ZO Rev R Upgrade .MOT file

[A_B]

I was sent a .MOT file for upgrading my ZO to Rev R.

How do I open this up?

 

It seems like it is some type of compressed file, and the .EXE file must be buried inside it.

 

Thanks

[ForrestGump]

You don't open it. If it's for a Team 200 you put it on a thumb drive and plug it into usb port to left of steering wheel. If it's any other boat you need the aquastar display software on your laptop connected to the diag port on the engine. You import the mot file using that.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@AB

 

I have the aquastar display software if you want it as well as the detailed instructions. You can call Timmy @ innovation controls (ZO) and get it from him. Call Timmy @ Nine one eight three one seven four one one nine.

 

I borrowed the Econ connector from another Baller and upgraded mine yesterday, really easy to do. You need to remap all your courses once the upgrade is installed.

[A_B]

A friend has a cable. Freddy sent me the MOT file with a password, and this is for our 2007 SN.

 

So I run The Aquastar display software, while hooked up to the motor with the cable?

Will the MOT file load then?

 

Sorry to be so non-tech, but I tried to unzip it, etc., I thought it would be some sort of launch file so just load it up.

[ForrestGump]

You'll also need the latest firmware file or the cable from the zo website.

 

1. Load firmware file to laptop

2. Write down serial number of zo from diag screen

3. Connect cable to laptop and diag port at top front driver side of engine

4. Run aquastar

5. Input password and serial number into aquastar

6. Choose correct mot file

7. Choose overwrite file

[A_B]

I seem to be striking out. I went to www.cancapture and it gives me an out of memory error, so I cannot download the Aquastar program.

 

I went to ZO and don't see any file downloads, only the Revision request form, which I have already submitted, and received my MOT file back, with password/key.

 

Glad it is pouring rain right now.

 

Am I dense or what?

[A_B]

This is the Aquastar pdf that I am working off of.

Note, I changed it to https and it got into website.

[MISkier]

I think you need to program that @Chuck_Dickey has. The .MOT file is only data and configuration information that the program uses to update ZO. It seems you are missing the actual executable software for your laptop. Unless you were sent a second file from ZO that has a setup.exe file in it, you need to get the laptop software from someone.

 

I said it before and I will say it again: it would be easier to get missile launch codes than to obtain the proper cable and necessary upgrade components for ZO.

 

I had the dealer update mine in April. They have the $1200 cable and Diacom software kit that is used for all sorts of ECM programming. It can also update ZO. I paid $47.50 for the dealer to do the update and it took 20 minutes. The drive took 3 hours round trip.

[A_B]

I would burn more gas than that running up to Silver Spray. My friend has the cable, so wanted to try to take advantage of that if I could. I think I can remove the display head and just take that up to them, but I have heard that is a pain.

[A_B]

I will call and get the Aquastar program. It can't be downloaded off the internet as far as I can tell.

 

I agree that this is more of a hassle than what it should be.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@AB

 

You need to call Timmy @ innovation controls (ZO) and get it from him. Call Timmy @ Nine one eight three one seven four one one nine.

 

He'll email you everything you need. Your .mot file is password required and each one is different, you can't use one from another boat.

 

Timmy will issue you a PW that matches your ZO system and display. He'll need your display part number and serial number of ZO from the diagnostic screen.

 

If you are using an Econ cable it is different than www.cancapture. Timmiy will send you the correct files. It is really easy to upgrade if you do it right.

[A_B]

Ok, I will find out what cable my friend has. He may have no idea though!

[LeonL]

To the best of my knowledge, if the cable fits connector at the front driver side if the engine you have the Econ cable. It seems that what you are lacking is the AquaStar software. You should be able to download it directly from the ZeroOff website. Go to the downloads page. I'll look it up and edit this comment in just a few minutes. OK, @AB got to zerogps.com and search for AquaStar using their search box. You should get a result that describes RevR. Click on that and you should be taken to a screen that has several downloads, one of which is a AquaStar software zip file. Just download that and install on our laptop. Also go the the download screen on their homepage and look for the PDF file that gives step by step instructions on using AquaStar. I'm pretty computer illiterate, but it went pretty easy for me on my '08 196. I also did a '10 200 and did the same way I did my boat. Didn't use a thumb drive like @ShaneH said. @ShaneH, does this only apply to ZeroOff within LINC?

