ReallyGottaSki

I concur with @jjackkrash, likely prop singing

Excalibur was placed in many vdrives 

@ETskier that would be 86+

My friend had an 87, composites looked nicely executed 

That one ran extra heavy, the cavity fill foam must have been quite wet

I can remark Pre '86 supremes have the bulk of foam in the extreme bow and in the gunnels. very little below floor, just a couple 2x4 strips

One doesn't have to make it float like a Whaler met a chain saw, just make it recoverable.

Any coosa used in the new construction  will also add substantial floatation volume.

And pool noodles under the floor can be strung with nylon rope to make them removeable 

13 hours ago, epnault said:

Well based on my dismal results with the MasterCraft tips my neighbor with an 09 197 ordered the FAE. He learns from my pain but his boat is really load.  Something about that model year 197.   
 

Anyways I am trying to figure out additional solutions for improvement with what I have.  Since I have the tips what do you guys think about adding some additional length with  rubber/silicone pieces like this?   Just hose clamp them in and cut to the length at the water line at plane?  Maybe cut slots in them to relieve forces on the tips?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T3QTP6C/ref=sspa_mw_detail_6?psc=1&pf_rd_p=e21b1d9f-5b60-462f-8a31-00c727a694eb&pf_rd_r=D38MPF3V7WXMFYDHMGF3&pd_rd_wg=GmdMw&pd_rd_w=C4HOn&content-id=amzn1.sym.e21b1d9f-5b60-462f-8a31-00c727a694eb&pd_rd_r=4ab1fe4a-1233-4e1a-9185-ae857047335f&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

 

Thanks for the input - Eric

 

Eric, like you alluded to, reinforced silicon material are what many of us have done , earlier in this thread, with very good results.   Most images have been lost

yes, in your case now with the tips,, with less total material to flex, after the main cut even with the running surface, i suggest slitting the cut edge so each segment can  flex individually and conform to the water flow off the bottom as its angle changes.

btw what mufflers are in the boat at the moment?

I could a bit Dan,

Its quite the engine.  five years ago it was a 38 yo tired 351 about to drop a valve.   I didn't have the means to overbore and pistons for a fresh seal, but compression was still good.

I gave the lower fresh bearings, seals, timing chain, oil pump.    Camshaft clevite 214/224 112 lsa   modest .480 lift.

upper is twisted wedge 170 as -cast runners , with machined combustion chambers at 58cc.  with the stock pistons CR is now 9.3

lifters from lunati, scorpion std 1.6 rockers, and i measured for the right pushrods

Intake is Edel performer, due to height couldn't go bigger.  but i port matched to the heads.

Front cover is now aluminum, so running a johnson crank pump (can i say that?) vs the sherwood. 

found some ss commander manifolds from the eighties.

all told 141# off the engine

lets just say it gives 'spirited' performance

its weight to HP exceeds a new prostar with the 6.2, by a whole integer

digest these times and distances, and extrapolate what time and distance to 36 may be. 

it does all this on 87 gas, and uses less of it than all the boats we ski.

And the colors came out a bit, steampunk

Boat will do 49.5 with three aboard. its done 52.5, but i think it was getting air on one side.

it could use bigger carburation so it likely has more in it.

I would build similar in a moment.

some day it will get the right pistons and zero-decked,  but till then, 

Just backing up visuals to the engine extraction step, because

Lately progress has just been just repeatedly confirming measurements before committing to the stringer shaping

@DvarianDan Johnson no blushing problems yet.

On the response we used totalboat without issues, on its floor.

Then i got system 3 supplies for the supreme. We ended up first using that system 3  on the outboard Sanger barefoot, floor encapsulation, and coosa bulkheads. All from my regional fiberglass supplier.

Lately we did the  stern of the supreme, using up the remainder of the totalboat.

Remainder of the supreme will be system 3

Im happy with it, because its basically odor free compared to the totalboat. I think my face looked flushed last time i finished up the totalboat. System 3 no reaction 

@DvarianDan Johnson 

In my case i suspect it was shere neglect and open elements, and some leaks that were not chased down promptly.

In others, the bond between the hull and stringer system lets water through the seam that makes the hds box, then travels through the hollow stringers, wet bilge, eventually more and more infiltrates the foam

The stringer system is molded much ike a separate boat, looks like a small pickle fork boat flipped upside down, then bonded to the hull. 

Thank you Chris,

Indeed.  that Image you see is at 29mph. 

