lefty

@jpwhit Thanks so much for all this. I had a ski buddy with me this morning who is way more savvy than me with machines. Seems I tested the Canbus wires but not the plug. Just did the plug and it gave almost exactly 120 ohms. I think that my electronics skills are already maxed out, I’m more likely to cause another problem than fix the current one if I go any further. Definitely want to give the MC technician the best chance to figure this out. I can’t see why this would not be under warranty. there has been a pattern lately of it working initially then not working, although once last week it was the opposite, didn’t work off the dock but then sorta worked at the end of 3 skiers. My plan going forward is to continue using the boat and seeing if there is a consistent pattern emerging. Also work on the dealership giving me a set amount of time to work on the boat. Ideally this stops becoming intermittent so when I take it to them the problems are apparent. If you think plugging in a screen would be a solid idea to narrow it down then I would gladly accept your offer if you happen to have the right parts. I will also see if the dealer happens to have one they could send me thanks again, much appreciated

Depends on the brand, start within the recommended range and demo if you can.

@Jaypro any input?

Following the clear instructions of @jpwhit I was able to easily remove the screen from the dash and have a look at the pin connectors. To my untrained eye everything looks fine, nothing pushed in or loose. All male pins looked exactly the same, clean as a whistle. Reattached screen and and went through my SOP to fire boat up.all came up normally and looked healthy. Wiggled all wires and connectors but could not recreate problems. See attached of the rpm reading, I assume this small range of reading is within the norm. Would love to have a screen that I know works and plug it in to see what happens. Have that needle in a haystack feeling. IMG_1371.MOV

Ontario Canada

So far today-glassy morning. tester on battery at rest-12.6. started boat no bilge blower on, ZO normal boot and operation. Drove my wife skiing all good. At skier change, ZO screen goes squirrelly. Unplug secondary blower and kill power at battery switch. Restart ignition and ZO still squirrelly. Turn off ZO and ski using iPhone Speedo. return to dock and put tester on Can bus terminator. Get steady reading of 94-96 ohms. Assuming this is close enough to range? screen pin connectors are next

My mind is blown! Will do this tomorrow and keep everyone who’s watching updated. Our boat has 2 blowers, one runs continuously when the engine is running in an attempt as I understand it to keep the compartment cool in this vintage. There is also the usual blower switch that clears out fumes prior to starting. I will use the open the cowling technique tomorrow instead of the blower switch. If all is good and the screen acts up when the engine is running I’ll disconnect the other blower and see. Define “battery voltage too low” for me, I would have to put a meter on the battery to determine this I think as I can’t trust the screen reading. I have a basic knowledge of batteries and how to test them using a meter The screen issue has occurred during the engine running as well as at rest so unless there is another separate issue affecting battery voltage I,m lost, as I would expect the voltage to remain fairly constant with the engine running.

Every Canadian after their first set in Florida after seeing an alligator IRL

Awesome advice, thanks again. Before I read it I had already taken the side panel off. Unplugged the 23 pin from the screen and looked and connectors, nothing obvious to the untrained eye. isolated the can bus wires from the rest, to get a good look at the union connection. Thought I had it figured out as one zip tie was right at the joints, bending them, and so I straightened it all out and fired up the system. Did it about 4 times and everything booted and looked perfect. Left it on, zero off was on to a known profile. Ran the blower while tidying up my mess thinking I would fire the engine and go for a spin. After about 3-4 minutes of the blower running things went south , flickering readings, pm reads 0, no satts, low fuel, set speed went to 70 and back and forth etc. Hand my hand under the dash and was manipulating the can bus in-line connection to no avail. tomorrow I will take the screen out and look closer at the pin connectors, maybe I will post a picture

On e again thank you for sharing your time and expertise. Once I get under the dash and get my bearings I will in all likelihood have more questions. Fingers crossed that I can find an issue without making it worse lol

