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inserts


The_MS
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an actual drill press may not be necessary. insert holes at most ski factories are located and drilled using a fixture that has hardened drill guide bushings. the fixture guarantees location perpendicularity and depth control, and the drilling is done with a hand held drill or die grinder. the same results can be accomplished on a home/hobby level using one-hole fixtures available from woodworking supply houses along with some careful handling.
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The ski core material can have an impact on what type of insert you use. A ski with a soft core or not designed for inserts, I like to use a Rivnut. The rivnut grabs the top skin material for retention rather than relying on the inner core material. Available at Mcmaster Carr. You do need an installation tool, also available at McMaster Carr or even Harbor Freight.
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When I have to replace an insert, i've done 3 in my current ski, I like to use the flange type insert. This serves two purposes; 1. it give you a good reference for how deep to set it, 2. the flange acts as a washer below your mounting plate so when you tighten down you are tightening the binding plate against the flange and not the ski's top plate.
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Lots of Ace hardware stores stock assortments of brass inserts. The 8 32 sizes are often oversize relative to the stock inserts. This can be helpful if the old insert ripped out of the ski leaving a big hole.

 

Choose the drill size about the same size as the base of the threads. I use tape as a drill stop and drill carefully. I find a lag bolt with approximately the same threads and cut the threads with that.

 

I install the threads with a fairly long screw with a jam nut. Carefully wax or antiseize only the screw threads - don't dirty the external insert threads. Thread the screw to the base of the insert. To get the jam nut tight enough, you'll need pliers to hold the insert. The pliers will bugger the threads a bit but that's a good thing as it helps prevent backing out the insert once the epoxy has cured. JB weld works great as an epoxy, slobber it in the hole and on the insert threads. Drive the insert all the way to the jam nut on the top skin. I like to give a little heat to the screw/insert when everything is in place with my heat gun to get the epoxy to flow and start the cure (not too hot). Once the epoxy cures, hold the jam nut firmly with pliers or vise grips while you back out the screw.

 

Note, the oversized Ace inserts might need a washer between the jam nut and the insert and you might need to grind off the shoulder above the threads - the design is variable. Make sure that the external threads go all the way to the top of any insert you use.

 

I get my normal diameter brass inserts in quantity from Woodworking Specialty but I always have a few of the Ace inserts on hand for the major repairs.

 

Rivnuts won't work in my saltwater exposed skis as the aluminum corroded. Don't be too exact with measurements - the epoxy will fill the imperfections and it needs some space to flow into. A jam nut does everything a shoulder bolt does but lowers the risk of backing out the insert on installation. If it backs out, just re epoxy it and reinstall it - with a jam nut and carefully hold the nut when you remove the screw.

 

If the skin is OK but the core is chewed up, adding some steel wool to the epoxy you put in the hole works pretty well.

 

Finally, always use antiseize in the insert threads and don't over torque the screws when you mount the binding. Check the screws frequently. Your inserts should last a long time.

 

Eric

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I partially fill the drilled hole with some 2 part epoxy and coat the insert thread (the ones that bite into the ski with 2 part epoxy as well. I do this to ensure there is no backing out of the insert if the screwed gets a little corroded.
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