boarditup

Here is the details: Get a fake-a-lake - it is a plunger with a hose connection. Run the engine on the fake-a-lake attached to a flowing water supply. I use hot water because I am impatient. In any case, get it hot enough for the thermostat to open. Verify by feeling the various hoses for heat. Shut off engine. Shut off water, swap to a 6-foot section of gardent hose with a large funnel taped to the cut end. Fill with pink anti-freeze and restart motor so that it draws in the anti-freeze though the entire motor. Verify hot pink anti-freeze discharging out of the exhaust. Figure on 5-6 gallons. Then shut off engine. Change the oil and filter. There are two brass plugs on each side of the block. Remove and allow the anti-freeze to drain. Use a dental pick type scraper to loosen the sediment that builds up in that area (Harbor Freight has an inexpensive set, or a bobby pin if in a pinch). There are plugs in the exhaust manifolds that should also be drained and removed. Sediment sometimes builds up in there. I use PB Blaster for fogging oil. If your butterfly plate on your throttle body has a small hole in it, remove the coil wire and spray PB Blaster through the hole while turning over the motor. That is the best way to fog. If not, spray into each spark plug hole for about 5-seconds. After all have been sprayed, turn over the motor 2-3 revolutions. Replace the coil wire. Remove impeller and store in plastic bag with a few ounces of fresh anti-freeze. Tape to steering wheel. Purchase fresh gasket for the spring. If you have a heater, remove the upper hose and blow through it while the block drain plugs are out. Fill hose with anti-freeze and repeat twice. Blow out any residual and reconnect hose. I put the plugs back in the block, some put them in the bag with the impeller and replace in the spring. Your call. You just saved $200 and have a well winterized boat motor. Good job.

For engine fogging, I use PB Blaster. It creeps into rusted bolt threads to loosen nuts, so it should creep and coat the cylinder walls fairly well. I've used it for over 15 years on several boats and it seems to do the job - although I've never pulled a head, yet.

I have wrap around safety glasses treated with Rain-X for skiing and driving in the rain. When I skied on public water, we skied every time we could in the rain so we could get flat water.

As a former Coastie and an older boat owner (for a while) I am a bit sensitive about alcohol in the fuel. I've had fuel lines collapse, a tank bottom rust out, rebuilt a carb twice, and run through a few fuel pumps. I've towed in several boats that suffered from water in the tank - most just after the switch to alcohol laden fuels in the area. From my experience, it is worth the extra $50 a season for recreational gasoline and some Sta-Bil. As for octane, match the engine recommendations. Most marine engines are OK even on 85 octane - that is what is available in some parts of the world. My time on the water is very important. I like the boat starting up and running strong every time - even if it sits for a few weeks due to travel. It is just cheap insurance.

If you can get ethanol free, that works great to keep water from collecting at the bottom of the tank. If you cannot get it, use blue Sta-Bil frequently to keep everything running well.

I had the anchors used for holding utility poles upright spun in by a utility contractor. I had a surveyor mark the locations both before and after. The anchors I used have a threaded top for the rope attachment. I had a couple that were off by less than 4" due to the auger walking a bit when they first started to spin them in. I had an angle-aluuminum adapter punched out to allow for a bit adjustment on those. It worked well and I've had a few R tournaments since and have never had an adjustment issue.

BFA - Backfire Flame Arrestor - think metal air filter. Since the boat likely does not have a filter on it, but a BFA, they can and do clog up with gunk quickly. I wash mine out with dish soap and then hit it with carb cleaner. The throttle body on boats gets more dust and gunk in it than an automotive throttle body since the BFA is a very coarse filter. So, more frequent cleaning is needed. The second filter, depending upon model, may be where the fuel line attaches to the throttle body - it is a fine screen. If it is there and black, you have fuel lines being eroded by the alcohol into the fuel stream causing high-volume runability issues. You can substitute a K&N air filter for the BFA on most boats (check clearance). If you use blue Sta-Bil or recreational gasoline it protects your fuel lines from the alcohol.

Acme 525 is the best prop for your boat. Did you check your fuel filters (yes, there are typically 2)? The throttle body may be dirty. Clean it out with cleaner and a toothbrush. Clean out the BFA. I have seen the Merc fuel lines collapse at high flow. I had to replace a set due to alcohol swelling - fixed the WOT problem.

The lift I have been most impressed with is the ones from Summit Marine in Michigan. Very sturdy, relatively light, good geometry so the hydraulics and pins don't take a beating. Modular, so they are easy to work on and getting parts through normal shipping is not a big deal.

I actually hook up the siphon to the drain tube. I get out virtually all the oil out of the engine that way. It is a lot quicker than waiting for the oil to drain out of the small tube.

