mlange

I've had a RLXi, a RTXi and currently have a 200. The 200 is definitely more weight sensitive. I have two of these and it makes a world of difference. You quickly learn where to put them based on who is in the boat. I usually have one in the passenger storage compartment and one outside that I can quickly pick up and move around when we switch skiers and weight changes.

 

https://www.amazon.com/BALLASTExtra-Lb-Weight-Wakesurf-Surfing-Warranty/dp/B01LI2HK9W

Agreed. I think whatever you think would be better for you... do it.

 

I went to a 13" a few years back because in the back of my demented head I feel like if my hands are a full inch further apart that I clearly have a "wider" and more stable stance. It's a mind game I like to play with myself.

You guys are limiting your thinking to course skiing where you "know" where the skier should generally be from boat position in some way, shape or form. That doesn't help for video outside the course. The "stitch together" idea is an interesting one for that part of the problem.

If you're going w/ a team edition you want a 2012+ so you get LINC 2

So what is going to happen to our already over-taxed power grid when all this happens?

What are we going to do when all those batteries hit their end-of-life?

 

We're just swapping out one problem for another. "Green" comes in different shapes and forms, but don't be fooled into thinking that electric vehicles fixes all our problems.

My 2012 RTXi was wrapped for the Malibu Open. here's a couple of pics that show how it was wrapped vs. the water line if it helps.

 

 

 

 

Could always wrap it.

Scorpioned footing when I was in high school. At 51 I now have a herniated disc and need to see a chiropractor regularly.

Here's a post I did on Malibucrew when I was fighting through this on a 2012 Indmar. Some of this is down right basic, some is more convoluted. Some is specific to Indmar. But maybe there's something in here that will help as well.

 

I've been fighting a cooling issue for the last three years on my 6.0 and thought I'd share a list of literally everything I went through that helped to solve the problem. This goes from incredibly trivial stuff to the more interesting. Most of the information was pulled from different threads on here so THANKS to everyone over the last three years that provided assistance.

 

And don't give up. In my case I had three separate problems that all contributed to my issue so when I found one and thought I was good to go I got frustrated that the problem didn't go away.

 

Make sure the raw intake valve is completely open.

Make sure all hose clamps are tight. Probably easiest to just trace from the raw water intake through the entire system and check for loose hose clamps along the way.

Make sure the transmission cooler screen is clean.

Make sure the impeller is good.

Make sure the shaft seal is NOT plumbed into the transmission cooler. Mine was plumbed in wrong here. On an L96 the transmission cooler is on the vacuum side of the cooling system so if the shaft seal is plumbed into the transmission cooler you’ll suck air. If it is plumbed into the transmission cooler you can get a brass plug to screw into the transmission cooler and a T from your dealer to plumb the shaft seal into the correct place.

Make sure the vent line to transom is clean. On the transom you’ll see a little metal port about the size of a button on your jeans. After running the engine and shutting down it will continue to vent water like its peeing for a few minutes. If it isn’t venting water it’s plugged up. There’s a hose that will run to the top of the engine. Take that hose off and blow it out with compressed air. Mine was plugged up.

If you have a heater make sure the heater circulating pump is running. You will get heat even if it isn’t running so don’t make any assumptions based solely on if you have heat. If it isn’t running first check the fuse for it. I had an inline fuse, which was blown. If you don’t have an inline fuse Peter from Smooth Water Sports has said it will use the Fuel Pump #2 fuse in the fuse block on top of the engine. If the fuse is good the pump itself may be bad. I had both a blown fuse and a bad pump.

Make sure the thermostat is good.

Make sure the temp sensor is good. Hopefully someone else can chime in on an easy way to test it.

Check your engine serial number. Indmar published Service Bulletin SB2012-3IN to address a cooling issue with the L96 motor. It affects 2012 and 2013 L96 (6.0) and LS3 (6.2) engines with tube and tube exhaust manifolds and 7-digit serial numbers before serial number 2249300.

I'm interested in Jody's comment on the heater. On the Indmars there's a separate circulation pump for the heater and if that goes bad it can cause an overheat, but I didn't think PCM used a circulation pump.

If you message your email address I can send you a PDF w/ the update instructions.

 

I also have the firmware for a 2012 and 2013 that I can send you. I've switched back-n-forth playing with both the Mapple Icon firmware and the regular firmware for the fun of it and it's real simple to do. Nautique will be nice enough to provide the firmware if you need it for another year. Just need to email them.

You talking specifically the newer SN? Every boat is going to have it's good/bad lengths and speeds, but it does sound like the newer SN bad a nastier side to it than most others.

Went thru SS when I coached hockey. There were some things that were eye opening and while it wasn't the most fun thing to do in the world I understood why they were doing it.

 

Perhaps the problem isn't that people are required to do SS training. It's that when someone breaks those SS rules and does something very bad they aren't enforced to the extent that they should be. Seems like as much of a CYA thing as anything else.

@6balls You hit on something here that I've struggled with. With my body position "hips up" and "more front foot" are a one or the other thing for me. I'm actually pretty good at "hips up". I'm pretty damn bad at "more front foot".

 

Any advice/tricks from people to try to make both of those possible at the same time?

You're over thinking it. Only bad side is that you'll need readers sooner than you would have otherwise.

At least the guy was honest in the post. But, boy, was that thing ridden hard and put away wet.

Paperwork that came with mine showed $70,350. Not sure if that was MSRP or what the original owner paid for it.

@RAWSki Interesting that boat has the 5.7. I thought all the Icon editions had the 6.0L. Mine is a cat-less 6.0.

I'm thinking tracking fins or the prop are the culprit here. Fins look ok?

Got a 2012 200 Mapple Icon Edition. Should be a collector item. First person to give me $200k gets it. :)

I NEVER got OTF (mostly because I'm too much of a tail-rider) but the one time I did was because of the SSP on an RLXi. It made the wake a rock. Great for footing. Terrible for slalom.

 

Friends don't let friends slalom with the SSP.

Guy probably posted it w/ no intention of selling, but if someone wants to play ball at a crazy high price....

Not a fan of the whole push test or soccer ball thing. Maybe because I'm RFF so I break the rules on those. Every single person I know that has ever ridden a skateboard or scooter has their same foot forward as when they ski. So if you're looking for some dryland testing/practice give that a shot.

Only seen a couple of videos so far of Off Course, but looks like there's no room for a rear view mirror. Anyone have a good solution for that yet?

I used to have this intermittently on my 2012 when it was cold out. Never otherwise. Same recommendation as @oldjeep I'd disconnect and reconnect the CAN BUS connection at the ECU.