BrianKennedy91

Occasionally the Geese make a few ripples

My number is 704-985-5314

Looking for regular ski partners. Slalom course on private lake. Only requirement is a positive attitude. Russellville Alabama

I’m an hour west of Huntsville. 4 lane Hwy all the way to my site. You are welcome to come ski with me.

I know this thread was specific to “Pro Tourneys” but I’m surprised Hank Longo’s name has been mentioned. I always enjoyed hearing him at Regionals and Nationals.

Poured mine 14’x130’ x 4” thick, rebar, wire mesh and fiber in the mix. Poured before we finished the lake. Used the boat trailer hooked to my truck to check that my slope correct before I graded to make sure the slope was as flat as possible and still float the boat and allow me to be able to step out of the truck on dry land. One mistake. Now that I have the boathouse built I would not have built a pier beside the boat ramp. Even at 14’ wide I’m going to have to fold up one of the side curtains on the jump to get it in past the pier. $3,500 material and labor to form and pour in October 2018.

Keep in mind, the flatter the slope the further you have to sink the truck to float it off the trailer. Sinking the truck means you’re stepping out in water if loading or unloading by yourself.

Do you think it would be possible to dig into the leak from the backside and pack it with clay patching the leak?

I actually like the color of both SN listed above. For me the issue is the 5.7 engine. Saw so much discussion about the 6.0 engine being better in that hull. Not sure if it’s really that big of a deal but I’m definitely still looking for answers.

Brian, Thank you for your inquiry regarding AdvanTech subflooring. Although AdvanTech has superior water resistance, it is intended for interior use in conditioned spaces. AdvanTech is an exposure 1 rated panel which is not designed to be permanently exposed to the exterior environment. The water resistance is designed to prevent dimensional changes or structural degradation if exposed to weather during the construction process. For your application, we recommend the use of marine grade plywood. Marine grade plywood, or an otherwise exterior rated product, is designed to be permanently exposed to weather and moisture. Please contact us with additional questions or concerns. Nick Sabol Huber Engineered Woods Product Application Specialist nicholas.sabol@huber.com (704) 731-2673

Tax man is a different issue all together. Engineering guidelines, I can promise you if I build it it will be very well planned out and way more overkill than any building code. Most boathouse structures In the last 30 years on public lakes I have seen are restricted to guidelines set forth by the power companies that control the shoreline and their shoreline management plans. Most of the boathouses in the last 30 years I have seen that gal under shoreline management plans are restricted to open structures so finding a builder with knowledge of design dealing with moisture in floor system construction over water has been difficult.

Boathouse is being built on my ski lake, not public water.

Anyone else out there got any suggestions?

I am building a new fully enclosed double slip boathouse with a livable space inside. I am looking for advise on how to build the floor system in the enclosed room portion that might be the best due to being over the water. I am concerned about rot and moisture. I have the floor system already framed with 2x12 treated floor joist at 16" on center. I'm wondering if I should put down a layer of tyvek on the joist, then deck with 3/4 treated plywood, then maybe some 1/2" Hardi cement board on top of that. I am getting so many different opinions from house builders but none of them have any experience with a structure directly over the water. One guy said 3/4 T&G Advantech OSB would actually be better than 3/4 treated plywood but i'm not so sure about that. My plan is to frame wood walls on top of the floor and use 3/12 pitch gable roof trusses 19.2" OC designed to carry the weight of the boats with a center support between the two slips. For the roof i plan on putting 7/16" OSB then foam sheeting and seamless tin roof. I am looking to start putting the flooring on top of my joist next weekend so any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.......

Ski community is pretty small world and I think we all consider each other ski family. Small ticket items I would trust a handshake deal. Boats and big items would definitely take a trip to check it out. I have had great experiences buying on SIA. Again, I consider skiers in general to be top notch crowd and a dying breed.

Do we get a trophy or a medal for showing up?

I agree, open up Regionals & Nationals to anyone who sends an entry this year.

Brian Kennedy Lake Russellville, AL

Any suggestions on best type of grease for this application?

I took the tube loose from the bracket ant put it on the cable and slid it back and forth on the cable just as it would move through it when everything is assembled and functioning during operation. When I hold the cable and slide the tube over the steering cable by hand it seems to have more friction than it should and my gut says it feels and sounds like the grease is to thick or the wrong kind.

Noticed the steering getting tight on 91 prostar 190. Automatically assumed it needed a new steering cable. Purchased new one from Discount Onboard Marine and installed it. Still same issue with new cable. Removed cable from rudder and checked the rudder and it turned freely as it should. Next removed the helm and disassembled it to check gears for issues and found none. In fact I was surprised that the year old gears looked like brand new so I removed what looked like some old and hardened grease then reassembled and installed back on boat. Boat has a tilt wheel so I checked the universal in the tilt for problems prior to installing the gearbox and found no issues. So now I inserted the steering cable through the tube that attaches to the floor right in front of the rudder and bolted to rudder and checked the steering again and it is still tight with more friction than it should have. So as I turn the steering wheel back and forth watching the rudder and cable function I started to question the possibility that it could be an issue with the type of grease I have used over the years to grease the tube that holds the cable. Seems like everything moves smoothly but seems to have a “tacky” feeling like the grease I’ve been using in the tube is to thick. I will admit I have always just grabbed the grease gun and greased the cable with cheap wheel bearing grease. At this point I’m considering trying to wipe and clean all grease from the cable and tube and possibly the helm and spraying it with some slick silicone just to test and see if it helps. To more understand what I’m attempting to gain that I just can’t get back to. We have always used this boat for 3 event skiing so a lot of turning around picking up trickers and rudder is ground and has a lot of torque for slalom driving. I used to be able spin the wheel with one finger all day long picking up trickers and in the slalom course if you let go of the wheel it would immediately throw the boat in a hard right turn due to the added torque I ground on the rudder. Now I want to point out that the steering moves properly that to the normal driver that is used to steering a runabout on a public lake or to a person that understands simple mechanics of gears and the difference in something working and Something that about to be an issue. Now you have to use plenty of effort to turn the wheel and if you let go of the wheel going straight Down the lake it continues straight as if there was no torque on the rudder. To a person used to driving a really free turning 3 event boat I just can’t seem to get it back where it used be. Again, I’m wondering if the grease I’m using is what is causing the problem. Anyone else had any experience with this type of issue?

What about zippier replacement?