Appears to be a solid lamination so far, free of voids

Adjusted trailer so the Borrowed laser level can set a consistent floor height based on best fig'rin.this step critical to get the stacked heights correct for the top of stringers to be right after scribing them to the hull so the deck and inner gunnel will all line up again. 

Raw stringer has been laminated. Placed into boat because we just had to see them in the boat.

Precisely sized spacers will keep them true, parallel and square while they are positioned, scribed and shaped.

Its robust foam, and wet. Its volume increases further as it is pulverized. I suspect it would be hard to extract, and i predict a vent cleaner would firstly have not enough torque given the leverage on it, and would be hard to direct.  high volume pressure washer seems the way to go.

Thank you Matt,  

It became a wonderfully driving  and skiing  boat, as good as i could hope.  Last year it saw the pp upgraded, and a 12V pump for the heater, for strong and continuous heat when the engine is off or idling.

It turned into a very quiet boat, no extra noise up through the floor best i can tell.   Normal-voice dialog is all thats needed underway at ski speeds.

Quietness has been pursued with a pair of downturn 'snufflers', engine box insulation, and lastly foam floor squares wrapped around the mufflers, because the original rubber strips always move about, then one ends up with the muffler direct on the hull. 

I'm confident that all with my other noise -abatements, i would now notice an issue with water noise from the hull/floor if it was there. So I am not missing the foam.

Wake, yes.  i think the boat performs like they did when fresh new. the platform rose from licking the water when i bought it, to 2" above the water now.

Wake is very good,   I'll close with some working pictures at 29mph and 34 mph. Holeshot is respectable, nothing freaklike my modified supreme. but still my ski pals still ask for a progressive, partial throttle  start else give  any more they object.  the 515 prop remains just right

Next batch

IMG_5962.heic

Pylon bracket was heavy steel, and pylon was seized into its lower cup.

We had this aluminum bracket and ss lower cup fabbed locally

First bonding of 8 footers in the stringer lamination

Just occurred to me 🙄i could just append to repopulate the pictures to make this thread useful for others.. 

welcome @mikerev800

@DvarianDan Johnson thank you, i can appreciate your enthusiasm!

@Dano  Yes, Coosa for stringers, laminated 3/4 bluewater 26.   I will do 2 ply everywhere with a third ply for 6' long from behind trans to ahead of the pylon

No, coosa does not accept lags or hold screws well like wood does. i don't have a complete solution for the vertical lags yet, but will now also utilize the holes that transverse the stringers for  through-bolt fasteners, these mount fasteners were often omitted 

I considered an aluminum cradle for a time but have not dismissed it entirely yet

here is my drawings and cut plan for the stringer coosa.

one note is it suggests one can fab stringers for a 19'  ss/mc/centurian or similar from a single sheet of 3/4. An sn could need wider cuts than a single sheet can provide

my third ply necessitates getting into a second sheet of 3/4

Transom, plywood removed and ground down

Bottom section, first traced onto paper with a sharpie, cut the 1/2 coosa with jig saw and routered a 3/8 radius bevel 

here wetted with 2:1 , then thickened epoxy sandwiched and clamped with throughbolts and fender washers, wood blocks 

Upper section of 1/2" bonded similarly, then filleted the next day.  the 1/2 bluewater 26 conforms to the transom arc well with a little clamp pressure. 

next day, 1708 cut and bonded. For a good layup the 1708 is so dense it first needs the substrate  wetted, then its chopstrand side wetted, then of course its topside wetted.  polyester would sink though the fibers fast but epoxy not so and would result in a dry layup.

the transom firmed right up solid  after this 

The doubling at strategic locations did not need precision cuts,  and the rudder reinforcement was duplicated. similarly bonded with thickened epoxy, filleted, and glassed in one evening.

Deck came off last spring, but then the hull sat outside for rest of the year.

Here it was brought inside and the floors were zipped off. 

An oscillating tool is the best low-dust, fast solution for demo, just chase the blade with the shop vac as one goes.

Stringers removed similarly

All fittings removed, Grindy grind grind

Thank you both,

@eleeski I don't see using zo on this, but will get pp w/zbox.   The engine is enhanced, snappy responsive with strong midrange , the boat is light, i hear this is a combination that works well together with that system. 

here is the link to that RCB build.

I had just started rebuilding the images after the site migration, but then suddenly the thread was no longer editable, i regret not acting quicker.