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Vernon Reeve
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Posts posted by Vernon Reeve
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Maybe that will free up some time for exercise:)
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Terry Winters coaching is first rate. My stacked posture crossing the wakes is noticeably better after his lesson explaining with great detail what and why I should be doing it different. Side by side video of me versus him at the same line length and speed, with markup on the video to help illustrate what he was saying. Totally worth the cost.
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And then backs up, and keeps backing up into the opposite door. And has the wakeboard in the rack (which probably isn't recommended at highway speeds).
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Would have been fun to see Joel Howley and Terry Winter in the mix also.
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I think it was an Eagle vest, but I can check when I get back home in a couple weeks. I think most of the super skinny vests will roll inside out on a side slide. I'm currently using a Radar vest, which I like because the flotation is one big pad across the ribs which I think will help distribute the impact better than the ribbed versions. It also has a boa tie in the back at the waist which acts like an extra strap to prevent the inside out issue when sliding across the water. But after the last rib injury with the extra padding, I gave up trying to add any extra padding, and am focused more on keeping hips up and handle low to prevent bad wipeouts.
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I tried that Evoshield rib protector after losing a month a couple summers in a row from rib injuries. Unfortunately, on the next wipe-out, I hit hard enough that my life jacket tried to turn inside out, and jammed that shield straight into my rib under the chest muscle. So if you wear it, make sure your life jacket has straps or something that will prevent it from trying to flip inside out.
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The tower on my 2003 Malibu Response lxi is under 50 lbs, centered over the middle of the boat. So kind of like having a small child in the passenger seat. Therefore I doubt my tower makes the wake much bigger. Your tower might be different, however.
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I've had this happen in my previous Malibu Response, and also in my car. In both cases it had to do with the filter in the vent hose getting clogged.
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The Spex goggles I mentioned earlier have foam, and lots of air flow. Maybe not the most attractive, but they work well. https://spexusa.com/ I think the lenses are interchangeable also, so you can use the clear for low light and the dark for bright days.
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The fill-up time might be a concern. Says it takes a long time, but not hours...
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@Jody_Seal it will be good to see you again. Probably have you inspect my new used boat when you're here to be sure everything is good if you have time.
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I didn't realize @jipster43 was JP. He's helped me with some slalom issues locally. I ski with the Helena guys on some weekends, but mostly ski at Rosewater near Kalispell. Great guys at both places. Let me know if you still need contact info for either place.
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I use "Spex Amphibian Eyewear" and they work great. You can find them on https://www.overtons.com/spex-amphibian-polarized-goggles-300578.html
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Looks like they got tired:)
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Carry your speed around the turn and wait until your ski passes under the rope before you pull. In other words, do the work behind the boat instead of at the apex of the turn. One can really feel the difference between pulling an advanced skier through the course that pulls behind the boat versus one that pulls at the buoy. But maybe you're already doing this, in which case, hopefully the boat mods will work. My biggest issue with my first boat, a 175hp I/O boat, was that I could pull the boats speed down about 4mph, then when I let up, the boat would surge forward. Getting an inboard was a huge improvement with every aspect of skiing and having fun swimming at the back of the boat.
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Why didn't Rob the skeleton try for the extra buoy at 41 off?
No guts:)
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I have a 9900 SL Left that I'm not using. I live up North in Montana and bought it from someone even further north in Cold Lake Alberta. So it hasn't been used as much as the southern skiers since we can only ski half the year. It's in great shape, hasn't been drilled into, has the Goode universal power plate with the interlock attached. It's a 66 145 Amp 9936. It says 66C99015WL (whatever that means). I was planning to list it for 600, but would take 500 for it (shipping not included).
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Shortcut: You can hold the Select button for a couple seconds to go directly to Tournament mode.
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Thanks. That helps.
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I've seen where people have said the heat form the vest. So how do you do this? Do you take the plastic back plate out and then put the plate in the oven? Or do you leave it together and put it all in the oven? What temperature? After you take it out of the oven, how do you make it conform? Do you need a helper, or do you just put the vest back on and let it conform? Or do you use a heat gun and once again, if using the heat gun, do you take the plastic back plate out first, or leave it in?
2nd question, any recommendations of a wetsuit or long sleeved top that is thin enough to go under the powervest? I usually switch from swim trunks to a dry suit when the water temp drops to 58, but maybe the newer wetsuits are thinner, and will allow my to go down another 10 degrees before a dry suit is needed.
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I'm using the powergrip gloves with the powervest, and found the easiest is to put the powervest on, then put my ski on, then put my arms through the sleeves and the powergrip gloves while sitting on the edge of the dock. Loving the Powervest so far...takes a little to get used to, but after a couple sets, I'm feeling more comfortable with it.
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Are you sure the rope wasn't just twisted? A rope with lots of twists will feel like a bungee cord.
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I can't my fingers into the finger holes of my binding using the Goode Powergrip gloves because the middle fingers are stuck together. So has anyone either cut out the section in the binding between the finger holes, or put a strap through the holes to pull up on? Or just put the gloves on after the ski is on?
Can you tell us how you contracted "Horton Elbow" ?
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