Omland

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I'm looking to order the Reflex Hardshell, I'm thinking white cuff. Curious about the sizing, it looks like largest size is 12? I generally wear a size 12 or 13 shoe. Do they run big or small? Also, what is the difference between the thick and thin liner and would would people generally recommend or would intuition liner be a bit better?

 

Thanks.

 

I'm thinking about buying a MOB and using a Reflex supershell. I have a couple questions on this. Is it possible to get just the supershell 2.0 boot and not the whole binding system from Reflex or if you wanted to do this would you buy the Flexible Hardshell white cuff boot from Reflex? I assume the whole binding system from Reflex is not necessary. Second question is if I use the MOB w/ a supershell for my front foot can I just get the R-style rear? Is there anything needed from MOB to use an R-style? Is there an advantage to using MOB w/ the R-style? I'm going to be moving from Stradas to this binding system, not sure if that matters but just wondering if there is a good hardshell system that is a good first step from Stradas to hardshell.

 

Thanks.

Broke both sides of my talus on an OTF even though I came out of bindings. I had to have both sides of my foot operated on, this was back in mid-July. I have made a ton of progress but am not walking "normal", have some residual swelling and some pain. At this rate I'm just hoping I can ski next summer.

Probably a dumb question but how do you release out of the r-style? does the liner slide out in a bad fall? It's not clearly answered on the product description page on the reflex site.

@mmosley899 thanks for the info, it's a good description and i'll spend a lot of time on your site learning more. Might have some more questions for you.

 

@Wish Agree. The day I got hurt I wasn't skiing good. I was failing to run a pass I had been running 80% of the time over the last 15 passes and I was frustrated. Should have just stopped but really I don't know what happened. I've never fallen like that before. I turned 3 ball, was late to 4 but not out of control. I made the edge change and next thing I knew my ankle was broken. That set I had a sensation of being too far forward, should have taken a break. Hard lesson learned.

I know this question has been asked before but I wonder if the info in the older threads is still accurate. I joined the ankle injury club this year. I had my first OTF in some time, and while I did fully come out of my strada bindings it was a little too late and I broke my ankle in two spots. Given all the extra time I now have since I can't ski and the fact I'll save a lot of money on gas I have been researching and thinking about buying a new binding system. My question is what is the safest setup?

 

In general I think this is the opinions I have read here:

Hardshell like Reflex -- good but requires you to stay on top of maintenance and testing the release and making sure you set it at the right level

Stradas -- requires you to make sure you don't over tighten the laces. I will say I'm well aware of this and never felt I was over tightening but obviously something happened. Maybe it's just my stradas but sometimes the tongue of the liner pops out and pushes against the laces and essentially tightens them.

OB4 -- Advantage is it releases in 4 directions? I assume same maintenance and testing of the release as a reflex?

There is no 100% safe system, if you ski you are going to run the risk of an ankle injury

 

My question on mechanical release systems like reflex or ob4 is what are the chances of a pre-release when you are crossing the wakes or something like that? When snow skiing I hate it if my bindings release when not needed and this would be scary waterskiing.

 

My question on the OB4 is if you mount strada bindings on the OB4s do you get both the mechanical release as well as the ability for the strada liners to release independently of the mechanical release?

@AdamCord @Than_Bogan @disland thanks for the input. I guess maybe I should spend some time tinkering with my fin this summer and get a copy of the fin whisperer book. I've been working off the idea that for most people you should put the fin at factory settings and forget it. It seems to be working for me but maybe it's time to play around a bit.

The biggest question I have on the Denali is if an average joe will be able to get the settings correct. I have very little, lets call it zero, experience fin tuning/setting a ski up. With my current ski (HO A3) I just got everything as close to factory as I could, actually Trent F. set my fin up. Its unlikely that I will get to a tournament or coaching opportunity with someone who knows how to dial in a ski. So given that how hard will it be for someone like me to dial in the Denali? Is it just a matter of filming sets, sending video and getting tips on what to do and then trying myself to make the adjustments?

