brettmainer

I believe there are online typing tutorials to help you type faster

+2 for Jacinta. Tough. I’d still be in traction for another 6-8 weeks after that crash.

Does it run? Where is it? I might be interested.

To answer @Dirt question, for me, 3 times. KD7000 in 1996. Goode 9500 in 2003 and Goode XT in 2014. I have gone backwards since I got off the XT for sure.

I prefer 1/2” so I can drive my knees forward better, but on the R style that puts my back big toe against the release mechanism of the front Reflex and feels weird, so I moved back. I think I need to go back to 1/2”, but the feel of the toe on the steel release is disconcerting.

I’ve been measuring boot placement from tail to boot shell just under block. Is this “the standard” location to measure to? I’m asking because I am WAY off from what is recommended for my current ski, which has caused me to wonder.

With all due respect, I don't think you should be asking "when to turn in for the gates." Obviously, you should turn in for the gates when it results in you being just inside of the right hand gate ball with optimal angle, speed and body position. Where exactly that turn starts (bow of boat distance to gates) will be different depending on how wide you are and how quickly you complete the turn. Some folks are successful being super wide and slowly turning in; others are equally successful with a narrower gate and a sharp turn in. I suggest to only worry about getting the optimal pull out / turn in that results in the best angle / speed / line load / body position. Get that motion figured out first. If you do it perfectly but miss the gates early, go later next time. If you are late, go earlier. In short, picking "when" to go is the last thing to figure out AFTER figuring "how" to go. To pick an arbitrary pullout location then force your pullout and turn in to fit that location seems backwards to me. Learn to ski the line length first, then fit that motion to the gates. It might be best to practice free skiing -32, including the starts. That way you can focus on the proper width and timing of your new, shorter pendulum without having to worry about being early or late. That said, everything Dave Miller said is correct...for him. And if you are going to try to copy a successful skier's gates, that is a great person to copy. However, I would be more focused on copying his proper width and glide, followed by copying how he moves in and carries the proper stack in perfect timing with the natural pendulum rather than focusing on the turn in point itself. That will come with experience.

Unless you ski at -32 and shorter, you will be disappointed with the 197 wake. Carbon Pro has the best wake, but is small and takes driver input. Malibu has the best Open bow and a nice wake. Nautique makes the best boat with great wakes, but the 200 sacrifices interior room for storage. Depends on what you want out of a bigger boat.

and that the mindset of “high end tournament drivers” is not so egocentric.

I’m going to go with what @lpskier said, because a driver who purposely gives less than his best at any tournament, let alone Nationals where people spent vacation time plus $1k plus to attend, shouldn’t be a driver. I sincerely hope that @Jody_Seal is wrong

I agree w @liquid d. Shortline happens after you run your max speed. Most 12yr old plus start at -15. Even LL kids begin to start at -15 before they run max speed (mine did anyways). There is a big difference between 22 and 39, but that’s not the point. When the boat stops at the end to shorten rather than speed up, you are at shortline. In my case when the boat stops, they typically tell me to lengthen the rope or try a different sport.

As the top seed, taking 38 in the huge tailwind when only needing 1@39 for the win perhaps proves a lifetime of beer drinking does impare ones judgement.

@Than_Bogan and @Wish I did the same blind test a few years ago. Driver and observer picked the settings at random and I did two passes, 32-35, then changed setting and did another 32-35. Problem was it takes 18 passes to do that and fatigue sets in. If I had to do it again (and may do so once my ribs heal), I’d do the same thing changing letters only but just leave the number at 2. 6 passes, 32-35. Or maybe 9 passes 32-35-38. After I decide what letter I like, do it again with the letter locked in and 9 passes changing 1-2-3. But, that’s a lot of work. I’ll probably just stay at the same C2 I’ve used for 10 years and not bother.

You would have to go back a few years to find the origin of that. More proof that you don’t have to be faster than the bear as long as you are faster than your buddy. So as not to perpetuate the thread hijack, kudos to Regina. The finishes of many of those turns were not ideal, but the skill, strength and tenacity of what followed shows what is possible for those far more athletically talented than I.

