Send ski back to Goode for insert replacement?

[wawaskr]

Has anyone had experience sending ski back to Goode to have an insert replaced? If so, were you satisfied with the work?

[OldboyII]

Is this question about insert or about Goode customer service?

[wawaskr]

Not a question about customer service, just about insert replacement - did they send out an insert for you to install or did you send your ski in?

[LeonL]

Just go to Lowes and buy some and install them yourself.

[Horton]

@wawaskr send it to Goode. They do not use a standard insert. Because Goodes are built so light you need the right hardware. I would let them do it.

[eleeski]

I've put inserts in Goodes. There is no magic. I have never had to repair a Goode factory insert (maybe there is some magic). What caused your failure? Goode will be able to assess it and make the best repair. Send it to them.

 

Wait, the ski is shot. Send it to me and I'll dispose of it properly.

 

Eric

[skibug]

@wawaskr Don't send it to Goode. If you are even slightly mechanically inclined, it is really easy to do and there is not magic....not even at Goode. I have replaced about 6 or 7 inserts in Goode skis; they fail a lot. You will need to oversize the insert to a #10-32 UNF screw. I would suggest getting an insert with a flange versus the ones that Goode uses. Make sure they are not too long. Take a look at these:

 

www.goo.gl/3uacIT

 

Make sure you drill out (without going through the ski) the old insert, if it hasn't pulled out. You only need a drill bit large enough to barely catch the remaining inserts metal. It will probably peel off pretty easily once the bit catches some of the metal. The hole that is left from the original insert is probably smaller than the recommended hole size for the new insert; but that is OK, since you are going into a thin top plate and carbon fiber. You can open up the hole a little bit to help get it started; but, don't go any more than the depth of one thread on the insert. You can drive the insert in by hand with an T handle hex wrench (like the one you adjust you ski with). The one key step that I have found to be really successful is to mix up a small amount of 2 part epoxy and apply it to the threads of the insert (not the internal threads) before you start to drive the insert into the ski. Drive the insert in until the flange ever-so-slightly begins to depress the top plate of the ski. The 2 part epoxy sets up in 5 minutes and cures in an hour; but, I typically do it and let is set overnight. I have never had a replacement insert pull out...NEVER!!!

[6balls]

Over the years I have a few inserts pull out (like not strip the screw the entire insert pulls out of the ski material). Have put it right back in after applying epoxy. No repeat issues on the epoxied inserts.

[eleeski]

@skibug Those Grainger inserts are not stainless or brass. In salt or my hard water they will not last. Use something that won't corrode.

 

Also, 10-32 is too big for many binding plates. 8-32 is the standard.

 

I have redone inserts many times in the same place. Each problem is unique and needs careful consideration. No magic for sure but mechanical competence and experience help make a good repair. Goode is one source for quality repairs.

 

Eric

[jetpilotg4]

I had Goode do mine and while it was there they did a total refurbish on the rest of the ski... Piece of mind is worth the money spent.

[Gar]

Be careful I drilled a hole thru mine. Sent it back to Goode they fixed it and sent it back to me no charge! I ran my first 35 off at 34mph on that repaired Goode!

[skialex]

I think Goode uses Zinc inserts rather than brass or stainless, it's softer metal and they might fail if you ski in salt water or ovetightened.

The repair is not always the same, you might need to change the insert with a standard one or an overhauled or just repair the threads with helicoil. It's not a big thing.

On my ski I have two repaired inserts with helicoil with no issues and you can't tell which two.

FYI I buy brass inserts for €0.5 each and Zinc for €0.05. The zinc are made to be installed with an Allen tool, personally I prefer brass ones but if you take good care of your ski all of them would last for many years possibly more than your ski's life.

[LeonL]

You're right @skialex they are zinc. Somewhat brittle. The Allen makes for less threads for binding screws.

[bojans]

FWIW, I had to fix an insert on my Vapor. I picked up a the same size insert as the original and a tub of JB Weld waterproof epoxy (putty). I ran a binding screw into the insert with a jam nut on it (to keep epoxy from filling the threads) packed the old insert location with the epoxy and screwed the new insert in. The majority of the epoxy I put in the hole came out around the edges of the insert but that gave me confidence that the insert was coated. A little clean up while the proxy was still playable and the repair has held up very well.

[wawaskr]

My insert did not pull out but the threads failed (did not cross thread). I was able to put a slightly longer screw in to pick up some decent remaining threads. If I am going to send it back to Goode, I would prefer to do so in the off season, so hopefully the longer scew gets me through the season. Looking closely at these inserts, it looks like they have allen head recesses in them for installation. I do agree that they do not look like they are brass.

[DW]

My latest insert repair using Rivnuts instead of a standard threaded insert seems to work very well. The rivnut compresses (aluminum) on both sides of the top carbon material to act as the functional bond rather than a threaded insert gripping the inner foam material. For additional grip, J-B Weld the shank in the install process for additional bond strength.

[skibug]

If the insert is still in and it is the threads that are corroding away, you can also run an oversize tap (#10-32) in the existing insert. There is enough metal to do so. I don't even drill anything; just run the tap. It is not a permanent fix (although I had one last almost a whole season that way); but, it would certainly last long enough to get you to the end of the season. Some one made a comment about a #10 not fitting in the #8 through hole; but, I haven't ever had that problem. Typically the tolerance on through hole diameter is considerable more than the screw size OD. A #8 is .164 OD and a #10 is .190 OD. I think the clearance fit for a #8 overlaps the close fit for a #10. In either case you would only have to open up the through hole by ~.020 max.