ReallyGottaSki

I use a discarded propshaft that provides a good mix of leverage, accessibility to pryable locations, and control.

used this, foil faced, with success, and would use again https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V6T96PT/

Yep. everything, except machining and sewing, but may explore the latter in the future

Scored an LM4 all aluminum 5.3 out of a trailblazer for 600its fogged and in the shed waiting as backup, or for a fresh projectWith a smartly chosen cam and springs, trunnion upgrade if desired, its good for 350-360hp all day longHorsepower has never been this cheap guys, get them while they last before they are turned into soda cans

Im always in awe how promptly he gets lined up and back on the power after the apex, for insane acceleration and cross-wake speeds

it was a great summer

Not on the vinyl, it makes microabrasions that give mold an even better grip to grow in. after you address the mold apply 303 to seal out the yuck

Appears the 200ProXS is the same v8 package as the 300, looks tall and heavy

Pro Tip! Dont google "Maine Weed Sticker" at work

I can concur that the windshield is clear and stays so within the first 1/2 mile of running in the mornings, 530-6 am in my case old speaker holes were covered with 1/8" HDPE and 3" outlet installed, one of the heater outlets teed to the two dash outlets

@Deke , welp seems at these diameters, its no longer inconsequential costs like the 3-4" stuff but here was my source https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-5-and-half-inch-silicone-90-degree-elbow-coupler-hose-high-temp-reinforced-140mm

I concur, plenty of meat there to grind. too bad the rcb outlets are so unnecessarily large. 140mm/5.5" ID silicon elbows are scarce I thought up of a name for these things,,, snufflers

140mm 4ply elbows installed on the rcb, trimmed and tested this week The hard droning we here in the boat from under the platform is gone I'm certain the neighbors they point at each morning find it positive

Without the bf plate, they ski pretty good I thought. Ride is nice too Here is 28 off behind a friend's '93

perhaps we havn't confirmed if Cameron would find the PP w/ zbox adequate for his needs, maybe he doesn't know that exists? Or truly looking for zo as-written

Your in the right direction since the last snip but still kinda riding it like a surfboard, eg just pushing down, loosey goosey. stiffen up isometrially, and control not only your core but also your legs, control amount of extension by engaging the back of your leg not just the front, and fully control the ski. this also reinforces the knee Hips forward, put your chest inbetween your upper arms till you can feel it there Your front-leg torso angle is still closed down. open it up to beyond flat, 181 degrees, that is what locks the hip joint so you don't fold on the bump, pull-out, nor cut. Sometimes whats missed in beyond-beginner instruction is the amount of tension in the legs and core to control the ski's attitude and angles with high precision, especially in the wakes

Thanks for sharing, cool stories! Incidently i'm skiing on one of Jamie's old sticks, looks to be a 2006 Enjoy your new V!

Right you are Pat, sunrise service Wake at 430 in my case Still encounter bassholes cutting us off once a week

Some finale pictures to share, it does everything well It works as advertised, bilge is dry, just a few tweaks, need more dead spot in throttle after engagement, and the 449 is coming off, the 515 going back on . fuel gauge needs troubleshooting The defroster eliminates the condensation off the windshield half way down the first pull, very happy with that mod

@2Valve Oh rat farts!!

Whoops ?

Thank you men! @Kevin89MC thats brave to sew, tempting, maybe i'll prictice that skill on the next project This only looks good due to Gabe's crew providing me very nice skins! no, no way to check without drilling the floor somehow. BUT, openings are easy to cover up afterwards in certain locations... under the rear fuel tank, can be opened 5-6" and a simple, non screw-opening access panel can be siliconed and screwed afterwards, no fiber glassing. its barely 1/8" high. the floor psi from above in that area is minimal, so the loss of structure is non-consequential. forward in the tunnel is the lowest part in the boat, good place to check. under the driver's seat, passenger seat, is a good place to bore as well. an access port can simply cover the hole, as its not walkable area. also serves as a good inspection plate for me now. When you bore forward of the pylon, seat areas on the sides, just make certain the pilot drill is not running deep, as the hull -to-floor is not much distance. also beware the stringers are wider than they look from above, so give them room

Indeed Just another morning before work in ma Will get to rip up Maine water next month

Just a few little odds and ends left tonight to do Trunk closes tight like ojs glove, gaps came out right on target