[A_B]

Thanks Leon, I will look when I get home. I would guess you can tell it the location of the MOT file, so it could reside on your pc or memory stick.

 

Why don't they have a quick overview and link to all the stuff you need?

 

Yes,,it is an Econ cable.

 

Thanks!

[Ed_Johnson]

@AB....When you get it installed, and being a +200 # skier like me, try A1+....I use to be a C2 skier, however, the Plus really changes things....A1+ feels a lot like PP did...Gives you a little more time to hook-up without nailing your butt, and shuts off quick, so your not carrying to much speed into the buoy...The C+ positions make it hard to get rid of speed.

[A_B]

Thanks for the pointer Ed.

I am a C2 skier so will be good to try.

[MISkier]

@LeonL, how in the world did you know about the method to access that Aquastar download? The Zero Off site is not targeted toward ease of use and I would basically call that page of Rev R downloads hidden, for all practical purposes.

[Ed_Johnson]

I believe it was posted on here months a go..I know I used it to upgrade mine.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@AB

 

https://www.zerogps.com/rev-r-software-update

[A_B]

I downloaded the AS software and unzipped it.

I tried to open each file, not hooked up to boat, but they didn't seem to open. I also downloaded the user guide, which I need to read.

 

Will try to do this tomorrow.

 

Thanks.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@AB

 

Rev. R Change log - PDF (279 KB) - This is a PDF instruction sheet

 

Aquastar Display Software - ZIP (6 MB)

 

- This is a zip file that includes a setup file to install the Aquastar Display program on your Windows based computer. Once installed, follow the instructions on "Using the Aquastar Display Software PDF. Make sure you have the .mot file from Timmy @ ZO that matches your boat along with the password he gives you or the program will not load.

 

The Zip file includes these files;

 

Aquastar Display.msi

DistFile.cab

Driver_Setup_V3.1.0.15.exe

instmsi.exe

instmsiw.exe

setup.exe <<<<

setup.ini

 

Using Aquastar Display Software - PDF (211 KB) - This is a PDF instruction sheet

 

Diacom Diagnostic Scan Tool.pdf - PDF (297 KB) - You don't need this if you have an Econ connector

 

 

[LeonL]

@MISkier, I guess I stumbled on it. Really, as is stated above,my boat is an '08, so I've upgraded from P to Q and now to R. I had a version of AquaStar, but downloaded it again in case it had changed. I forgot to mention that a driver is needed. @AB, Timmy should have included a link to that as well.

[ral]

@ShaneH, the USB is for which 200s?

[ForrestGump]

@ral Only boats with the Linc or Linc2 display have the usb port so you can upload firmware files. The USB port is connected to the display(which in itself is a computer) which is an end point on the canbus network.

[ral]

@ShaneH, thanks, I was starting to write my complaint to Nautique...

[A_B]

Rev R installed. Now need my prop that I let my friend borrow to test his boat out with, and give it a go.

 

Do all the number settings still work, or is it just A, B, or C, when the + is selected? A ski friend heard that the numbers don't work with the +.

 

Thanks for all the informative posts.

[MISkier]

@AB,

 

I was told the plus setting applies to the numbers as well. So, you now get 18 settings (A1 through C3 and A1+ through C3+). I've only tried C2+. I've seen a few posts where skiers are selecting one less letter and/or number from their regular setting and adding the +. I'm not sure why they are doing that, because the + is only supposed to affect the gate and 1 ball. So, they are opting to change the setting for the 5 remaining balls without any adjustment from the +. Hope it works for you.

 

The chart in the ZeroOffRevR .pdf from the ZO site shows the affects of the plus for both letter and number, implying the 1,2, and 3 still mean something.

 

 

[MISkier]

OK, after actually reading the ZO chart more closely, I am of the opinion that the + does not just affect the gate. So, altering your letter and number selection when adding the + would seem to affect the entire pass. The speed at the gate is the first (and possibly most noticeable) difference you feel, along with an easier hook up from one ball. But, with the changed Kd and clipping values for all the letters and numbers with the +, it must also alter the dynamics of the rest of the pass. So, I retract my questioning of a skier changing their usual letter/number combination when using the +. The entire pull is different with the +.

