Lukewarmwater

We ran an Acme 515 on a an older Malibu ski boat(approx 1000' ASL) with carb and direct drive; it improved hole shot and smoothness significantly over the old stock prop. RPMs did not seem to be affected by more than about 50. The old prop had a 13X13-1/2 spec. There was no speed loss on the top end. Overall a big improvement. Good luck!

Good information, thank you. I was definitely interested if it had any affect on the wake wash. On some inboard boats the prop wash seems to get thrown to the surface creating a hard wake. I assume the cut out at the top of the back of many a ski boat rudder is to help relieve this also(?) -although the illustration doesn't show the cut out.

Interesting, thanks, were the reasons for this hydrodynamic? -or just to make it easier to remove or install the propeller drive shaft. Right as in starboard I take it??

Was rudder offset built into the early 90's PS190's?(as viewed down the centerline of the boat, the rudder being a little to one side from the prop shaft line).

Eric Kelley, what kind of tape was typically used for the custom tuning(hook) at the transom? ...and could you make a deeper explanation on how it was done? Seems like the water pressure would rip it off the bottom in short order... even under testing conditions...

You might try going just outside the wakes on either side and then cutting back thru. If you go way outside, it causes you to come back into the wake fast, and then you flatten up for fear of the wake. Faster boat gets the wake a little smaller; as well as a shorter line. I mostly practiced at 28 off. Ultimately you want to have the ski on edge through the wakes; the ski will take the wakes much better that way. Start edging close to the wakes first, to build confidence with leaning and edging thru. Have fun!