I designed a private lake for wakeboarding. It also houses the jump. It is deeper than the slalom specific lakes with a unique bottom shape to let the boat settle in but punch up the wakes at 75-90 feet. There is a very different vibe between 3-event and wakeboarding. Even in a 3-event boat set up for tricking, you don't have 8-10 people jamming to the tunes. 3-event boats have minimal personnel. Personally, I have a wakeboard boat with 2,100 ballast and surf more than anything else - because the kids like it so much. I cannot get them, right now, to sit on the dock or shore and watch slalom waiting for their turn. It is not as much fun as in the boat. As Dad, I really like the kids all around laughing, making videos (Vine), and posting photos to Facebook and Instagram of the rider's run - especially if there is a great yard sale. I like the 2-event format - slalom and wakeboard. Those are the two biggest events, so put them together. I run both, so it works for me. At my age, I don't throw inverts, but I still have fun on the wakeboard. I still prefer slalom. However, I will do whatever I can with my kids around me.

Very good news. Hopefully all Michigan teams did well and we can pack Nationals.

Just heard that the GVSU Waterski Team was 5th at Midwest Regionals is qualified and heading for Nationals. Last year they came in 4th at Nationals in D2, but lost over half of the girls team and the top men's slalom and jumpers to graduation. So, this is a rebuilding year where some skiers learned the course and to jump for the first time this summer. Great job!

Just a note - in many zones 91 octane is pure gasoline - no alcohol. It depends on the EPA attainment zone. Most "recreational gasoline" that does not have alcohol is higher octane, because that is just how it is blended in bulk and shipped from the various refineries. I don't use 91 in the boat just because it is 91, but because it does not have alcohol and it simply runs better without the water in the gas tank that alcohol attracts. When I donate gas, I dontate the good stuff. Just like anything else, if it worth doing or giving, make it good stuff.

MISkier - The Mobil station in town has recreational gasoline that is alcohol-free and 91 octane. It is a bit more expensive, but it works great for the boat. Never an issue running that gas. When I have the Allendale Wakeboard and Waterski Club out, it is $10 per day. The kids got at least 2 pulls per day. When I have guests, they are guests and on my budget. If I go to someone elses lake, I bring along a can of gas with 91 octane recreational gas in it. I figure I would give to them what I would want someone to do for me. Since I only ever ski 4-6 passes, I am always on the upside. When traveling, I will always offer $20. If they refuse, it finds the cupholder or the windshield wiper. I always want to be remembered and polite and generous.

Been skiing for over 40 years - separated rib - not broken - only injury so far. Not even a sprained ankle. Granted, I am still skiing at novice levels, but enjoying every set behind the boat.

Getting the boat detailed this week. Winterized on Sunday. My daughter, who helped with engine fogging again this year said "This is a really sad day." Yes, it is. It is a long time until snowboarding starts - typically 3-months. So we have volleyball season, school work, fall and winter home prep, and general life to keep us occupied and entertained until the water changes form and we can ride again.

I am on Lake Placid - the Placid Waters development - in Allendale, MI. We are about 3 hours north of Ft. Wayne, near Grand Rapids. The course record is 5@41.

The owner is a great guy, but not active on Ball of Spray. He was the former INT Indiana coordinator and has a real passion for growing the sport. If you want a nice place to ski, I am recruiting neighbors..... especially with slalom boats, my boat is an X-2 so the kids can surf.

This is another example of the Pareto Principle. There are the masses (like me) and the genetic freaks like Nate and Chris that have what we call "natural talent." I can likely get to a decent pass if I work hard enough. However, I am extremely unlikely to ever challenge the world record given the best equipment, training, and time available. That said, we all have potential to ski well, or better. It is up to us to unlock how it works best for us. That does not give an excuse to sloppy or dangerous technique, though.

With little use, you may have seals and bearings that may be a bit leaky. Put into the fuel tank a good topside lube (Lucas Oil gas treatment or similar) then, a fresh oil change with some non-synthetic dino oil (Castrol GTX is one) and let it run for an hour on a Fake-a-Lake. Let is set overnight with some papertowels under it. Look for drips. If the crank seals are still good, then everything else is easy to repair. I am in MI, if you want a second opinion, let me know. I think you will be good. Storage for 7-years is not a big deal with the materials used in the motors. We are not using paper and cork much anymore.

Some skiers (people) require external validation of their performance. Some skiers (people) ski for the sheer joy of skiing. My most favorite memories of skiing do not involve an award or a score, but the feel of the ski under my feet and sharing the joy of the other skiers - especially my kids. Most skiers have elements of both at various times. My PB happens to be in a tournament, but that is not my favorite skiing memory.

Around here in MI, I don't see the issue. My 3 slalom courses were laid out and augered into the lake bed by survey. All of the judges I know and have seen have taken their task very seriously and don't play favorites. They do hope you get a PB, but won't cheat for you to get it. I have seen a few junior boat drivers have some difficulty with higher end skiers, but what I have seen is that hurts the score. I have not seen a successful weave, even in practice here. I just don't see the issue. Maybe it exists somewhere, but not the the skiers and judges around here. Solid people with integrity.

I always blow the water out of my nose after getting up. I refuse to wipe my face even if there are remnants so I don't end up with slick gloves. This can lead to interesting photos. I always put in my rear foot first.

Low and on right hip before the turn into the gate. Then low and on the left hip moving into the gate. Being tall, if I have the handle high I tend to break forward at the waist. It tend to ski with the arms bent - taking a strain on both the bicep and forearm.