[A_B]

For anyone else looking to do this, and if you have never used Aqua Star software, you need 4 basic things:

 

Econ Cable

Aquastar Software comes in a Zip file. Need to unzip and run setup program.

Need MOT file on your pc or thumb drive. ZO will send you this along with password (like a software key).

Need Econ cable driver installed on your pc. I missed this step and then didnt work a few tries.

 

ZO will provide an instruction sheet, but it wasn't the easiest thing to visualize, and some downloads, like the cable driver, didnt work the first couple tries. Maybe I fat fingered the user ID or password...or my virus protection was over zealous.

 

Once all software in place, took about 3 minutes to load.

[Chuck_Dickey]

@AB

 

YOU'll need to remap all your courses due to the over writing of the old data.

[A_B]

Chuck, yep, saw that in literature, and noticed our course was gone in the mapping list.

Thanks for the help. Just need to get my prop back and a break in the rain!

[eleeski]

Bumping this thread because the Rev S upgrades are so similar and the info here is relevant.

 

I totally blew it. Doug Moss was at Imperial on Sunday. He probably had to drive right by my lake to get home. I should have had him do the Rev S upgrade for me...

 

Instead, I borrowed the cable from @Not_The_Pug . I downloaded the upgrade files at the office where I have good internet. .mot file wouldn't open. Followed the directions on this thread to:

Download the file sent by ZO

Go to ZO website and find the Aquastar download

Download it twice (had to unzip it)

Call ZO because my serial number didn't work (it is the last 4 or 5 digits of the serial number after the space and zeros)

Get a callback in less than 5 minutes from Timmy (ZO has certainly addressed customer service issues from the past - great service , thanks Timmy!)

Got everything ready at the office (including a second password for the Mastercraft - you need a separate password for each boat you are upgrading, again thanks Timmy)

 

Out at the lake, I'm ready to install. Found the plug on the engine for the American Skier without too much searching. Plugged it in but still got the failure to connect error. Messed with it for a frustrating while. Shut everything down to take a quick break, turned on the boat ignition and rebooted everything and it worked perfectly this time. Actually, it was ridiculously easy and I felt kind of stupid for it taking so long to complete. But now the American Skier display says Rev S! Now I need to get the trailer a new tire so I can launch it.

 

On to the Mastercraft. Mine is the last year of the Indmar engine so things are not exactly where the new boat would have them. Plus, it's a bit dark in the boathouse so finding the plug was a real struggle. Not really but it took me a long time to find it hidden clipped to a dummy plug on the side of the ECM. Doug would have found it in a minute - but at least I got decent lighting set up. The programming was straightforward - I quickly reset everything when I bumped the USB plug out so it transferred easily. Note that I had to use the OVERRIDE password to get this one to load but the ZO instructions had warned of this possibility so I was ready. ZO says Rev S on the display on the lift in the boathouse! I would have felt good if I hadn't wasted an hour finding the plug.

 

Since everything was apart for this, I decided to fix the fuel gauge (why is the panel nylocked in place so it's impossible to remove?). The stock MC fuel gauge is terrible and hasn't worked for a couple years. Replacement with a new, non integrated fuel gauge seemed the best solution. There's a special place in hell for boat builders who don't build in conduits for items that have to go from the dash to the back of the boat (steering cables, wiring replacements, bilge pump hoses, etc.). Finding a way to get the new wires to the fuel tank was a huge process involving blood, sweat and tears. Finally got everything hooked up (my size large hands were not an asset). The fuel gauge was dead! Add 5 gallons and it was just off the peg. Phew! I've been asking people who ski with me not to bring gas for a while to get the tank to empty. Now, gas would be helpful.

 

Test drive time. ZO was good. I didn't have to remap. Acquired quickly and seemed to give stable speeds. Sweet!

 

But why aren't my gauges working? I did splice into the old fuel gauge wires for power, ground and lights. Maybe the old gauge needs to be in place - so I rewire it back in. Still dead. Maybe it's the lights? Yep, something in the light circuit confuses the gauge controller. So I can't see how much gas I have while skiing at night - big deal. Temp, oil and RPM are there.