Thanks @Horton, I look forward to the review. Also hope you get your hands on a Denali, would love that review.

 

@jimski I have the same concern. I'm not really into tweaking gear. I set my fin as close as I can to factory and leave it. I like my vapor boots because I know all I have to do is not over crank the laces but I'm curious about the performance gains one might get w/ a hard shell.

@Horton did you move completely to a hard shell setup or do you still use the radar bindings? I ask because my last ski purchase and binding purchase was driven by this site. As I consider a new setup I am thinking about hard shells and curious if you made the switch or even if you feel safe in hard shells you prefer the radar bindings for some reason.

While probably not popular I have to disagree with one aspect of Marcus Brown's post. I disagree with the statement: "if you’re one of those people that didn’t watch or didn’t like the US Open strictly because there were only 4 buoys, you are part of the problem."

 

For me the 4 buoy course was simply not as fun as watching on a 6 buoy course and therefore watching the US Open over the webcast was not as enjoyable. I hardly think this makes me part of the declining participation problem in the sport of competitive waterskiing. I would probably agree with that statement if it was more along the lines of you are part of the problem if you complain about 4 buoys while doing nothing to help put these events on. It's not fair to sit on the sidelines and complain, I'll agree with that and it's why I didn't complain. While I would prefer a 6 buoy course I can understand why organizers of these events may choose to do 4. I also think it's probably worth trying to see if it does boost participation or awareness.

 

 

Great meeting you @Rpc29. Glad you enjoyed skiing in MT. Inspired me to contact ballers for my trip down to CO next week.

I was inspired by a baller visiting our lake last night and thought I'd see if there are any ballers ant Laku Landing in Colorado? My in-laws live about 10 minutes from the lake and while I've been down there many times and driven to the lake I never thought about trying to ski a set. I'll be there next week and just thought I'd see if it might be possible to ski a set or 2. I'm good for gas, bad skiing and cold beers.

 

Thanks.

@303Skier what if anything did you do differently when skiing 35off? I ran my first 32off of the year yesterday, didn't get very far down course with 35. I generally don't really approach any of my passes differently, I just try and focus on the things I think I need to do to ski well. Curious on your thoughts.

Ok, I think I'm sold. My last set will be today so not much use in changing things up now but next year I think I will try and force myself to slow the boat down a bit at my harder passes and see if that helps me progress faster. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks @markchilcutt -- Beyond confidence do you feel slowing the boat down helps you learn the rope length faster? If so, what do you think you learn when the boat is slower?

I'm curious how others approach new line lengths. I've heard different opinions, one idea I've heard is reducing the speed a bit to get the "feel" and then working back up to full speed. I've always just skied new line lengths at full speed but wondering as you get into shorter line lengths if there is a smarter approach. For me personally as I've worked up the rope I don't really feel like I ski different or that the rope line "feels" different so I'm not sure reducing the speed of the boat buys me anything. If I want to work on technique I 'd just go down to one of my easier passes. What do others do?

Does anyone know of coaching options and contact information in or around Austin, TX?

FWIW, my first full ski season is ending today (possibly tomorrow). Total I'd say I have 1.5 seasons under my belt. I didn't get a full pass at 32 off but I did run 2 balls at 32 off and a handful of 28 off passes. I did it most by following the advice in this thread. I think if I had one more month I would get 32 off by just following this:

 

1. Ski with someone who runs 6 balls more than you

 

I'd say my ski partners have more knowledge and generally better technique. I try and watch what they do but I'd say only recently have I been able to identify good vs. bad technique unless it's really obvious. But in general I'm skiing with good skiers who are knowledgable.

 

2. Spend money on pro coaching before spending money on equipment

 

I did both. My ski was more than 5 years old (see #3) but I also spent time with pro's this summer. Not as much as I'd like but I think the 3 sessions I had helped a lot.

