dchristman

... and if you don't have a flexible plastic can, you can try this way

You don't need a jiggler if you're using plastic cans, and it should go faster -

Finally, skin to ski top-skin sensitivity and control. I imagine it might be more comfortable than my "old" plate, too, with the new aerospace toe cup rubber in contact with the foot to improve the connection and the experience of skiing.

Good to see @kjackfrost representing us trickers!

@vtmecheng Nobody answered your question. The sole of a Reflex boot is 1/4" thick. That is roughly the difference depending on the thickness of the plate material of the front and rear plates and any underpad. Don't forget to take your leg length difference into consideration. I recommend not winter mode over-anal-izing this. I did and it set me back 2 months this year.

It was great to see eyeTrick used successfully at the Malibu Open. Supported tablet ordered!

@wawaskr I didn't catch that but I did notice a standard shape fin instead of the CG and it appears the tail of the ski appears rounded.

You need to think about the physics of this. It seems you are operating under the premise that the boat will pull you up, and that is not the case. The boat is pulling you and the skis down the lake together. It will pull the skis onto plane with you as the connection between them and the handle. You need to stand up perpendicular to the skis and you can't pull on the handle to accomplish that, you would just push the skis in front of you and fall back. There is no way you will be able to stand up from the position in your picture. You need to attain a balanced position perpendicular to the skis that you can stand up from, the same as standing up from a squat position on the floor without pulling on something.

10

Cut and paste of my reasoning for leaving it out from a previous thread:

I always remove my boot and I highly recommend you do particularly if you have the carbon plate.

One of my ski partners always left hers attached and had a couple pre-release incidents last year. She replaced the spring and still had a problem. I had her let me take a look at it before this season started and we ended up replacing both her boot and the plate with a G10 plate. My theory is that both items had taken a set to them from being attached constantly. The front toe-bar was tight on the plate, but it was angled forward a few degrees. The toe of the boot was flattened out a bit. This combination was non-optimal. The release system is composed of more than just the release mechanism - you need to pay attention to all the parts!

If you've had a carbon plate for any length of time take it off the ski and look at it. I bet it's not perfectly flat anymore.

I will never forget making little Brenda Nichols cry when, as safety director for one of our early 80's tournaments in Reading, PA, I told her she was _not _going over the jump on those 60's era cut-down wooden jumpers with screws hanging out the bottom. Ed then bought her a pair of well used, cut-down 70's era EPs from Jimmy Mandolos' niece so she could ski. I like to think I somehow contributed to her future success, but more likely there was nothing holding her back.

@skialex I know you're kidding, but that would be a terrible idea. I think it's already bad enough depending on the ski inserts to retain the release components. Now you want to slot out the holes on the pieces with the release components attached and weaken them? You also would need to keep front and back "synchronized"... just a bad idea!

Mikro-just would not be viable with this setup.

Interesting, but it strikes me as a little scary depending on the two inserts to retain the release. What do you think?

@horton Yeah, I could see it happening if they were loose but I'm pretty sure they were always tight. I didn't just tighten it down more before I skied, they were tight. I will certainly check those screws (and maybe as important the holes!) more frequently now.

Update:

Taking a closer look at the holes I can see they were countersunk below the surface of the plate a bit which likely made it weaker. My newer plates don't look like this.

It turns out Reflex will release at the toe, it's just not as easy to reset :o

I ripped out my toe bar on a poorly executed flip. The toe bar is now at the bottom of the river.

It's an older G10 plate, but no way I would have predicted this to happen. I thought it was in pretty good condition. I know the bar was tight because I had just taken it off my ski to put in on someone else's to try. I'm glad I had it on my trick and not my slalom!

I ordered a D3 aluminum Reflex plate to replace it. I'm thinking @skialex 's mod of an extra bolt through the base pieces of the toe bar on G10 and carbon plates is an excellent idea and may have prevented this from happening.

Trace your fin on a piece of thin, stiff material to use for a quick eyeball check.