paul

It will not work on a floating course

Just an update on how this works and to reply to @dan1166, the roller works very well but we have a shallow launch. You can feel when the boat gets on the roller and there is a lot less friction. So very worthwhile for our application but I agree, in a steep launch, it wouldn’t work nearly as well.

I’ve done a two part epoxy. Lasted well. The only areas that have Ben a problem were where we didn’t have continuous fiberglass mat coverage 

I unplugged mine with some vinegar

Some info here for you: 

these are the instructions I did up and updated after I updated my pucks

Zero Off GPS Puck Update Instructions.pdf

I didn’t remove the pucks from the boat - I just made a harness long enough that I could attach to the connectors in place - way easier than taking them off in my case (open bow). @jpwhit what did you change on ZeroOff after you updated the firmware in the pucks? I haven’t changed anything and it seems to be running great.

Just update you pucks with new software. I just did it and it works so much better now. Boat is rock solid. I was getting 8-10 satellites before but not usually in diff lock. Now it’s always on diff lock

I just loaded the new firmware onto our double pucks - much better! More satellites, always diff lock and the boat feels softer

We had a 2016 which had some of the issues you are describing. Got it warranted just in time. There is a guy on MC Team Talk that advertises fixing these screens. The GPS issue sounds like you need a GPS pick update. I am just about to do a 2014 SN 200 as we have flaky GPS at times.

4 hours ago, jpwhit said:

The slow starting on the 2014 - 2020 ProStars is because the battery is all the way in the back and the battery cables are very long. A higher CCA battery isn't going to improve it because the cables are the limiting factor, not the battery. I'm planed to move my battery in my 19 ProStar to the front, but I just haven't gotten to it yet. 

Agree with @jpwhit . After a year our battery started cranking slow with the 6.2L. I’d just put in thicker cables.

A few more pictures of different trailers with 200’s:

new 200 with Phoenix trailer

2022 200 Boatmate trailer

2012? Ramlin 200 trailer

and not super applicable but just for reference a 2022 Ski Nautique Boatmate Trailer:

Did this last fall and same as you couldn’t find any write ups so posted this on planet Nautique: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/diy-articles/659022-2014-pcm-zr409-6-0l-coolant-flush-diy-notes

On 1/7/2023 at 10:56 AM, Jtim3032 said:

Unfortunately following the position of the course dynamically involves putting at least 2 more receivers (the most expensive part of the system) out on the course itself, thus pretty much at least doubling the cost of the system. Furthermore, a lot of expensive tech lost when a boat/skier hits it 😕.

I hope to publish a few ideas on cross tethering methods over the next few weeks but I think the advent of GPS based BPMS has just highlighted that we have a lot to learn about how to better anchor floating courses going forward. Incidentally, wind induced problems can be seen on fixed anchor courses as well if the anchors are significantly deeper than about 10'. I know of at least one course in a 20+' depth lake where sub buoys are positioned 4' below the surface specifically to alleviate this problem. Also torpedo style boat guide buoys can be more prone to wind action if set too high in the water.

@Jtim3032Curious to hear your thoughts on cross tethering as I would love to get something working on our course

Since this was lost on the changeover and might help someone…

I’ve used the system on 3 different floating courses. 2 were RC type and one was a SS mainline with triangles and aluminum pipes - so no “EZ-Slalom” type courses - although I did survey one EZ slalom with it.

On the main course, I put anchors 90 degrees to the mainline at the 55’s and tried to pull the whole course sideways to take out the movement. It works sort of. If you don’t do this the course will move side to side from the boat wash and it’s fairly useless even in calm water.

However, it really dependent on how deep the water is. The main course I have tried is 25-30’ of water. The best success I’ve had is a course in 6-10’ of water. On that course, with no side anchors, it worked pretty well as long as you didn’t spin. With side anchors it would work even better.

Another RC course I tried it on had one end in 60’ of water and the other end in 20’. It was noticeably worse on the deeper end even though the course was really tight.

In summary, it will work on a floating course in shallow water but you have to go through a few steps and I would only try it on a SS mainline with aluminum arms as an “EZ slalom” would be too light. It will not work in the wind nor in tournaments. When there is a light breeze I get the new drivers to focus on there results at the gates and one ball as those are the most accurate.

I have been thinking about adding more anchors but it will start to get complicated and difficult to work on.

