't span to the stringers like in a MC?

[Jody_Seal]

@BraceMaker I would actually send you a panda LOL . No, there is a super structure under floor that incorporates the engine sub frame Assy. the fixture that's glassed in the hull is for an anchoring system, and is a very robust system. the first guy i seen break one of them loose after 15 years in production was Andy some time in the mid 90's. Seen  and probably  repaired 5 others since. Had to Repair Curtis sheers ski fly boat 5 days before Moomba one year, they said they were using the 502 boat to tow the jump into place or something and heard a crack!!

 

Edited June 5, 2023 by Jody_Seal

[jhartman8]

@Jodi_Seal what are your thoughts about going in through the in floor cooler before the pylon.  I don't use it or need it. Seems like an easier access point versus removing the engine.  

[Jody_Seal]

good luck. all the ones I did were real nice boats so ripping up the floor carpet and grinding and cutting of the floor assembly was out of the question.. actually never thought about it.. disassembly is far easier and cleaner then cutting and grinding...

also the storage box is part of the floor assembly that reinforce the floor as a whole cut that out you will have a soft floor. 

[jhartman8]

That was my concern if it would hurt the integrity since it's molded in.   

 

[LeonL]

Since this seems to be a somewhat rare occurrence, is this the result of a manufacturing flaw?   Bad day for the guy who was job that was?

[JackQ]

This happened to my 2009.  Even with the engine out, it is a tight job.  Cleaned and roughed up the fiberglass.  I noticed that  the Stainless bracket that is “attached” to the hull does not have the same contour as the  hulls, so I bought some Totalboat polyester structural repair putty and put where the bracket goes, with wax paper under the bracket. This made a good contact area under the bracket, then put down 4 or so layers of S glass fiberglass (stronger than the E glass used on boats) in about a 12” square area. When fully cured, I placed the bracket, plyon etc in placed. Then I put a few layers of glass over the two sides of the bracket.  When cured, I then removed the plyon, and put down about 20 layers in alternate directions of the s glass cloth.  Replaced the cutless bearing (do it when easy), reinstalled everything and aligned the engine to shaft.  Maybe over engineered the solution, but do not want to do again.  3 years later it is still solid.  

[jhartman8]

Thanks for the detail @JackQ  Quite a job.  Just amazing how this is engineered / designed, but I guess it works.  My buddy has an alum fab shop and we have an idea that is less evasive and costly.  Will send picks if it works, but got the idea from another baller on a very old post.   

[jhartman8]

On 6/9/2023 at 6:55 AM, jhartman8 said:

Thanks for the detail @JackQ  Quite a job.  Just amazing how this is engineered / designed, but I guess it works.  My buddy has an alum fab shop and we have an idea that is less evasive and costly.  Will send picks if it works, but got the idea from another baller on a very old post.   

@JackQ

@Jody_Seal

 Her is my fix.  Maybe not completely ideal since it's not factory standard, but I believe this a solid solution.  Always risk of unforseen affects, but time will tell.  Thanks again for all your insight and suggestions. 

 

[JackQ]

Looks solid but I would consider and additional connection laterally.  Much of the peak load on the pylon from the side, particularly as the rope gets shorter.  Certainly with your solution the pylon is not going to be move for and aft.  Brilliant out of the box thinking.   

[jhartman8]

On 6/9/2023 at 6:55 AM, jhartman8 said:

Thanks for the detail @JackQ  Quite a job.  Just amazing how this is engineered / designed, but I guess it works.  My buddy has an alum fab shop and we have an idea that is less evasive and costly.  Will send picks if it works, but got the idea from another baller on a very old post.   

@JackQ

@Jody_Seal

 Her is my fix.  Maybe not completely ideal since it's not factory standard, but I believe this a solid solution.  Always risk of unforseen affects, but time will tell.  Thanks again for all your insight and suggestions. 

@JackQ thanks Jack  I just skied behind it. Certainly more solid.  Still a little movement, but didn't want to overtighten from the start.  Will give them a few more turns and try to figure a solution on the lateral.   

[GSchmid]

Looks like you got a decent fix. I have an ‘02 Nautique which had the same problem. To fix it, here’s what I did:

I cleaned the base of the hull forward if the pylon base with acetone. Pretty much had to do this blind while reaching in from the engine bay. 

Trimmed about 5 carbon fiber squares to fit between the gap from the pylon to the fiberglass ridge under the cooler

I mixed up some 30 min resin and poured it in that gap and then just layered  the squares in one at a time adding resin on top of each square.

I was pretty liberal with the resin, and I layered it at least 3/8 of an inch high. There’s a nice little valley where the resin pools up in front of the pylon 

it’s held up perfectly so far (3yrs) and I was able to do this fix in about two hours, albeit laying on my belly.

I guess this is too late to be useful for you but maybe it’ll help the next guy…

 

 

[jhartman8]

Actually good to know @GSchmid  I thought about putting some epoxy on the front of the bracket as an added support.  Assume u had the pylon out when u did this? Also, you just built it high enough to support the bracket and not touch the pylon, correct?  Thanks for the tip. 

[EFW]

"Necessity is the mother of invention" 

[jhartman8]

 @GSchmid  what brand of epoxy did you use?  There is a big selection out there in 30 minute epoxies.  

[MDB1056]

Most epoxies once mixed only have 30 mins work time max.