Ray

The scroll down for update was a great feature. Not sure if it's linked to the update or not.

or better, build and tow your dock 🙂:

If you mean the retractable part is loose, I had the same issue last week with the rope getting caught in cleat all the time. If your cleat design is similar to an early 2000 Malibu, it's a simple fix. Unscrew the phillips rounded head screws that are holding the cleat from the back and bend the washer tabs outward to create more friction. Reinstall and enjoy. If the whole cleat is loose, just tighten the large hex nuts. Here's a back view pic:

Bought my 515 last year from PocoMarine in BC, best deal I found within Canada and they were great to do business with. 664$ CAD: https://www.pocomarine.com/shop/acme-422-propeller-12-5-x-15-5x1-rh-4-blade/ There is also one used from a boat dealer in Quebec, 260$ CAD: https://pomerleaulesbateaux.com/en-CA/accessories/acme-4320181010/

@APB, May I ask how much did you pay for your cover and the lead time?

Protect your letters with 3m 471 vinyl tape, carefully cut the external profile with an exacto pointing toward the side of the letters, not the hull. ->Took me more than one day for 3 large Malibu stickers. Wet sand in between letters and use your small rotary buffer or a large one at an angle with light pressure to avoid heating the tape too much. For my project, the tape lasted for 4 wet sanding and 3 compound/polishing steps.

It's not a direct answer, but I've successfully used a ski boot stretcher for my girlfriend with the new Pulse. She was loose in a men's size 7-8 but her big toe was hitting the front with a size 5-6; molding the liner was not enough. Some iterations between heating ( <~70°C) and increasing the stretcher pressure created the required space. Most ski and skate shops have stretcher machines.

Another question that is unclear for me is the relationship between the starting "softness" and longevity. Does a rope with a higher modulus keep its small elastic behavior longer (more sets) than a lower modulus rope? In other words, at what rate does each rope type reach the end of life and become dead?

Fyi most brochures are available online, might be useful: https://correctcraftfan.com/reference/brochures.asp

@03RLXi Clean solution but what about engine hours, depth finder, water and air temperature provided by MMDC? The tach option gives you an hourmeter and the paddle wheel thermocouple can be wired back to PP for water temperature display. It would be nice if Ron's tach could also display depth.

@DkLkSkr Yes. Personal choice, but my rationale was that it bears no load, glue excess would be difficult to remove and it might not sustain a second surgery using high strength glue.

@S1Pitts Amazon, search for "168 gm stepper motors" This is what I bought, but they are unavailable at the moment. Dromedary 6 GM GMC Stepper Motor

I hope my memory serves me right... Symptoms: Some gauge needles don't cycle anymore when energized. 1. Disconnect and remove gauge. 2. Remove the bezel with care. 3. Take out the lens. That's a challenge. Using a razor blade slowly around the lens next to the case flange, a bit of heat can help. The case will probably be brittle, and you'll need to be really gentle. 4. Use tape to mark the position of the four needles at home position (can't remember whether it was clockwise or counterclockwise). 5. Take out the needles and the gauge background. 6. Unsolder the main connection point. Now you have the board in your hands. 7. Unsolder the stepper motors (it makes more sense to change them all if you have reached this point). 8. Remove all the solder with a vacuum tool (important). 9. Resolder the new stepper motors with the least amount of heat. 10. Solder the board into the casing. 11. Put the background and needles back on. 12. Seal the lense with silicone, reinstall gauge.