I’ve found that in one set I can have a new driver drive the course down the middle instead of favouring one side so it’s a great tool. And of course the surveying, especially jump setup is awesome. I am using SkiPath and not SurePath as we don’t have cell service at our site.

Agree with @Alberto Soares - I have yet to find a way to make it work with floating “rc capable” courses. I’ve added side anchors and I still get drift in wind. Amazing teaching and surveying tool though. Just need a way for it to follow the course and not assume where it is

Thought I'd detail the fix that we did to our trailer so that others have an easier time than we did.Boat: 2014 SN200, trailer 2016 Boatmate single axle

Background:When we purchased the boat it was evident that the front strakes were rubbing on the trailer. Searching around, including on this forum, there was a fix from Boatmate that included shimming the bunks and installing a roller infront of the fins. When we contacted our dealer who inturn contacted Boatmate, although they had installed this fix on other customers, they would not do anything for us and we couldn't even buy the parts from them to install it ourselves.See the other threads for more info:https://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/10455/trouble-getting-sn-200-on-trailerhttps://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/26254/ski-200-and-boatmate-trailers/p1https://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/21306/boat-mate-trailer-problems-ski-nautique-200-obhttps://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/23113/boatmate-trailers

Solution:With the help of @PatM , we designed the fix ourselves. Here's what we did:

Shim the bunks:

• we installed 3/4" UHMW shims (3"X3") between the bunks and their supports for each bunk supports except the very front supports. A total of 12 shims are required
• Our bunks were lagged in so we had to buy new 3/8" X 2.5" SS lag bolts. I was worried about the extra 1/4" of length into the bunk so we ground off 1/4" from the tip of the lag bolt. A total of 24 new lag bolts are required as there are 2 per shim
• we match drilled the UHMW with a 3/8" dia drill and then drilled the holes to 1/2" off the trailer

Roller:

• Attaching a roller to the trailer cross member wouldn't work for us as the fins come past the second cross member so we needed to make an adjustable frame for the roller as per the pictures in some of the other threads
• to measure, we loaded the boat onto the trailer all the way up with the shims installed. We measured the distance from the front cross member to the fins which was 39" I believe. For height we ran a string line on the top of the 1st and 2nd cross member. The distance from the string to the keel at the location of the roller was 5.25"
• We then reverse engineered the roller bracket from the pictures. I've included the fabrication drawings in the attachment. All you need to do is check the measurements and if they are close you can use this design which has all the parts
• the only deviation from the drawing is that we didn't end up using a 5/8" SS bolt to attach the roller. We purchased a roller shaft from Tie Down. Is zinc plated steel so hopefully it lasts. We got it long (15") and we will just cut it to size.
• To install, this weldment just needs to be welded on centerline, flush with the top of the cross members
• Our plan is to weld the tube onto the cross members with the boat off the trailer. We will then set the roller as low as it can go. The boat will then be loaded and the roller brought up to the bottom of the keel and nuts tightened. Then, the next time the boat is taken off the trailer, the roller will be raised 1/4" and the nuts tightened well.

Note: Pictures courtesy of others as we have yet to weld this onto the trailer

Thanks again to @PatM and let me know if you have any questions.

So tried to take my pucks off my 2014 SN OB today. No luck. The holes thru the hull (top deck) are smaller than the Deutsch connectors. So I either need to update the pucks in place or cut the wires and either recrimp the connectors or splice the cables back together. What have others done?

Does anyone know where to get the smaller foam bullets for boat guides? I have a set that was purchased from Skier2Skier awhile back. I skied on a course this year that had the same type but they were about half the size - way better for a portable.

Does anyone know where to get the smaller foam bullets for boat guides? I have a set that was purchased from Skier2Skier awhile back. I skied on a course this year that had the same type but they were about half the size - way better for a portable.

Yes we sink it at the end of every season. We designed it with extra rope at each end so that it actually makes jump setup easier as you can move the course backwards and forwards and not have to touch the jump. Shouldn’t be too bad aligning the course to the ramp if you leave the old buoys in and adjust compared to them or survey the location of your anchors. No problem keeping it there once the anchors are in

We have one. Works pretty well. It does move some in a crosswind etc but then likely the jump does too so not sure its too big of an issue. You could either keep the fixed buoys in while you are setting up and dropping the end anchors or survey the anchors in.