Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 I'm in need of some baller help. I have a 2007 196 with the PCM 330 Excalibur. Boat has been running fine all season until this evening. Pulled several skiers and then when my daughter was riding, the boat starting running really rough for about 5 sec and then just died. No check engine light came on. Got towed back to my lift and started investigating. Boat will crank but not turn over. It just cranks and cranks and then hesitates slightly and then keep cranking. (The hesitation is weird and have never seen this before) Can hear fuel pump prime when key is turned to start position. Checked fuel pressure on fuel rail and it was a solid 59-60psi. Checked cap and rotor both are fine and cleaned the cap pins just to make sure any light corrosion was removed. Pulled all the spark plugs and engine turns over freely with no hesitation. Checked spark on each plug. Every plug was firing normal but number 3 seemed to be firing more frequently meaning it was popping very fast where the other 7 cylinders were firing more consistently every time the rotor came around. Plug 3 was fouled a little bit but nothing awful. So basically i was getting really good spark on all 8 cylinders. Pulled the injector wire harness on number 3 and measured resistance across the injector. it was reading 13.5 ohms. Did the same test on cylinder 1 and it was also reading 13.5 ohms. I have good spark on all 8, good fuel pressure, and the engine turns freely. Just for a quick dirty test, I shot some carb cleaner down the throttle body and tried turning it over. Got a nice big pop out of the throttle body so it seems if i introduce fuel it will fire (this is also why you always leave the flame arrestor on). The closest nautique dealer is almost 2 hrs away....and its the 4th of July weekend none the less, @%$# me...... It just seems like its not getting fuel or maybe I got bad fuel down in the injectors? Any help or things to check would be super appreciated. If I have to go to the dealer, I know I'll be out of commission for several weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @Jody_Seal is the resident expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 Thanks @MattP . I've read a lot of @Jody_Seal posts. I know he is very good at what he does. Couple other things to mention as well. I checked the kill switch, but if it was bad I'm pretty sure I wouldn't get any spark. Also the 59-60psi on the fuel rail was just when the key was placed into the on position. I read somewhere that the 59-60psi is at WOT. Not sure if its relevant or not. I continue to google search planet nautique and correct craft fan trying to find anything else I can check here at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skiinxs Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 Are you sure it is gas in the fuel rail not water? Could have gotten a slug of water due to gas / alcohol separation in a storage tank. Drain the Fuel Control Cell and see if any water comes out. While you had the plugs out did you do a compression check? How many hours? Could have a worn timing chain / sprocket and possibly jumped time and / or broke a timing chain. If the cam isn't moving a compression check should show zero on any cylinder with the valve open, although I don't think the distributor would be moving if the chain was broken, and there should be no spark. You could check for jumped time with a timing light by making sure timing is not way off. If it jumped time you would need a new timing chain and sprockets. If both of those check out I would change the crank position sensor as mentioned above. When you checked spark did you just look at spark jumping on the removed plugs or did you use a spark tester? It takes very little voltage to jump a spark plug gap which is not under compression, you should use a spark tester and ensure it jumps a much larger gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller alex38 Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 My 02 SN 5.0 once cranked and wouldn’t start, was the distributor, not the cap but the distributor itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @skiinxs boat has 450hrs with all maintenance done at regular intervals ( we have added about 25hrs this season with no issues). didn't do a compression check, ran out of daylight. I can do that tomorrow morning. rotor moves so I believe the cam is fine. When I put the fuel gauge on it seemed like only gas came out, but I can drain out some tomorrow to verify. I used a spark tester to verify spark at the end of the wire. It was jumping over 3/8" between the studs and very powerful so it seems like the voltage is not being held back anywhere or being redirected to another ground source. I read several posts on planet nautique with similar issues and most ended up being cap and rotor. I may change them out just to eliminate them as a possibility. Trying to eliminate everything simple first. Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @Gloersen correct. no check engine light at all. Not sure if the CPS would generate a fault code or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skiinxs Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 One other thing to check, did it look like there was any moisture inside the cap? Hit the inside of the cap with a bunch of wd40, that will displace moisture if that is the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @skiinxs didn't look like any moisture was present on the inside of the cap. corrosion was minimal. I cleaned all of the brass contact points with a little sand paper, then sprayed the inside of it with contact cleaner and blew it out with an air hose. Still may change out the cap/rotor just to eliminate it. High voltage does funny things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @alex38 I spoke with a gear head friend who also mentioned it could be the distributor. Only problem is when you remove the distributor you have to make damn sure you have everything aligned back in the same place when the new one goes in or the timing is off. The 07 cam position has to be between 0 and 4 deg. Any more or less and it runs really rough. I only know this because I bought the boat used from a dealer several years ago and it was missing a little during the test drive. He hooked up the laptop and was checking the cam position. Its currently set a 2.5deg unless it somehow moved. Ironically it was a cap and rotor that fixed the engine miss that day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller chrislandy Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 Don't panic and just throw parts at it. There is a diagnostic manual on here http://www.wakeupwatersports.com/manuals_and_diagrams.html scroll down to the "PCM service booklet" list, run through the systematic troubleshooting section and 95% of the time you'll get the correct diagnosis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller buoyboy1 Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 A few years ago my 05 would turn over but not start. It ended up being the kill switch. I disconnected and then reconnected it 4 or 5 times and it did the trick. The plastic will degrade over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 I had same issue a few years back. Check the wiring on back side of kill switch. One lead was disconnected for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller chrislandy Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @h2onhk and page T-41 non starting troubleshooting flow diagram edit: a multimeter and a test bulb are highly recommended when troubleshooting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 SHE'S ALIVE!!! Damn distributor cap was the culprit. Many thanks to all who chimed in. The troubleshooting guides are excellent for future reference!! I love this site. Everyone is super helpful. Water is glass, time to ski! Happy 4th of July ballers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Andre Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 Congrats! What was wrong with the cap? My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 3, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 @Andre great question. I'm not really sure. No corrosion, continuity checked good on all points and was not crossing over between cylinders. High voltage does funny things that's hard to pick up or pinpoint. The boat literally popped right over with the new cap. My guess is there was a weak spot somewhere in the plastic mold of the cap or a crack on one of the leads. I'm ruling out moisture because I cleaned everything with contact cleaner and it was dry and clean as a bone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Booze Posted July 3, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 3, 2020 I was about to say "$100 says it's the cap" Where did you get one that quick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sltrju Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I just had the same problem and found the problem was caused by the anti siphon valve. My boat is older with more hours so I am replacing the valve. Some say that just cleaning it may be all that is necessary. The anti siphon valve you need is brass. The aluminum one is not recommended for high horsepower boats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sltrju Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 I probably should have mentioned that I initially thought my problem was the fuel pump. Tested it and it worked. Then I started it and it died. Another test of the fuel pump showed no gas coming out of the pump. Based on that I began playing with the anti siphon valve which ended up being the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted July 4, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted July 4, 2020 @Booze I was standing at the door to Napa when they opened at 7:30am this morning. With my swimsuit on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Fast351 Posted July 6, 2020 Baller Share Posted July 6, 2020 Weird that a distributor cap caused it to just suddenly die. That's usually more of a "driveability" issue where it runs rough and gets progressively worse. I guess it could be the coil lead down to the rotor. In any case, glad you got it. Boat problems suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radarlove Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 02 196 with 330 Excalibur, had very similar things going on with mine last week. Thought it was fuel pump related. Very good mechanic at our marina was troubleshooting electrical system, he was testing every relay. Finally he said is emergency cut off leash plugged in? And it was, he said wiggle it. Fuel pump kicked on. Intermittent problem was bad switch. Also did tune up. Running better than ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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