iGOTit

I have 9EEE and have been in hardshells for 20 years. First Goode and then Reflex. Best move ever. I run the foot buckles fairly snug and the calf buckle on the loose side.

Agreed. It's a good ideal to keep tension off all the components when not in use. Just helps the life of them. I've been in hardshells for 20 years and have had a few bindings break on me. Lucky me, no injuries. My old Silvretta 404 broke at the crossbar weld once and another time sheared the pivot rivet off from the mounting plate. Another time the spring got rusty and broke. The culprit is usually rust fatigue. Any sign of rust on the mounting rail, I put a new coat of paint and replace that small M4 pivot screw that holds on my Reflex 840 annually. Both cheap insurance.

I third it, with what Horton and jjackrash said about the myth of slower speeds need wider skis for the course. My wife and I both went into Vapor Pros this season and would give up our first born before giving up our Vapors! My wife is 67 years old and skis the course at 26-28 mph and I have ALWAYS had her on slightly wider skis. Her last ski was a 65” 2019 Syndicate Omni. But in spring this year my neighbor’s daughter got a new ski and told us to try her old 65” 2017 Vapor Pro. WOW! What a difference! Now my wife starts off the dock at 29 mph and running her 30.4 mph. What a game changer! As for myself, I tuned 65 years old in July this year and at the end of last season I started skiing on a Syndicate Omni getting ready to ski at old mans speed this year. So when I started skiing this season, I decided not to torment myself and ski at 32 mph. I also went into a Senate Pro. Buoy count was same as it has been for the past few years at 22-28 off and a rare 32 off. But my same neighbor got a new ski and told me to try his 2020 Vapor Pro. And WOW, the same results as my wife. Now I’m skiing 22-32 off and running 32 off each set. Never thought I’d do that. I believe wider high performance skis are good for open water skiers and beginners new to the course. If you have decent body position, keep your ski speed up and let the ski ski, you will better off on a regular ski.

Thank you all for all your valuable input! I've been reading this forum for years but only this year decided to join and post on it. What a GREAT FORUM!! I cancelled my inspection appointment with the dealer for tomorrow. I agree with Bdecker. A transfer fee should only be a $200 max. to cover the administrative cost. At $1200 and a very limited extended warranty they are just hosing the next guy.

What's your opinion? I just bought a used 2018 SN 200 6.0L with 70 hrs. Nautique cost to transfer the Base/Engine warranty is $1200 plus mandatory detailed dealer inspection which will cost $400 plus. I will be passing on the $400 Hull/Deck warranty. Transferable warranty will have 3 years remaining on the original 5 years warranty. I'm looking into it right now but I believe as the 2nd owner, it's a parts only warranty. Dealers shop rate is $150 hr. so if I have a warranty problem labor cost can really get up there quick$$$$. My previous 2003 OB 196 was super reliable. I owned it for 17 years and put 1020 hrs. on the boat and it NEVER saw the dealership. So do I role the dice and not get it? Or just suck it up and buy it for peace of mind. I can justify the expense with the rest of my auto, home, business and workers comp insurance that go unused. But, a new Linc Display does run $4000 and the previous owner already had one replaced! (I might of already answered my own question??)

I just did the hinge area a few days ago on my 2003 SN. Upper clam shell had 3 of 5 studs break out of the plastic. I took off the black edge trim, pulled the staples and slide a .093 x 1" x 15" SS plate with welded in 1/4"-20 x 3/4" long SS studs and epoxied in it on the back side underneath the upholstery. I used the plate because the pulled flat head screws caused too much damage to the surrounding plastic. Staples won't go back in so I used contact cement to reattach the vinyl. Be sure to only apply it to the bottom 3/4" where the black trim lays. Also tape it down with black electrical tape. It really helps to push the black edging back on. Last, I suggest you use nylon lock nuts to bolt it back to the hinge. That way you don't have to over tighten everything to keep it together. That's why it broke it the first place!