Gus

i only know the thin liner (reflex) - that's supposed to be the one for tricks - and its fine.

I bought a piece of 5mm dyneema rope (http://www.lijnenspecialist.nl/d-core) and made a trickski line of that. That rope (3300kg) can lift the entire boat and as such a bit scary - I added a small piece of normal ski rope, just in case. Dynema floats, which is a useful property for ski ropes. Careful with dyneema with polyester coating, that sinks. The almost complete lack of stretching has pro's and con's. It's 'more precision' against being treated a bit rougher. Some like it some don't. I like it. I'm focussed completely on tricks, didn't do slalom for months, and I was in for a surprise when I tried out an old slalom ski this year. The slalom rope, which I was familiar with from previous year, felt like a piece of elastic after all the tricking with the dynema, at least during the start. But a trick rope is not that long, and a thick 'normal' slalom rope will be pretty ok stretchwise. The hardshell binding is a much bigger gain, pretty much a must. The wiley trick binding for instance, is an attempt at creating something that sticks very solidly, with rubber. And it squeezes out the blood from your foot, trying to do that. Hardshell solves that problem.

Dragging is great for weak boats that take a long time to get up to speed, it allows you to create a very low friction situation for the boat. I perfected it behind a 50hp outboard long time ago.. you have to.. But two years ago I switched to both feet in (and to a 196), both on trick and slalom. It takes a bit of getting used to until the technique improves and everthing feels normal again. But by now I prefer it. It spreads the load across both legs and hips. Dragging is great for weak boats, for the powerhouses better keep both feet in.

Soften it, using hot water.

I have a sun powered ventilator, installed in the cover - very effective against mould and always a fresh smell in the boat. Its plastic, and could produce quite some static on sunny days. But I'd expect that to dissipate when it hits the water surface..

So something like this needed.. I always thought ski nautiques in sweet water didn't require any anodes.

It has been out of the water for four months, for the winter break. In some of the holes, more caverns, there was some very clear lightgreen copper rust.

Bit surprised to find the prop in this condition, its 2 years old. I don't remember seeing all those little holes last year when we took it out. Anyone any experience with that? Is this normal?

Cool :) Thanks!

are these by design? If not, would it make sense to try to close them? Thanks - and have a nice glide into the new year! Guus.

Thanks to the fantastic advice here I could it fix it without any drilling or damage to the ski. The EZ Out looked bigger on the pics, I could get a set for 7.50 and that easily got out the bad insert. Then the insert-nut-nut-screw construction, protected nut and screw from the epoxy with some vaseline (hoped that also worked as release agent), put some epoxy in the hole and on the insert, and screwed it in. Could have added more epoxy in the hole, with hindsight. But this should be ok now. Added some pics of the fixing and fix: https://goo.gl/photos/zksAcYNRFpHog8RY7 Thanks so much! Huge expertise here, such a pleasure! Guus.

I guess what happened is that when fastening the binding, the screw got stuck in the insert and the entire thing started to rotate and drilled itself deeper into the ski. I'm going to try epoxying a screw to the insert first, see if i can reverse rotate it out. Thanks Gloersen, Thanks all for the advice!

Opening the hole / making it larger, seems to be the only way forward. I have a pillar drill, probably the best choice for that.

I added 2 more pics to the same album: https://goo.gl/photos/zksAcYNRFpHog8RY7 Can't imagine how a dental pick would allow me to screw it out. A screw extractor, I checked some pics of those on google, would't reach the insert without destroying the carbon. I noticed on the new inserts I purchased, one one side of them, there are some entries for a screw driver, but on the quantum ski, these are not visible on the other inserts that are in the ski.

Hi, I already read some excellent posts about repairing inserts, but I'm not sure how to proceed with my problem. The front-binding left back insert of my quantum dynamic 2015 trick ski was loose, lost the screw and nut. I got a new screw and new insert (and some nuts) and I thought I'd just epoxy the thing (following all the excellent instructions like using the nut and screw to seal the insert, or maybe replace the insert if needed) and I'd be fine, but somehow its always more difficult when you actually have to do it :) Here's a picture of what I'm looking at: https://goo.gl/photos/zksAcYNRFpHog8RY7 The insert is deep down the hole. Getting it out seems impossible without making the hole bigger. Any tips much appreciated. Thanks, Guus.