whitem71

Maybe I should put some money on Jacinta for the slalom gold ?

Every time I see footage from past comps on this lake I just wince..

Not matter how calm the weather seems, big lakes are normally a little deeper and thus always have an element of swell and changeable water conditions minute by minute. One for the heavier, experienced or European skier? Would love to know how they plan to combat the conditions - fin, bindings, soft knees or bigger skis!?

European water is faster generally. Those who can handle it post big scores, especially with flat conditions and warm sunshine...

I’d go for a Masterline custom, 13” 1.03 which I think is considered the standard recommended size as it suits most people. Have been told lots of things by top skiers in the past re- widths, i.e. the taller you are and wider your shoulders are, then go with a 13”, yet some people say the wider handle is useful to create stability on the pull. Others said the smaller 12” handle helps to keeps your elbows pinned to your vest! I’m only 5ft 9 with smallish hands and I use a 13” as I used to miss the handle with my pinkie every now and then, and 1.00 diameter as it just seems to fatigue my grip less than a larger one. Guess it depends on how you hold the handle too but I’m sure I heard that Whitney uses a 1.062 which is large for a female skier.

Awesome job Freddie, congrats Masters Champion! Sketchy but that half will do ?

Not according to the Masters official website:

 

 

I’ve always used ML custom handles for obvious reasons (they are good!) however a friend of mine who runs a ski school asked me what I thought of the Radar Vapor bar lock custom handle. In the UK these are about £60 ($75) cheaper but are they any good? I haven’t personally used a Radar handle so has anyone any experience of them? To be honest for the mixture of skiers and abilities he gets I don’t see the harm of giving the Radar a go, but they are limited in only 3 diameters (0.94, 1.062 and 1.1) so I’d suggest the middle size at 13” width? Is this false economy, or a good move as I do know that the soft rubber of the ML tends to wear pretty quickly.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

Thanks all. I’m sure I’ll get used to it but it’s just a bit aggressive feeling which tends to pull me forward out of position quickly unless I’m on it. I’m sure the cold UK water at the moment is contributing too..

I make no apologies for what must be the 500th post about vapor fin settings - because I’m sure we are addicted to discussing it ?.

 

Just moved on to a 2017 66 PB and love it - fast and mega responsive - but wondered if anyone has ridden it with Matt Rini’s settings?(I bought it from Perf and that’s how they set it up). They are 2.450, 0.725, 7.0, 29.25, 9 and it feels a great if a little ‘pointy’, i.e. uncompromising, tip down & on rails! Thus struggling to get back into 32 as yet. Any idea how this compares with stock settings (2.460, 0.745, 6.960, 29.25, 9)?

 

Thanks

I don’t think he looks much different on whatever ski he rides, very similar onside certainly. Is he using a rear kicker? Looks like it and that may explain the easier looking offside vs the double boots. The two handed gate to me looks to offer no significant benefit however, and he still looks typically calm off the second wake trying (I’m guessing) not to spike the ZO and control the line? Certainly a lot different to other pros who attack the gates like a banshee..

Wow. Few things which struck me too - KLP’s reverse grip for slalom (I thought only Mike Hazelwood did that), lack of helmets for jump and how short the jump skis were, Ricky retiring at 30 due to old age, Carl’s moustache ?, how flat that water was (!), and finally what about that slalom technique....arms up in the air, bent at the waist and I’m guessing they were 65/6 inch skis for the men..

I don’t get it. Freddie’s been to Australia a bunch of times before, did he forget what to write on the visa application this time? Do all the other pro skiers state ‘tourism’?

Just why did skiers of yesteryear allow their heads & shoulders to drop (especially the ladies of the 70/80’s), but nowadays everyone is able to keep level? I’m guessing it’s because today’s skis turn much easier and you don’t have to force it round with your body. Or is it just better coaching?

Sorry to hear that Freddie. Looks like Will is flying the UK flag though looking at his R1 score, and Joel for the overall.

Webcast commentators just announced that Freddie hasn’t made it into Australia due to ‘visa issues’ ! Anyone heard what happened?

I’m over in Orlando from the UK in March and will pop in to Masterline for a new handle. Question is do I go for the Normal custom radius or an Ergo radius? I’m coming from a regular straight 13 custom in 1.00 diameter. Does the ergo come in different diameters too? Figured I’ll get a radius this time due to my tweaky elbow but can’t decide which one to get! Help..?

I think tricks was my favourite event to watch (and participate in) back in the 80’s because the flip was the big wow at the end. Sort of like building up to the final hurrah as the time ticks away - quick get the flip in before times up! The LO tricks just looked amazing too, really athletic and probably harder that the flips of today. Crazy tho how much time was wasted taking your foot in and out of the RTP mid run! Now the’re all strapped in and have separate skis for each pass! I’d like to see a bit of a shake up in tricks as the flips are making it a little boring and clinical now..

Love the old school bent elbow turns - reminds me of the legend 80’s skier Brett Thurley

Wonderful film, a legend family in the sport

@jhughes - how did things pan out in the end? I have just moved to a new front T Factor (with RTP) after years on a Leverage and have experienced the exact same issue as you did, I.e. poor onside turn. It feels sluggish like the ski is suddenly 2 inches longer. I moved the fin forward a tad but this didn’t help at all.

 

It kind of feels like I can’t hook the ski around the buoy anymore which is obviously what I was doing with the stiff front and back Leverage. The T Factor feels softer at the front of the ankle (forward flex) which I know is the idea but has created this issue for me, like you, with one side turns. Or maybe it’s the soft back which is causing the problem? Clearly I need to figure out how to turn with my hips not my feet.

 

My next step may be to move the rear binding one hole back as this controls on side turns...

..only problem is the KD seems impossible to find in the UK

I think I need to change my 2015 67 inch O’Brien G5 for something new. It’s been a fun ski and I’ve developed well on it, but as I’m only 150lbs and now skiing regularly into 32 off at 34mph I think it’s too big. Seems to cope ok up to 32 but seems to struggle (or should I say I struggle) with shorter line lengths. I did try the 65.5 G5 and it felt like I had the brakes on...

 

What do people think would suit me? I’m looking at the obvious bunch... a 66 Vapor, Arc (Evo is too expensive still), KD or maybe a Senate??

Initial impressions after taking a couple of sets at 28 & 32 off this weekend:

 

I’m size 9 US (8 UK) and the mediums appear about the right size, however the front of my foot is super tight and feels squashed down. I’m sure this will settle down though. The rear/upper boot feels a little loose compared to the Leverage and need a fair amount of tightening with the cord to get it anywhere near snug enough for me (I have slim feet).

 

In terms of skiing, tbh it felt much the same as the Leverage but perhaps a little more directional ball to ball. Skied about the same score so pretty happy. Great that I was able to take it off really easily too.

 

In terms of moving on I would like to loosen up the fronts and tighten up the heel and ankle area. I’m not sure how to do this - I’m guessing bring in the width a bit with the adjustment screws underneath but I haven’t a clue how to do this. Anyone done it? I took the screws out but was then kinda stuck, as I couldn’t see how to bring the binding in narrower. Help!

Right. So I guess it’s not really meant to be adjusted us then? Which is why D3 don’t mention it in the instructions. In my mind tho if you make the base wider, yes the rubber tightens down but perhaps allows more lateral foot movement? Which I don’t think you would want unless you have a wide flat foot!

Thanks, I’ll have a look tonight. I’m guessing you slide the screws in/out then tighten up in that position?