Connection + Swing: best way to learn, slow the boat and shorten?

[GaryWilkinson]

It almost feels like there’s 2 styles or levels of ability.

 

Those who get stacked, generate good speed and momentum with a moderate amount of pull that stops generally at mid line then glides high on the boat around the pylon, and,.... those that don’t.

 

In the “those that don’t” category I’m at the front of the line.

 

So my question to @AdamCord @adamhcaldwell @Horton and all other disciples of Connection & Swing is, what in your opinion, is the best way to learn this skill because I believe it’s the key to making shorter lines better, (yes easier) and with less toll on the body.

 

Continue in the course at 34 doing a few balls at 35 while ending up later and later down course, while never getting high enough or fast enough to get wide, high and early to backside the ball?

 

Or

 

Slow the boat down, even to 30 mph and practice there. Swing as wide as we can free skiing and hook up in proper stacked position with the ski as far away from our head, cut with good angle to centreline and glide wide again, rinse, repeat. (I’m paraphrasing here for brevity)

Then gradually speed up as comfort level and ability increases.

 

Pls keep in mind, this is Canada and our season is 1/2 over and I’m on my 12 set only. ?

 

As per cords recommendation, attached are 2 videos

 

In the course I’m attempting to go high, straighten my legs more and swing higher. (poor results as you can see)

In the Freeskiing video I’m somewhat more successful at the above listed objectives, but clearly I need to:

-start higher at zero ball

-stand higher at all points

-get my hips higher, shoulders lower and handle more connected at COM

 

So what say you guys?

 

Slow down in free, go to 35 even 38 off to mechanically use the swing getting higher etc

 

Or keep the speed at 34 and try and connect better to swing higher.

Obviously the shorter the line, the easier it is to get higher on the boat and take advantage of the pendulum effect.

 

If there’s a 3rd way feel free to describe.

 

 

[dude]

I had the same thought as you and slowed the boat down 1 mph and have been working on this technique all summer. It works. My thinking is that 33 is fast enough for the ski to perform as designed but it does allow the skier more time to get it right.

 

I am skiing much more consistent than ever and running some 35s. I will soon speed the boat up in small increments using ZO.

[RGilmore]

There is a 3rd way, but it will require a major change to your baseline technique. You need to quit skiing with your head and upper body, and learn to ski with your hips. BTW, remember, this is just one man's opinion.

 

You don't get real far up on the boat, and you don't generate a lot of angle on your turn-in (or at the finish of any of your subsequent turns). Because you don't start very far up on the boat you can't generate very much speed in your cuts. You DO appear to be strong as an ox, but angle and speed beat strength all day long.

 

The primary "reason" for these issues is that you tend to turn your ski with your head and shoulders, instead of your hips (COM). Look at the position of your head and your shoulders at the completion of your turn - you literally THROW your head to the inside of the turn trying to make the ski finish. Compare that to Cole Giacopuzzi in the video below. Take particular note of how tightly he snaps around the turn and how much angle he generates before hook-up. Then notice how he keeps his head and shoulders upright and level, and lets his hips and lower body do all the work.

 

Hanging onto the rope with straight arms and just leaning your body over sideways like a falling tree WILL make the ski turn, but it's a very slow, large-radius path, and the boat easily catches you before you can really build enough angle. Even with driving your head and shoulder to the inside, you simply don't have enough time to finish into the required angle/speed. So when the boat catches you, you haven't really finished the turn and your speed is too slow, making it impossible to accelerate enough to "swing up" on the the other side. You need cross-course angle and speed to the center of the wake if you want to get high up on the boat, and you're simple not getting enough of either.

 

[MNshortliner]

Ok here is my take. I am at the same level skiing as you 34 mph 35 off but this year is the year I think I learned proper stack. The last couple times out I have ran multiple 35’s and they have felt perfect.

In your free skiing set your cuts on what would be ball 2-5,8,&10-12 you don’t rush the turn and you get your shoulders back and hips forward , great leverage, proper stack.

In your course video you only do that on ball 4 and you have more time coming into ball 5 than any other time in the course. All other turns it looks like you are rushing the turns.

Again I am at your same level but those shoulders back and hips up makes the runs feel great. If you start getting slack into and around the ball don’t pull so long. I will come through the course getting slack and realize I am pulling to long and it all comes back together. All the work is done from half way from the wake to the second wake.

[MNshortliner]

Watch Coles 2 pass in the video above. After the turn is complete his work area is from there until just over the wake. Some are more pronounced than others.

[rawly]

Like all of the other pro and expert skiers out there , Coles elbows are tucked to his vest all the way through his edge change. This is probably the most important move that separates them from us. Rope tension into the turn = rope tension out of the turn. It is easy to see in the first set of his video. Most intermediate skiers have an edge change / reach combination going on. Short line skiers have an edge change with both hands , then a reach when the rope gets taken by the boat. You will notice that all of the top skiers have their inside elbow still stuck to the vest and their arm coming off of the vest at 90* going into the turn. I am at your level as well , if I do a correct edge change , I run an easy 35 , if not it’s 2 or 3 buoys.

[cragginshred]

Cole rocks!

[AdamCord]

@GaryWilkinson you’re looking good, just keep working on the moves while upping the intensity and working to start and maintain a higher swing. Just because we want less angle off the 2nd wake doesn’t mean we take less into the first wake. You need speed to make this work well, and you won’t get that without putting in the work on the way to the 1st wake.

 

Anytime you have two hands on the handle, you want your elbows locked to your hips.

[Adam Caldwell]

@GaryWilkinson

 

Looking great behind the boat! One thing to play around with is not letting your free hand move so far away from CL of your body (meaning DONT let your chest stop rotating around once the ski is moving back toward CL)

 

Look to keep the free outside hand out in front of your chest (not out to the side) while your connected hand does the reaching. This should help keep your upper body rotating back toward the pylon in rhythm with the ski as you move back from apex into the handle. Will get your body into a more stacked position with more angle earlier before the first white water.

[GaryWilkinson]

@cragginshred he certainly does. How he gets from that angle and pull to such a great, easy glide is amazing.

 

@rawly good catch on the elbows. I often see images before apex and reach during the glide where skiers stand tall, but that inside elbow is tight in preparation of the reach to be able to turn more completely. ??

 

@AdamCord thanks for the advice. Agree I’ve got to make a more complete turn with my whole body to have my stack more “complete” and stacked position EARLIER past apex.

 

I believe having more speed coming into the turn is something I have to get used to. Without that speed it’s necessary to “muscle” it around and thus why I’m not getting all around.

 

@adamhcaldwell thanks for the coaching. I must admit I’m confused on the advice to keep my hand close “in front of my chest” during reach. Wouldn’t that limit my reach and inhibit any “snap momentum” coming back to 2 handed connection in order to more completely turn and connect?

 

And a question for all again:

 

The more I look at it the more I see 2 kinds of slalom.

 

Behind the boat slalom

Beside the boat slalom.

 

One cannot reach to the side and open the chest, stand up and glide high at 28 off. Thinking mechanically, it’s just not possible, the reach is toward the boat.

 

Whereas, at 35 off the reach is to the side, the glide is high and more free of the boat and the stance is taller and more “open” at apex.

 

So is it better to try 35, 38 off (in the course and free) at a reduced speed in order to get the physical (mechanical) properties of C&S ?

 

I’m gonna try it this weekend and report back ? but I’m VERY interested in your opinions.

Thanks guys.