Regarding @Horton’s list. For an ‘80s skier, he pretty much glossed over the ‘80s w only the Redline. Horton must have been concentrating on jump and trick back then.

GOODE 9500. Went from several years of occasional 35 then 2@38 to consistent 35 plus more than 3@38. Then I got hurt, had 3 busy kids and the wheels fell off. 15 years down the road and typing this with jacked up ribs from being stupid, that was still the ski that gave me the “Eureka” moment.

Try as many as you can get your hands on, then buy the one you like.

If the pro-build came with markers and color by numbers, I’d buy one. I’d still suck at skiing, but I’d have fun coloring.

Wow. That is a lot of nonsense to fix what wasn't broken by making it more complicated and by all accounts, worse. It seems like the folks at Nautique have gotten too close to the trees and lost sight of the forest. I'm glad I was cut from the promo team this year and got to keep my 200. I could be wrong about the "worse" part, as that is only hearsay. I should reserve judgment on "better/worse" until I get to drive and ski the boat. However, I don't think there is any question that they have overcomplicated things.

I am a fan of the CG fin, as it greatly reduced the drag I felt with the stock fin and S wing. Due to the amount of rocker in the last 10" of the C65, I found there is a +/- 3 degree wing angle variation depending on how I hold the caliper bar used as a spacer for the wing angle gauges against the ski. I didn't like the shallow option (which, depending on what how it is measured may have been as shallow as 4-5 degrees), but at the steeper option for 7 degrees, it feels good. I have "standardized" to hold the caliper bar flush against the tail of the ski and set the wing to 7 degrees rather holding the spacer flush with the portion of the ski in front of the wing. In order to keep apples to apples regarding wing angle settings shared between skiers, it may be helpful if Denali issued a standard method for spacing and using wing angle gauges, so one person's idea of 7 degrees is not interpreted to be 4 or 10 degrees by someone else. This is a moot point for skis without rocker over the last 10 or so inches, but there is quite a bit of curve in the tail of the C65.

Shrink wrap. Trailering with a cover, even a ratchet strap cover, scuffs the gel coat at the rear of the boat and can discolor engine cover as well.

Thank you for the input.

I have a couple of questions. First, I have been skiing on my black cuff front with soft rubber rear for 3 years. I like it a lot and it works well, but is there some corrosion or fatigue related maintenance I should do? My biggest fear is pre-releasing when I am not expecting it. Second, and more important. My 12yr old daughter has progressed rapidly this spring and is now skiing at 32mph. She was a 25 - 28 mph skier just a month ago. She is on a low rise lace up radar front binding w rear toe piece. I worry that she has a few big crashes coming, and I want her in the safest set up possible that still allows high performance. She is very talented at several other sports and I don't want to see a leg injury. I was figuring to get her a Reflex black cuff due to my positive experience, but I see there are now 3 binding choices (black, white and super shell) and two release choices (840/750). What has been good for a 180lb double boot skier who rarely crashes may not be the best for a 110lb toe piece skier who is going to take some wrecks. Can I please get some input as to the relative merits of the binding types for a toe piece skier and also the difference and recommended choice between the 840 and 750 releases? Thanks in advance for the input.

I’m curious as to common club / ski school boat oil change intervals. This time of year, 50hrs is every week. I’ll change the oil every two weeks and not worry if has been 80hrs. This year we are rotating 3 boats so it is easy to keep up with the 50hr interval, but even so, I don’t stress on the 50.00hrs part when I know that it has only been a couple of weeks. I do know that I’ve never let one of my boats go over 80hrs. Also, I do find it better to change the oil after skiing, in the shade, and while drinking beer. I assume others also let the 50hrs slide a little under similar circumstances, but I’m curious.

I have owned 200s with the 5.7 and currently have a 2016 200 with a 5.3 H5. The 5.3 is better in every regard save initial purchase price. The fuel economy is noticeably better with the 5.3.