Martin

The ski is in the mold so you are pressing top and bottom together. Comes down to wamhat the aluminum can take. The core is soft. You can crumble it by standing on it.

Every pre preg has its temperature for the resin to soften and cure. Takes heat and time for the ski to form.

Picked up used hero 8 and updated to beta. Speed trigger works great!

Is there anyone in Orlando area that owns a whisper pro fin that I could borrow for a day or two?

Thank you! Ill go grab hero 9 and try it!

@skibug so the beta labs has speed trigger based on speed set up? Or just on and off when in motion/no motion? If that works well ill get the hero 9 black that beta is compatible with.

@cnewbert at least a Taco truck and an ice cream truck, pretty good tacos!

 

@Zman has your vest arrived? Or at least shipped? I ordered mine a week ago.. no change in status. Still processing.

 

I think I might have found the issue. I replaced a few things and it still tripped every now and then. There was a toast wire touching the block that melted the shield, I replaced it, but did not fix the problem. Every time I got under the dash it started tripping. One of the hot/ground sources powering the dash is faulty. I unplugged it and the gauge now reads 14v and it has not tripped since. I have not figured out why that source is draining power yet, I can't get to the wires behind the dash easily to track it down.

At the battery while boat is running. Battery at rest has about 11.8v. Seems like anywhere 13.8-14.3v while running now at the battery and at the closest/main circuit breakers. We skied last few days and the breaker did not trip. Dash is still only getting 12.25v while the boat is running.

The battery had 14.5v even before tightening, that's where I started when the boat tripped the first time. The voltage might have been up and down though as the connections were moving, not sure.

I measured last night and every gauge now has 12.25v. When boat running, the battery and the circuit breakers close to the battery have 13.8-14.5v. I have not checked the alternator, will check today, but it does seem like the alt is working. Somehow I am getting reduced voltage on the gauges in the dash and on the key. The boat is not tripping anymore, but I would still love to figure out what is causing it.

Thank you! I changed the circuit breaker since I thought it might have been toast from over heating. Tightened up anything and everything I could. The gauge is up from 10v to 12v when the boat is running. I will measure the voltage at the gauge today. We skied yesterday without the breaker tripping, so things definitely improved.

Hello,

 

Wondering if someone more skilled can help me understand/troubleshoot. Boat has been randomly shutting down. The is the key version so it does not have the main battery switch. When the boat shuts down, the ignition switch trips under the drivers feet. Also, it seems like the circuit breaker in the bow trips ( I believe this one trips first, then when reset the ignition trips, but not 100% sure if that's the same everytime). The circuit breaker in the bow had some loose wires and was getting hot, so those were tightened. We tightened the wires on the circuit breaker box too.

 

I am not sure if this is a weird coincidence, but the volt meter in the dash (gauge) has only been showing 10 - 11 volts. Not sure when that started. When tested the batt and alternator, both are working properly. Bad gauge or something is causing the wrong reading that is tripping the breakers? Any help is appreciated.

 

Thank you!

I am flying to Europe in two weeks and need to upgrade our boat. We used to use diacom for that before without issues. ZO won't send me the right file because they want me to purchase the cable that takes 6 weeks to build. (Good one ZO). So I can't get the right file nor I can get the cable to upgrade. Anyone out there selling a cable by any chance? Or willing to rent for the month of July?

 

Thanks,

@James thank you for the info! I need to find these sensors and will test. Both temp and fuel pressure are good based on gauges. The boat does not go into limp, seems to run fine, just check engine is on. Thanks!

Thank you guys, I will try the distributor cap and the oil sensor before I get a diacom or take it to the dealer. Was wondering about a faulty knock sensor too?! I heard that the oil pressure sensor does go bad.

After dewinterizing the boat and skiing a few times, the check engine comes on after about 2 passes. When the boat is turned off and on, it goes away again for about two passes before it comes back on. It did not used to happen last year. It is 08 196 with about 900 hours on. The boat runs the same after the light comes on. Checked fluids and the temp is fine. Anyone might have have an idea what could be causing it? I would prefer not having to buy diacom if I don't have to.

 

Thank you!

You can also get a new engine in your 196 with ZO as well as one of very affordable options.

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Wakeeye is out of stock, I'm interested in a used one as well.

@brucemaker wrap liner with 2 cuff buckles

@horton liners can make a huge difference. Thivk intuition liner. Adding 4th buckle makes a big difference too. I could never trick in reflex for that reason. Preferred FM for tricks which is much stiffer. Adding a plastic tongue should help too like @lpskier says.

I prefer softer for hands, stiffer for toes. I've seen many use soft for toes as well. Personal preference really whichever works better.

@MDB1056 @Bill22 The option 1 is definitely a slower because the tail rides deeper. If you go with longer/shallow set up the ski rides more horizontal and glides easier. Really a personal preference. I know about a few max 32mph skiers that like the ski a lot.

@bko I personally ride the CG fin right now quite further back than a regular fin in the same ski. It comes down to whatever works the best for you and the ski you are on. Sometimes we figure out better setup by errors.