Baller Andre Posted August 14, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 14, 2021 Ski partner's boat,i'm more at ease with my old MC. I want to check fuel pressure.Quickly check under the doghouse this morning and saw the fuel module at the front driver side of the engine with a schraeder valve.Is it where i need to check or is there another one on fuel rail? Also,i remember something about a fuel -paper filter that used to cause problem on those PCM engine. My memory is failing a bit,but remember the fuel system beeing special on those Nautiques ,like 2 fuel pumps or filters,can't remember exactly... I think fuel pressure is the first thing to check. Should i check on fuel module (not sure how to call it) or fuel rail? What should be fuel pressure for that engine? Any help appreciated! Thanks! My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller buoyboy1 Posted August 14, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 14, 2021 Check cap and rotor as well. My 05 196 had similar symptoms. Cap was only 75 hrs old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller teammalibu Posted August 14, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 14, 2021 I too tend to hesitate when getting on a plane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller CBR51 Posted August 14, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 14, 2021 I have 04-196. Agree with buoyboy1. I would replace Cap and Rotor even if they look good mine looked good and was still the problem. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wawaskr Posted August 15, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 15, 2021 I have an ‘04, and last summer mine left me stranded. Just died. Cap and Rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Jody_Seal Posted August 15, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted August 15, 2021 I like threads like these. Let's see, 18 year old boat, no real history of service or damage in the past. Boat falls on its face during throttle up.. Where to start.. 1 have a diacom scan performed. 2. If a code is apparent address it. 3. Check fuel pressure. 4. Inspect all electric grounds and make sure the battery posts are clean and tight. 5. Check fuel system. Anti siphon valve and check for grawdew on or in the pickup in tank. Guaranteed the boat has mostly run ethanol fuel that has and will degrade the inner liner of the fuel lines. Pull apart the low pressure pump check for grawdew on the screen. Is the fuel hose connected to the high pressure pump in the fcc compromised and sucking air . Has the inline filter been changed recently? Has the fcc filter been changed recently? 6. Are the ignition wires and spark plugs original? 7. Check and see if the dizzy cap fasteners are not degraded or cracked at the housing lugs. 8. ECS in good working condition? The list goes on. If one has not the back ground one should pay a shop to perform these tests and tasks. Good luck.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Andre Posted August 15, 2021 Author Baller Share Posted August 15, 2021 Thanks all! I will get back this week with updates.I will change cap and rotor for sure as they're originals according to my friend and perform Jody's checklist also. My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Andre Posted August 18, 2021 Author Baller Share Posted August 18, 2021 Yep,cap and rotor did the job! 1100hrs on originals... Thanks for the help everyone! My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller CBR51 Posted August 18, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 18, 2021 Great to hear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wawaskr Posted August 19, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 19, 2021 I dont believe I even got 50 hrs out of my last one. BTW, the PCM part is identical to the chinese part you can buy on amazon for $18.95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wawaskr Posted August 19, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 19, 2021 Also it looks like that cap is an automotive one (aluminum terminals), the original would have been brass, so it must have been swapped at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Andre Posted August 19, 2021 Author Baller Share Posted August 19, 2021 New one is from NAPA,75$ CDN for both cap and rotor. How much was the PCM one? Good catch on the alu terminals... My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wawaskr Posted August 19, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 19, 2021 PCM $71.43 (www.nautiqueparts.com) https://nautiqueparts.com/product/cap-and-rotor-kit-5-7-5-0-rp173098/ Amazon $15.99 https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q1BDM4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Billbert Posted August 19, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 19, 2021 @wawaskr Not trying to be difficult but I don't suppose it has occurred to you that maybe the reason you are only seeing 50 hours or so out of the cap and rotor might have something to do with the $15.99 price tag vs the OEM price of $71.43? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skihacker Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 So way back in the day there were a zillion six and 8 cylinder gm's around that ran that style cap, it was always a way better bet to spend the money on the gm cap, plenty of trucks towed in that had quit first time it got wet with a cheap aftermarket cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Mateo_Vargas Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 I've had good results with the ACCELL brand which doesn't have aluminum contacts and can be bought locally. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/accel/accel-distributor-cap/acc0/120141?q=120141&pos=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wawaskr Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 @Billbert - no problem - I knew that would come up. The cap I replaced was a FACTORY PCM cap! So there you have it. The cap I got from amazon (because I could get it next day, and it had brass contacts) had the same markings, flow lines, etc. as the factory PCM cap! I am quite sure PCM/Crusader parts are also manufactured in China. I really dont care if you believe it or not, its just a data point, so enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller buechsr Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 There was a bad batch of caps a couple years ago, even PCMs. The casing was allowing current to spread to other cylinders. Sometimes it was showing up right away, sometimes not. I did a long block swap on a 196 and it sounded like Normandy at first, until we figured it out. Andre, might want to tell your friend that caps and rotors are "maintenance" items not "repair" items! I assume its an excalibur and I don't recall perfectly, but I think they should be replaced biannually or 200 hours. Nonetheless, he should do it more frequently than 17 years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller fu_man Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 That oxidation that builds up on the cap and rotor can be cleaned off with some wet/dry sandpaper if you don't let it go too long. I do this annually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller keithh2oskier Posted August 20, 2021 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2021 Just replaced my cap and rotor. My boat has 340 hrs and is 19 years old. I have owned the boat for 5 years and never done it to this point. It's probably the original cap/roter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ lpskier Posted August 21, 2021 Baller_ Share Posted August 21, 2021 I’m surprised you can get past TSA much less on a plane with an 04 196. Lpskier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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