 

Now it's time to deal with the spaghetti of wires for the new antenna. First, pull out the old pucks. Easier said than done. Peel up the old puck, OK. Some carb cleaner got the residual sticky off. Next, judicious use of a hammer and chisel broke out the cable penetration - fortunately the heat, sun and time weakened the plastic. Doug probably would have just unscrewed it. After clipping the tie wrap that was impossible to reach, the old puck was out. Lucky me, it was the good one so Stan has a backup if his old style pucks fail. Fish the new wire through the right size hole and the new antenna is placed. The old one is there for decoration. Put all the panels back together and I'm done!

 

That's a full hard day I won't get back...

 

I hope I enjoy Rev S.

 

Eric

[eleeski]

Rev S...

 

My normal slalom setting is C3. I like a solid pull and quick response to any speed deviation. C3 feels good to me.

 

I started at C2+ as recommended by @Ed_Johnson . There's potential but my body and skills weren't up to it.

 

C3+ felt more like the C3 I'm used to but it hit me really hard. If I was able to handle the energy, I had too much speed into the buoy. I struggled.

 

The conversion to the single puck improved the speed stability and response consistency for tricks. Since I was down to one intermittent old style puck, the conversion was needed and the performance improvement was expected for the MC 197.

 

But it needed to be tested on the American Skier as well.

 

Hmmm...

 

The American Skier is a tiny light boat with an altitude prop and a big strong engine. Normal old ZO on this boat might have some + feel. C3+ way overpowered me. Normal C3 felt noticeably easier.

 

I think I will stick with my old C3 setting.

 

Note that the differences were subtle and I'm sure I could have adapted with more strength or time to get used to it. Might even help in the long run as a couple of turns went really well and put me ahead.

 

Also I used my ski buddies as guinea pigs and pulled them at 28mph and C3+. They didn't notice and seemed to improve nicely.

 

Rev S isn't magic for me but it's nice to have another option. And upgraded GPS.

 

Eric

[DanE]

@eleeski Maybe you could ask ZO for a C4++ setting?

How else can you tell if you've hit the ceiling??

[Ed_Johnson]

@eleeski ... I am not surprised at what you experienced. The Plus settings are good for the 200lb and over Guys. Gives the bigger Guys afterburner and can even the playing field against the lighter skinny Guys.

 

My main ski partner, Zack, is 6'@165lbs. Skis C2 into 39.... C2+ was way to strong for him behind my C200 6L. My other ski partner has a 17 C200 5.7 Rev R...Interestingly, Zack says he can feel the difference in C2 with Rev R vs S. He says S picks him up better and releases him better than Rev R. Also, all his PB's have been set behind my boat with Rev S.

Currently 5.5@39.

 

Point being, you will like Rev S over R at the same exact setting. It tracks a lot more satellites, responds quicker, and should feel slightly smoother.

 

 

[eleeski]

@DanE The ceiling has already hit me!

 

@Ed_Johnson Agree with the better quality pull with my single upgraded puck and Rev S running the same settings. But the MC ZO was getting sketchy with one failed and disconnected puck and the other that occasionally did weird things. These problems were recent - the old Rev R ZO used to feel great a few years ago (when I was skiing well enough to have it make a difference). The new single puck and Rev S felt perfect for tricks - but you only notice when something goes wrong (I did notice the puck problems).

 

The Rev S plus setting is very noticeable in slalom. I might learn to like it. The C2+ was an interesting feel that worked really well when my technique was good but was very unforgiving of any mistakes or laziness. C3+ was a possibility for the MC but way too hard for the American Skier. Someday I'll have to try A1+.

 

Good on ZO for doing the upgrade and the good customer service to make it happen. A problem was resolved and choices that some skiers love were added. Thanks!

 

Eric

[BlueSki]

For anyone doing the upgrade to single puck and Rev S, Freddy Krueger has made it easy. He put two instructional videos on you tube that should just about cover anything that you need. I found them to be tremendously helpful.

 

 

[eleeski]

I wish I'd watched before doing my upgrade. Great videos from Freddy.

 

Thanks for the links @BlueSki

 

Eric

[BlueSki]

Hopefully others find them helpful. My first look at the bird’s nest of wires under the dash made me skeptical about making the change. Things were easy after watching the videos. The only thing that was unpleasant was making the hole in the deck bigger to accommodate the puck’s wiring harness plug.