It’s intermittent still, just tried 3 times and all 2 of 3 it came up normally was reading satellites and I was able to manipulate ZO settings. Stayed on dock but assume it would have run normally as well. The other time the gauge screen did come up, just the data was either reading 0 or some number that made no sense. Usually flicking around random numbers and ending up at 0. After 10 secs of that all gauges read correctly. Also got the low fuel note in top left, visually there is 1/2 a tank ., then that disappeared as well. Other 3gauges came up normally all 3 times today. when it is not coming up, it does say booting on top left. no beep. Screen comes on in normal orientation etc but all readings are 0s. FWIW, I have had overheating errors that are not cancelled out as I haven’t had it to a dealer since they came on. The errors are legit and was aided in sourcing their cause and remedy on BOS last summer. Tried last fall to get it looked at but it’s a long story regarding the “master craft shop”that I went to that had no ability to plug in the boat to the correct diagnostic tool. Will be taking it elsewhere this time. Ok seems I won’t be getting much work done today lol. Back into boat and scrolled diagnostics, found there is a 3 event fault now as well as the uncleared high temp warnings. Am feeling not so smart as I didn’t notice this yesterday.somewhat certain it is not older than a week See attached.

Thank you sir! At the very least I am learning about new things through this process, whelp off to the dealership after the long weekend. Out of curiosity, anyone know what this screen part is worth off warranty?

Hey @jpwhit, so swapped out battery and looked for obvious connection issues. Started boat, again no booting and no readings on screen nor on analog gauges. I find the analog gauge issue confusing. Are they downstream from the ZO screen or independent, how are they related? Still planning on a trip to the dealer of course

Thanks @jpwhit, follows what happened with @BlueSki situation by the sounds of it. Hopefully I can get this covered under warranty, if not I will reach out

1.was unable to turn off course manager yesterday. Had to delete the course it was reading. Seemed that although zo was engaged it wouldn’t hold set speed. Between skiers yesterday iset speed was flashing in and out at 70mph and back to actual set speed. Eventually by turning course manger off seemed to be ok. 2.when starting the boat today it did not run through a normal booting, no beep etc. read 0 satellites and would not engage any profiles. Would not read any speed or rpm or voltage etc. Heading back to dock it appeared as if the 3 analog gauges also went down. 3. Eventually kinda engaged a skier profile but would not hold speed even though the mph went from white to green. Analog gauges came back up. 4.docked boat, killed battery master switch, did some research, went back to boat and fired it up and everything seemed normal, booted normally, 14 satellites found and was able to manipulate profiles etc. did not find any errors or faults in diagnostic screen. Tomorrow I will check the connections for corrosion and damp. It is a bit cool here still so it may be a moisture issue. Sometimes condensation inside the boat in the morning. I also under stand that a weak battery may cause problems and I am due for a new battery end of this season so may just do that now.

Is the gps puck the same as the receiver?

Reviving an older thread as this is happening to our 2020 PS, among other odd issues with zo. @BlueSki how did this get resolved?

Another fan of MOB version here

From Jamie Bull’s insta, think it’s at -39. Opened my eyes to the time a good skier is in the glide stage, which I m guessing is due to the speed generated so efficiently on lean out. I’d be halfway back to centre over this length of glide FullSizeRender.MOV

@WoodySkierwhat year senate pro?

@jjackkrash-assuming your buddy tried a vapour at some point? And is he at one end or the other of the weight range of the senate?

Thanks all for lots to consider. Thinking I will start will a 67 vapour and see how it goes

@Ski_Dad-actually a 23 Vapor pro 66”. I find it maybe too reactive for my ability. I guess the question is as @jjackkrash po8nts out the 65 senate would have approximately the same area as a 66 Vapor but more under foot, so would that give me a bit more stability but still be able to turn it from less than optimal body position. As @Stevie Boy said the nimble feeling of the Vapor is great and I wonder how well I could get the 67 senate to come around, in which case a 67 vapour may be better. Certainly not the limiting factor but gives me some amusement while the lake still has a foot of ice on it

Indeed a 65” senate is what I meant.

Am looking into a new ski for 2024, currently on a vapour. Wondering g if anyone has an opinion on which would be more stable, a 67 vapour or a 66 senate. At my speed (34) , course ability(limited) and weight 170) I fit into both ranges. Also considering a Goode xtr team, either 66 or 67. Goal for ‘24 is to be consistent at 22. Thx