Boat set up

[Marco]

One of my ski partners just got a new CC 200, but it will be another 3 weeks before we can put it in the water.  I have seen a lot of discussion about proper set up, but I don't know the specifics of what that entails other than loading the rudder and setting up the speed control.  This is the first boat on our lake that has zero off, as well as our first CC with opposite prop rotation.  None of us on the lake have experience with either.

Any tips on setting up our new toy will be greatly appreciated.

[Old MS Accout]

Take your trim tab and turn it all the way to the right. 

Make sure you always have 200lbs or so in the boat when practicing to make up for the 2-3 man crew at tourneys.

The only speed control set up will be the Course GPS coords. You do not have to deal with any segment issues like Gazer.

    

[robscholl-OF]

Marco,

Amen to MS's comments.  I also check all wires and steering cable to make sure all the routing is clean and nothing is binding.  I would also see what, if anything, on your boat was installed by the dealer once it arrived on their lot.  Depending on the dealer and who they have setting up the boats, it can make a big difference.  I know that when RD's new MC comes in, he will go pick it up and set it up himself.  I know for a fact that his 2010 promo MC will be one of the sweetest skiing/driving boats because of his set-up and attention to detail. 

It can be little things like a kinked gas tank vent hose or fuel line that rears its ugly head at a tournament causing the boat to look bad.  I saw a new MC a couple of years ago with a loose pylon that effected the boat and caused it to be pulled from the tournament.  Also a MC that had a loose oil filter adapter causing it to dump all its oil into the bilge, also causing the boat to be pulled.  Another time a Malibu blew one of its cooling hoses.  Maybe not all of these can be avoided, but a good once over after you get the boat and then checking it over often the first 20 hours could catch a lot of little things that later make a boat look bad, but really have nothing to do with the actual boat, only those putting it together. 

I time and time again see one of our local promo boats come to tournament after tournament and never have any issues.  It seems to always be the boat left in the water when all the others have had a problem.  It is also the boat that the owner not only goes over his boat with a fine tooth comb, but takes the time to run it in all conditions and speeds to sort out any little problems before it leaves his lake and travels.  OF      

[Roger]

While I agree with moving the trim tab to the right, all the way may not be needed. It varies boat to boat. You want the boat to naturally turn left (right trim tab = left turn) if you let go of the wheel. How much is driver preference. I like enough that some upward pressure is needed on the wheel to drive straight with no skier, but not so much that my arm is worn out after pulling a segment at a tournament. Not enough torque = trouble with tracking, too much torque = trouble with fatigue.

I regularly pull skiers into 39 and 41 off and I like some torque on the wheel. I would classify the amount I like as "medium". There is at least one top driver at our site that likes "firm." I can drive a straight path that feels good to the skiers with either setup, my arm is just more tired with the firm setup. If you have too light a setup, it will be nearly impossible to drive a straight path with serious shortline skiers.

[Old MS Accout]

On my last 8 196s, I always took the trim all the way right. There is not much space for play there as you might have a 1/4 inch of total movement. Just make sure you have no play in the wheel while under tow.

This might be a duh but make sure the fresh water intake valuve is open. A promo guy fried his engine on day 1 when he failed to make sure it was open.

   

[jdarwin]

We put 50lbs in the nose on the LXI's, 196's and 197's - don't know if it is needed in the 200.  Helps tracking.

[Marco]

Thanks guys.  All good points.  It sounds like from a drivability standpoint, properly adjusting the trim tab and boat weighting are the primary items, and a good mechanical once over, which we typically do every spring and at intervals throughout the summer, is the other main component.

I was checking out the hull and especially the chines on the 200 for the first time the other day, and boy, are they different from the norm, with square corners and flat spots instead of softer, rounded transitions. Waaay different from any hull I've seen before.  Can't wait to see it in action (from behind).

[Andre]

Are Nautiques still reverse rotation,backing to the left?

[Ed_Johnson]

Andre,

Yes they are. The reason for this is that the rotation of the prop helps the boat to stay level with just a driver and no passenger...ED

Marco,

Could you please give us a report on what you think after you ski behind the 200.

Thanks, ED

[Marco]

Ed,

Will do.  It will not be until the end of April before I get a chance to ski behind it, however.  Our lake is fairly shallow, and we lose some water over the winter when the supply to the lake is turned off.  We get water again in early to mid April, and it ususally takes about 2 weeks to fill it back up.

[east tx skier]

I'm so glad I read this.  I got a tabbed rudder for my 98 SN last year and brain farted on the direction.  I've had it hard left and have been wondering why I can't get it to pull!  I usually have things like this worked out well before April. 

[lpskier]

Add a subwoofer.