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astrick

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  1. Okay, thanks. I'll look for a zerk. There are metal support beams that support that tank. I have the tank jacked up, but the metal is in the way. Hard to imagine getting in there to remove the rudder, if that seems necessary. I imagine if I poke around long enough, I'll find a way to remove the support system - that would help. Thanks for the tip!
  2. I am replacing my steering cable due to stiff steering. I disconnected the cable from the tiller arm and confirmed the steering wheel was still stiff. So, I need a cable for sure. However, the grabbing the rudder from below and moving it left and right manually also seemed stiff. "How stiff", you ask? I can barely move it with one finger, but it takes some effort. I don't know if this is normal or not. I know it's just a greasing rope for a bearing, and it's about 50 degrees outside. Getting the bolt off the tiller arm was bad enough. I'm hoping I don't also have to try to repack the rudder too. Any thoughts, oh wise ones?
  3. @Ski2000 Don't s'pose you live in Wisconsin!? Ha! The composite of all these comments is starting to make sense to me. I'm a little surprised there is so little consensus around how often one should change a cable. I have had the experience of breaking a cable while skiing. So, I know first hand that it happens. The boat wasn't that old.
  4. @Jody_Seal and @SteveB are saying to completely remove the tank, but @Ski2000 above says you avoid removing the tank by jacking it up and blocking it and reaching underneath. Does that make sense? If I can avoid disconnecting stuff, wouldn't that be easier? Maybe that's a minor detail. Not sure.
  5. A couple of different perspectives, but I'm hearing I need to be greasing it AND replacing it once every few years. My boat has 700 hrs on it, but it sounds like the years are just as important as the mileage. Where are the grease zerts? Obviously, I can look around, but if someone can say where to look, that'd be handy. Again, it's a 2001 SN 196CB. Thanks again guys!
  6. Someone asked why I think I need a new cable. The steering is a bit stiff and the previous owner said he owned the boat for over 10 years and never replaced it. In my general boating experience, steering cable replacement is a predictable maintenance item. I am going to disconnect the cable and check the rudder first, but anticipate the cable will need replacing.
  7. Guys, this was super helpful. I was able to pull out the access panels and see how I can lift the tank to get to the rudder. Unfortunately, the gas tank is full, so I don't want to try to lift it now. Also the carpeted cover over the tank only seems to be removable if you remove the upholstered side panels on one side. So, I'm going to do this in a couple of months when I need to remove one of those panels anyway, and I can plan to burn down the gas before I start. Thanks to you all, I think I'm ready! Thanks a ton!
  8. BTW, a local shop told me they charge $1000 for a cable replacement. The part is $200. I'm hoping this is the right cable-> https://www.mniboats.com/19-5-Foot-Nautique-Boat-Steering-Cable-90590-p/90590.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw6dmSBhBkEiwA_W-EoKteP1YOt7LDX1BBXfX_fKdIXsd2zGwcqJwMfi2IB35Rb76Ij8bCdxoCb0gQAvD_BwE
  9. Thanks Edmund. Is the 98 a bubble-butt like mine? I just realized today that the rear most carpeted panel above the rear portion of the gas tank also comes out. With the sliding rear seat back removed, I think I might have have better access to the rudder connection from above, behind the gas tank. Though it looks like the rudder might be under the tank, but I'm not sure. How was your's? I'll check that out later today. Good tip on the photos. On a different post, they recommend attaching a rope to the free end of the cable and pulling it through and then using the rope to pull the new cable in from bow to stern. At a shop I talked to, they recommended cutting the bow end of the old cable, attaching it to the stern end of the new one and using the old cable to pull the new cable into place. What did you do? Do you have a recommendations on that?
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