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Hooking up a jump switch to a Carbon Pro


paul
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Anybody here hooked up a jump switch to a Carbon Pro? There is a female connector in the bilge where I am used to seeing them (just ahead of the engine). However, instead of being a two wire connector, this connector (flat packard style) is a 4 wire connector but it only has three wires going to it. Thoughts? I checked at the dash and there definitely are two wires plugged into the jump switch connector near the display (yellow/blue black/green wires). Unfortunately the wires are connected to other wires in spot which I couldn't see as it was buried. Boat is a 2012 Carbon Pro.

 

Thx

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Here's a pic of the connector in the bilge and the connector behind the dash. I tried checking resistivity and each wire was about 1-3 M ohms. So definitely not a direct connection. Thoughts? As far as I can tell this is the only connection in the bilge area...aj06gcpnbskw.jpeg

louwvm71x3wq.jpeg

 

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Paul the first photo is not of a jump switch end connector. the second looks like the connector that is on the zo-harness side. might want to dig a little deeper in the bilge for the switch end connector.
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@Jody_Seal - yes the second picture is of the ZO side (behind the dash). As mentioned in the first post, these wires go into the duct to go to the bilge and they are connected to different wires in a spot that I can't see (but I can feel). I have looked very hard in the bilge (drain plug area, bilge pump area, etc) and I can't find where these wires come out.

 

@Horton @Sledgehammer - you guys with Carbon Pro experience have any suggestions? Does anyone have a technical contact @ Fineline that I get contact?

 

Thx,

 

Paul

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When Jeff's boat arrived there was an extension site that we had to plug in behind the dash to the connector you found and then run down through the seat and out a hole they had made in the front of the seat for it.

 

I suspect that since you don't have a new boat that this extension has gone missing. I bet you could just elongate the harness from either end since you know enough to own a multimeter

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I hope you don't need whatever that connector in your bilge was for. I'd clean it up with some alcohol, cake it in dielectric grease and rubber band a baggie or balloon around it. That connector looks like it is already nearly junk.
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@Edbrazil

So in your vast experience of speed control development why does the switch need to go ?

In our devolpment We have found that it is an inexpensive tool that stream lines the jump control process and helps make skier input react to the dynamic influences of the boat predictable. So far even though the switch is a bit pricey yet it still is far cheaper then that of a proximity sensor, strain gauge or whatever electronic sensor one can in vision.

If a million units were sold each year I would assume that a system with out a switch could be had, But! Alas only about 750 (maybe) units are installed and probably less then 20% are utilized for jump.

So to engineer a high end DBW control is not a low cost endeavor for such low unit sales, we are lucky to have what we got for the price that it cost.

 

 

 

@paul

I would see if I could not pull out the cable from the dash end and see what come through. The re run it utilizing the shift cable perfect pass trick!

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thanks gents for the feedback. I tried pulling on the cable to see if I could remove it and it is clamped near where the different wires are crimped on. I am hoping that Fineline is able to point me in the right direction since they obviously ran some wires for a certain distance but failing that I will have to run a new cable thru the bilge - getting the proper connectors will be the hardest part as suggested.

 

And yes the existing female connector in the bilge has seen better days. I am not sure why manufacturers leave the ends of cables unprotected in bilges (have seen this on Nautiques as well)

 

@Jody_Seal - not familiar with the shift cable perfect pass trick - can you elaborate?

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Yep , un hook your shift cable from the transmission and where it goes under the floor tape a chase rope or heavy string to the cable. Then pull cable forward until taped rope can be untapped after it comes up through the floor. then Pull the cable back and re attach to the transmission . Now you have a pull string to attach to your new jump switch wire and pull it under the floor.
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@jody_seal: Back when I was a Senior Driver, drivers actually drove boats, and were not

button-pushers. The whole speed control deal comes from the failed attempt to make

our sport acceptable for the Olympics. The jump switch maybe makes the system

respond a hair faster, but depends on things like the thickness of the towline, and a

cheap microswitch.

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@Edbrazil

Speed control is probably the best marriage counselor ever developed. I too drove by hand back before speed control. learned from the best, John Goodman, Skip Dunlap, Less Todd and a few others however there is not a skier out their that would trade the consistency of modern speed control over hand driving. in Fact last night I was just watching the 1981 Masters slalom final where Carl Roberge won on a re-ride due to slow boat time, in the same final Mike Morgan had to reride his opening pass due to slow boat time...

Nope sorry we now have consistency, predictable and reliability that we never had with hand driving.

The only problem we have now with control is that it is now tailored around those that engineer the programs.

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Found it!! The cable got pushed to the front of the boat somehow as it was not tie wrapped to the rest of the cables. I used a light and a mirror to look up the port that is used to access the bilge pump under the front seat.

 

Weirdly, the wires went from yellow w blue stripe and black with green stripe (zero off std) to solid yellow and solid green and then back to the zero off striped colors. No idea why.

 

The molex connector on the end was corroded from sitting in the bilge water and pulled right out. I'll replace that connector with a weather pack and we should be back in business.

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