mlange

Radius handle did the trick for me.  After fighting a golfers elbow for a few years it immediately fixed things up.

I've had the following: 04 RLXi, 12 TXi, 16 TXi, 04 196, 12 200 (current boat)

1. 196/200
2. TXi
3. RLXi

I LOVE my 200 and would never go back to the TXi, but the reality is that both TXi's wake were damn close.  With eyes closed probably can't even tell the difference at the end of the rope.

Thanks @jpwhit  Figured there would be something different w/ the "gates" if we're skiing open water.

@ProStah_Skiah  That's not necessarily what I'm asking.  What I'm wondering is what it will do if you run in tourney or rec mode *without* a mapped course.  Think just open water skiing with ZO.

Looks like it was just the alignment to the gates it was adjusting for.

No reference to cost anywhere that I could find.

My questions are along the same lines as @jjackkrash

Is the speed at the gate different in rec mode?

Similarly, if I am open water skiing (no mapped course) is there a difference?

Either reverse or as  @03RLXi said a breakaway let go and something got wedged in there and had a similar effect.  But good call on the rest of the course not moving at all.

I'm guessing someone swapped it out because they went to dripless years before 2017.  My 2012 has the PSS dripless.

Have added a couple of NOCOs in the past and never had an issue.

Nope.

Did you order from https://reflexwaterskiusa.com/ or https://reflexworld.com?

@h2onhk  Funny because I had the same ah ha moment this year. 

I got it after watching one of Gordon Rathbun's slalom drill videos.  He talked about how critical that timing is for the turn in.  I had watched that same video at least 10 times, but never picked up on that piece of advice until this year.  I have a complete lack of patience and muscle memory from many years of doing it wrong so this is one of my two focuses every time out now.

Completely depends on the lake.  We've lived in two places on our current lake.  In one we would all leave our lifts in year around and no one ever had an issue.  In this part of the lake there was a current that would open up the bay very, very early in the spring.  In the other place we all pull them or they'd all be trashed.  Damage can occur in one of two ways:

1. When the ice moves up/down it catches a horizontal piece of the lift's structure.  So if you do decide to leave it in you 100% want the cradle cranked all the way up so the only pieces of the structure that are in contact w/ the ice are the four corner down tubes.

2. When the wind moves the ice pack come spring it moves the lift with it and trashes it altogether.

One thing a buddy of mine does is leaves a bubbler in during the winter.  He's in a protected cove, but does this for a little extra insurance.   Gotta be careful if you're going to have kids on the ice.  Wouldn't never want to do a bubbler if kids want to skate or play out there.

Got this from PCM.  Hopefully it helps someone else in the future.  Only thing I'll need to do different is put the manifold/riser on at the same time as there's no easy way to get to one of the riser nuts otherwise.

Surprised as just how low the torque is on the riser.  

Ok guys.  New stuff here tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes.

ONE BIG QUESTION... I can't find anywhere the torque specs for the riser to exhaust manifold.  Looks like exhaust manifold to block is ~25 ft lbs.  Don't want to over tighten the riser and crush the gasket.  Anyone know what it should be?

@DWGot the gaskets that Nautique Parts listed.

Thanks for the recommendation NOT to use a palm sander.

@BraceMaker  I'm just going off the picture on the web site...

Thinking about using a palm sander with 80 grit and then switching to 200-ish.  Feels like it would be a lot easier than a razor blade @jpwhit

Thx!  Recommendation on best way to do that?

Need to do a new exhaust manifold and riser on a PCM 6L.  New stuff coming from Nautique Parts and from the pictures it looks like they are completely painted with no bare metal surfaces.

Should I be getting rid of the paint on the mated surface?  Or can I just slap the gasket in there, bolt it all together and go?

Someone responded to your post on Malibucrew.

WerFamily Power Symbol 12V Blue LED 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 1NO 1NC SPDT ON/OFF Waterproof Stainless Steel Metal Round with Wire Socket Plug

Looks like that one is a couple of weeks out, but it's a piece of cake to replace so you could get a black one delivered tomorrow and always get the stainless one later on if it does the trick.

On my old '12 TXi I had an issue where the boat would intermittently just shutdown.  Could be choppy, could be glass.  Ended up being that blue power switch.

Your issues sound different, but that switch is cheap (you can find them online) and it's a quick swap out so wouldn't hurt to try.

You need Diacom.  If you can't get it done locally you can also send it directly into PCM and they will turn it around quickly.  The service advisory has the information.

No.

NRG R2

It has the larger PP display so I'm going to guess it's a 2006. 

2004 had the single line PP display.

Ugh.  Already threw them out.  I agree that the gap shouldn't have been a difference maker here.