skimtb

I think the bow stop is a waste unless you have multiple inexperienced drivers or on some rough water?

Pick a point to line up, as suggested.

I’m on 3rd lift and 2nd boat and the back rest of the spotter seat usually lines up close to the corner post of the lift.

Generally I think the motor box should be approx in middle of the lift, to center the load front to back

You would have to overpull by a few feet to ding the prop. Assuming you are coming in very slow... if you are looking to ram the lift and stop, that’s different.

Nice boat upgrade by the way.

@bishop8950 I got some stuff from this place to use similar to deckadence for some flooring in a Prostar.

Found via MC Teamtalk. It’s not as soft / plushy as decandence but lower cost and seems good.

As mentioned, stuff is heavy and likely will stay put.

https://www.americanfloormats.com/vinyl-mesh-pool-mats/

I think I called on this a while ago and the more expensive one was maybe measured prior to shipping. I see the description says pre stretched for both.

It was something minor (in addition to the markers) and I went cheaper.

Just call and they will tell you.

Pass on that. Winch doesn’t size the lift usually. The frame and stuff like that does. You will probably want at least approx 108” width, which was standard for many years for freestanding lifts like that. 116-120” more in demand now due to wakeboats, so should be able to find something.

Also agree price is high.

There has to be a 3500-4000 lb 108” that someone is selling because their new boat won’t fit.

Did you check how easy the rudder turned w the cable out? It may need cleaned out and regreased.

Either way I don’t think it would spin with a flick.

Evidently you can’t get the ratchet or mechanism tight enough?

Does the cover have loops for bungees?

If yes, and Assuming you roll the cover from back to front to remove, as you install the cover (rolling front to back), hook bungees from the loops to the lift cradle. Likely need to do both sides so it is “pulling” the same on both sides.

Suction cups could work too, but would be annoying to watch them fail from inside the house during a rainy windstorm...

Thanks @MISkier enjoyed that. Slightly larger version of the siphon to fill boat gas.

@Spencer_Shultz Very cool project.

Edit. Re reading your stuff. If the 12x12 foam blocks won’t snap, 12 of them should be fine.

If they are brittle, maybe 3/4” plywood between block and bottom of hoist or a 2x8 lumber etc.

Need call water and no surf boats...

I’ve seen lifts floated across lake with the 4” thick foam pieces 4’ x 4’ or so in each corner.

I’ve also seen a lift be moved by two pontoons. They were nose to nose and the lift was on the portion in front of the fence, if that makes sense.

Also could use the foam floating mats rolled up:

https://rossowater.net/products/rosso-water-mat-floating-foam-for-lakes-oceans-pools?variant=32687807725704&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2021-03-03&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgJWF1azU7wIVOQ2tBh07HgsUEAQYASABEgLehfD_BwE

My first thought would be to have something machined by a machine shop that would be similar to a “tensile test” specimen, incorporating holes in the ends to connect clips to your rope or cable.

Basically it would be custom machined such that the cross section of the middle would result in breaking at 400 lbs. The slight challenge will be that material properties can vary some so you would be 400 lbs +/- something....

Surface finish of the machined part may effect it too but that may be more important for fatigue vs and ultimate failure as you are looking for.

Kinda like the piece near end of this article.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensile_testing

Good luck with a boat. Market is nuts already and it’s only March.

What site went away?

Guys on teamtalk were taking about a motion activated sprinkler to keep ducks and geese off the dock. That may work here too.

Agree dog may be good solution too but then dog may need to be outside (and in the sand and water) a lot.

93 was a good year. The 25,000 hull @Broussard posted is a beautiful unicorn. The Limited edition by @ALPJr is nice too. I think I still prefer the Blue S&S though:

I do think the 197 may be best looking ski boat ever though, here is a nice one:

So I really like the blue flake....

Does anyone have the anodized aluminum top deck sections? I know old school bare aluminum gets hot in the sun.

I’m being told the anodized keeps it cool. Curious if it really works. ???

Which way does your roof go? Is the header / wall more of a load bearing type (roof slopes down in front) or just a plain wall (gable above garage door).

What is total opening?

The decorative post may have been intended structure, even if it’s just two 2x4’s. Two small headers butted close to each other is not ideal (flimsy connection) so they could have just done one long one....

I wouldn’t want to pay $540, maybe shop around. I’d be ok with @BraceMaker guy. It’s pretty simple math I believe. Just need to know allowable limits for the materials.

Well that’s just plain fun. Look forward to whatever is next!

Assume someone will post a link sometime.

Can you find a narrower trailer from another boat and have it modified? $8k would be a lot of $$$ for a weld shop and some paint?

You likely need it to sit high enough to be over the tires vs between.

Oops. I kind of restated what @Sethro said.