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Gloersen
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...the abuse if anyone cares to comment.

 

1.) Yes, could get up on the boat further prior to gate transition, but having switched to visuals described by @razorskier; gates have become more consistent despite not getting as wide on the edge-out.

 

2.) Virtually no lean coming out of the heelside buoy which presumably results from not having the chest/shoulders back & away from the handle past the 2nd wake into the reach. How is this remedied? Getting more agressive just results in pulling myself up even more.

 

 

 

 

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Consistent visuals is a good thing...and razor1 is a technician so good to pay attention to his advice...I sure do. Looks like you drift inward from a spot that was not wide enough on your gate pull out. After you drift in giving up width, then you try to establish some angle that is not then established til the wash.

I would say give a little more to the gate pull out and establish a wider line. It feels more comfortable to be narrow so you are going to have to push your comfort zone a little, but the more you do it, the more natural it will feel. Others may disagree and I don't have it all figured out...but that's my two cents.

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First of all, great skiing! And in a dry suit too!! ! I agree the gate is narrow and even though you get decent angle with your narrow gate, it's costing you width at one and subsequently throughout the pass. You should consider getting your arm up out of the water and towards the pylon at at 1,3,5. It may help you slow that turn down enough to finish it and get better angle to 2,4,6. That turn seems rushed or led with your upper body, and you appear to be riding the tail back to 2,4,6 as a result.
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I believe your pull out needs to be a tad more aggresive on your Lean and on the length (distance)of your Lean. You are giving up approx: 1/2 second of Lean and giving it to your Glide. Which makes your Glide at least a 1/2 sec. longer then it needs to be. This is costing you both Speed and Width. -which is Killing your Gate shot...

 

#2. You have developed a Horrible habitual Handle Dunk at 1-3-5. I say habitual b/c you are not just gently caressing the water sometimes, you are at times actively & forcibly punching the water, even at times when you really don't need the crutch. It appears to be an ingrained habit. I say horrible b/c it is like a road to nowhere...

 

Generally, Skiers will dunk when they are narrow and late. B/c of their Body positioning, they tend to almost "Slide into 3rd Base" while going around the Ball. This is from being out of position and off Balance.... Even when running Narrow and Late, you must (more then ever) keep your Hips up, Chest out, Head/Vision UP in order to avoid losing your balance, COM back, Ski out in front and "Sliding into 3rd"... -your 1-3-5 turns right now are "Re-active" and they need to be "Pro-active"

 

Good job in March though! At least you are out on the water! Most of us are still sitting around 'bout to go all Jack Nicholson!

 

HONEY, I'MMMMMMMMMMM HOME... ;-D

 

 

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thanks all for the replies; good advice!

 

@Bruce_Butterfield - much appreciated. Was edging out nearly pylon width last summer but having difficulty maintaining line tension; too much load on initiation and since reverted to too many visual cues and subsequently narrow. Today back to looking at the driver and trying to low load edge out until mid-motor box, try to keep the handle in tight, then roll in. Just 28's today, work in progress, but pylon width with a tight line the goal.The ease of the passes was substantial; the space at 1B & automatically the pass is is in the bag. There's an old-time skier here at Victory, not in particularly good shape anymore, skis 1 set 3x/week, runs 35 all the time, 38 50% of the time, says "get up on the boat wide and backside 1 ball dude and the pass is is in the bag"; he may be right.

 

@h2oskidawg - - yes, you're correct. It results from a lack of good lean, handle connection, and lack of chest back away from the handle past the second wake. Upper body comes up, in and over to the inside, can't reach & counter well when that occurs. Like AM states when speed is sensed one needs to do more, not less.

 

Work in progress. Tired of this drysuit crap 65/65 just too cool to skin it.

 

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@matthewbrown - concur, always have struggled riding the ski balanced, tend to excessively bend the rear leg & a relatively straight left leg. Need to use video consistently to implement fundamental changes.

 

67" A3 - Reflex 29.5"/Wiley 18", 2.505/6.837/.775/9w (dft typo edited)

 

Thanks for posting that vid to evaluate; you're making that green ski look good.

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@gloersen, I would like to see you pull your right shoulder back a little going into 135 and left on 246. Do this by keeping your elbow bent and think pulling a weed whacker cord or pulling a now and arrow, shoulder up and hand at waist. When the ski turns then rotate upper body and be aggressive and attack the first wake. This would carry you into the middle in good position. Notice Matthew slightly pulling back his left hand on 246. His 135 is so solid it isnt needed too much.

 

When you close your chest to the ball in the preturn, the ski dies and stops.

 

Much better on not dropping your head. With a little counter, should be even better and better angle out.

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@matthewbrown - thanks for the fin tips, dft is .775 (typo corrected) will try 6.850 to see if it helps with balance and more wetted ski. At one point .770/6.848/2.507/8 was decent but migrated to current due to often over-turning the offside and sluggish 1B. With a pylon wide-more lean/balance gate maybe the longer fin can be appreciated.

 

So now just

 

1. Wide, efficient edge-out

 

2. Maintain handle tight/line tension at pylon width.

 

3. Unweight the ski, lower the handle, soften knees, take the weight off back foot.

 

4. Get stacked out wide, handle on the left thigh above the knee, athletic/balanced stance, chest up/shoulder back way from the handle, don’t give anything up heading into the wakes.

 

5. Trust the left/trailing arm core connection, keep the knees soft and create that “swing” effect at centerline; do not separate from the handle maintain “handle control”; the RevC happens. Keep the handle low.

 

6. Hide the back shoulder, shoot the ”arrow”, reach ear height with the “bow”, Fosbury flop 1B.

 

7. Trust the right/trailing arm connection, keep the handle level, low and tight over the left inner thigh above the knee, aggressive athletic stance, chest up/shoulder back from the handle, maintain core connection into centerline, create “swing”, repeat mirror image.

 

8. At least a dozen other things.

 

With about 2.8 seconds/path and a 50m/s neural impulse loop speed; should be able to accommodate about 140 cognitive functions from hook-up to apex. Right?

 

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Does someone have cake??

 

@matthewbrown, if you use the jaws end or "head" of a normal caliper, that is what some call the "heads" method. If you have a slot caliper, it obviously drops in the slot cut into the head. There is about a .030" difference in the two. That got me off on a not so good start using Rossi settings last year. He uses a slot caliper, and I don't have one, yet.

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When I actually skied for a purpose, I wrote down 3 or 4 things that I was working on and wanted to pound into my head each time I got on the water. Or else, I would just go out and be happy to be skiing and forget about it. Gotta have fun too, but have to think to improve..
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