 

3. If your ski is more than 5 years old, it is time for a new one. If you can afford to ski, you can afford a new ski.

 

I got a whole new setup this year. Moved from an old CDX-1 with Animal bindings to an A3 w/ Strada. I know it's not wise to change everything at once but I did it on day 1 of my season, and FWIW I tied my PB.

 

4. Video yourself skiing

 

I didn't do this every day but I did it occasionally. I also didn't try and over analyze it. I just looked at what I was doing vs what I thought I was doing and tried to take 1 thing from the video.

 

5. Focus on basic technique. Work on one thing at a time for many rides at a time. If your boat crew comments on something different after each pass get ear plugs.

 

I generally had the same 3 things I wanted to do each pass. If I focused on doing these I skied well, when I didn't I skied poorly. They aren't yet second nature so I need to keep working. It is hard to block out all the other input at times but I try just to have my 3.

 

6. Most skiers who do not run 32 off do not have a good “stacked position”. “Stacked” is shoulders over hips and hips over feet. If you are not stacked almost anything else you work on is a waste of time and gas.

 

a. To be stacked is to have your back leg bent equal to or less than your front. The more you bend your back leg in relation to your front the weaker your position and the more weight is on your back foot. Some pro and elite skiers achieve this with a lot of forward knee bend with both legs. The bottom line is where your hips are in relation to your feet.

 

b. Personally I try to ski with relatively straight legs because I think it is the easiest way to move my hips over my bindings. 90% of all the coaching I give involves some version of “stand up”, “extend your legs” or “press both feet away from your body through the wakes”. There is nothing more important in skiing at this level than getting in and staying in a stacked position.

 

My "stack" is not great, the video helps me see that but it's getting better and I'm beginning to feel it.

 

The extend your back leg concept helped me but I am still confused on this vs comments from people saying you need to bend your knees. I don't exactly know what is correct, so generally I focus on extend leg before my pullout for gates and leave it at that.

 

7. Set your ski to stock or very near stock settings. Assuming that you are starting at stock, most fin and binding adjustments are a distraction and may mask real issues. If you are not centered on your ski (stacked) then are you adjusting from an incorrect vantage point. Ski adjusting is a science that few skiers at any level really understand.

 

I set the A3 up best I could for stock.

 

8. With new bindings you must always measure. The “middle hole” on your bindings may not be even close to the stock setting.

 

I probably need to relook at my setup but didn't want to change it mid season, will look at this over the winter.

 

9. Moving your bindings forward will not solve anything for a skier who rides back into the ball. Many stock binding positions are already slightly forward.

 

See #8

 

10. Don’t over ski. If you ski when you are not strong you are practicing bad habits.

 

I over skied for sure. It lead to being injured, not being able to ski strong and I'm sure bad habits. I always ski best after I rest a few days, this one is easier said than done.

Yes.

 

From Jodi Fisher I learned to work on my body alignment and get wider at the gates.

 

Parker Staver helped me with my edge change timing, initiating the turn earlier and had me drop my 15 off pass.

 

Focus on a couple of key items that help my skiing, don't try and focus on too much each pass.

 

Video helps me see what I'm actually doing vs. what I think I'm doing (I swear I look like Chris Parish until I see video).

 

Slow down early season, you don't have to PB on day 1, save the body a bit.

I voted bouys over technique but in reality it's a bit of both for me. For where my skiing is bouys are the motivator but in the back of my mind I know my technique needs work. I try every pass to focus on the things I think need work but I will progress to the next rope length even if my technique wasn't perfect.

2 balls short of my goal of running 28 off @ 36mph. I have turned 4 a few times and thought to myself "I got this", that was the last thought before I crashed.

Does anyone know the best way to contact HO about getting a new fin block for an A3? I submitted a question through their website nearly a week ago but haven't heard back.

 

 

@gregy yes, I ordered large kevlar liners and they still tear my hands up. I think the XL is just too large.