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Gloersen
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Posts posted by Gloersen
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Tried these #’s for
grins.
class=apple-style-span>2.449 - 7.004 - .587 wing upside-down at 9 degrees, close to what
you posted, a radical change from .74 – 6.871 – 2.5.
Ran a couple 28’s surprisingly,
though the offside was too much & onside required too much effort.
Changed to 2.456 – 6.990 -
.587, ran some decent 28’s but to much deceleration into offside to shorten
line.
ÂÂ
Reminiscent of the slot
fin feel this far back & long.
Concur the ski works well
at a wide range of fin settings & the offside seems to always be there
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To reiterate Deanoski's statement: "I can pull my rear foot
out easy when done skiing"
IMO, that is key if using a Reflex.
Initially I’d used an Approach rear with loose bungie for the
front laces, but even with a Reflex releases setting of 5.5, had a couple of
buoy strikes that created release with the back foot remaining in.
Have since switched to a Wiley rear which offers good, snug
support but in a significant fall, stuffing the tip, or at the end of the set;
the rear foot comes out comparatively easily.
Reflex release setting now 5, at 180 release when necessary but
seemingly not too easily.
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still liking 6.870, tried a few thousandths longer, not as good for now.
adding depth to 2.503
just need to learn to ski instead of backsiding the 2nd wake
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Hope the fall wasn't bad. Have broken 3, 1 attributable to > 1
season at pylon, the other 2 where the end imbricates back into the braid in
the shorter segments, both < 6 months, both the same "reputable"
brand. Don't use that brand anymore for practice. I find the "In Tow"
ropes quite good. After reading your post though, due for another.
40/50 adjusts here Sat/Sun, & a bit of trepidation 1 week post
head wound; not ideal tuning conditions.
The ski is fast though.
Next move will be a try with bindings back up to 30/17.675 to see
if speed can be bled a bit into offside without having to jump on the front which
I was finding with -32’s, particularly in tailwind.
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You're on RS1's? FB less than 30"?
The ski seems to work well at various fin dimensions, but I found stock providing too much tip pressure.
Wondering if Reflex setup provides more tip pressure than RS1's.
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Scalp
wounds tend to be quite vascular, but consequently don’t too often get
infected; hopefully this one won’t pus out.
Not
too painful after initial impact, anticipating some bad habits got knocked out
of the head.
Closed
with about 10 subcutaneous monofilament sutures to re-approximate frontalis to
galea, then a running subcuticular
nylon.ÂÂ
If
scars are chick magnets; this will be Neodymium.
Just
need some bolts installed on both sides of the neck.
Mechanism:
I’m
90% certain the fall was a user error equipment mishap.
I
distinctly recall a clicking sensation either on the drop at the end of the lake
(after prior 2B spill) or with the start rounding the island.
Never
have had a partial release that would dupe me into not realizing the release
clasp was loose or not firmly seated. It is difficult for that to be
conceivable; the Reflex mechanism is either all intact or unlatched.
However,
I use a bit of Velcro between the shell & the plate, otherwise, even when
properly seated & clamped, the heel will move a tad from side to side as
evidenced by the wear on the shell when rubbing against the release bracket
bolts on either side.
When
examining the Reflex, the clamp can release, but still be right up against the
bar and with the Velcro it stayed on the ski when I replaced foot in rear
binding in the water. I think that is what happened on a fall around 2B on the
prior attempt.
Reproducing
this on land demonstrates what that “clicking†sensation I felt was before the
fall.
So
basically started, pulled-out, traversed the gates, then had a strong 1B all
with the Reflex clamp not attached! As soon as the ski loaded off 1B I could
feel my hardshell slide off the ski’s left side (the
edge side), it seemed like that occurred before the 1st wake. Then
everything exploded. There is a little damage to the top laminate/ upper side
on the left edge of the ski where the cuff bolt of the hardshell
hit the ski as it slid off the left edge when loading.
Now
have to mend with epoxy & clamps, brand new ski, kind of sucks.
Remedy:
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:
Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>1.)
style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>When a foot comes
out, even if rear, get back on boat platform to check Reflex clamp intact.
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:
Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>2.)
style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Modify rear Wiley
so foot stays in a bit better
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:
Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>3.)
style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Karate Helmet
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family:
Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>4.)
style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'>
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Superglue to seal wound;
ski Wednesday?
Thankful not an eye.
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>
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ST: how about "
class=apple-style-span>
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:red'>Slicing
Tomahawk
"Fell at 2b, back foot came out
& instead of getting on platform, put on in water.
On next pass attempt felt some
kind of clicking on the start, ignored it, then had a
big 1B and the front Reflex felt like it just came right off at maximum load.
Somehow the tip of the ski (I
assume) gashed the forehead.
A shame to have had to waste the
great water conditions today.
Plus opening set felt great, .74
has helped the onside a lot (back from .745)
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:black'>Currently
.74/6.870/2.5/8; quite decent.
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Assuming typo & you meant 6.93.
Sticking with 6.870 here and adjusting DFT to onside.
The shorter fin from stock seems to help me keep the ski out front through the pre-turn as well as gain width behind the boat.
The more sets I put on it, the better the offside continues to be.
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Roger:
No dis ever taken from these blogs; always appreciate any info gathered to help shorten the line and to offer any informative opinion.
Good luck in Palm Bay, maybe you'll be right behind Chet in the RO!
Z7ST is GOOD!
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The Reflex is a reliable
releasing binding if the setting is not too high. That said,
if it is used in combo with a rear that doesn't allow the foot to come out
easily, like a D3 highwrap, then one may find
themselves tightening the release setting on the Reflex binding too much to
avoid the dreaded front foot out/rear foot in spill. I found this to be the
case when using a rear Approach until I converted the lace to
class=SpellE>bungie
cord. However, even with this I have stricken theball a couple times resulting in front foot release and rear still in.
A rear toe plate is
probably safest with the Reflex, can't do it personally, but have since
switched to a modified Wiley rear which permits easy foot release (but still
keeps the heel down) and thus allowing the Reflex release setting to be set
reasonably low.
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DFT measured
flat/head with a homemade slot caliper. Zeroed at back of
fin, then to tail; very reproducible.
2 more sets
today, okay they were just 28’s again, but 6.870 seems a very workable length,
leaving D at 2.5, still might go back a bit more as 1/3/5 (heelside)
are just a tad too abrupt. Toeside turns are very
good on this ski (imho).
I’ll have to
try running some -38’s on Saturday to test the true “carryout†ability; that is
the ability of my compadres to carry me out on a
stretcher after I try, that will be the only carryout I’ll get at purple.
Despite the various
levels of proficiencies qualifying one to describe a ski’s inherent
characteristics; I can say that (for me) compared to the ’05 X-5, ‘06 Nomad,
Monza (’07 & ’08), the A1, & the Elite, the Z7ST is a ride that has given
me the greatest “confidence†when skiing balls to the wall (if that can be done
at -28).
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>ÂÂ
Still have 8 days to send it back to D3 (not).I expect to be
class=GramE>seeing  some
blues attournaments this year on this ski.
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Tried 6.870/2.50/.750, FB 30". It was decent
FB 29.875" 2nd set; better onside.
Tried 6.878 4th set = too much offside, ski getting behind & lost out bound direction off 2nd wake.
The 6.870/2.50/.750 are good numbers to build upon.
The ski is freed up well past 2nd wake, turns surprisingly well on the offside, keeps the ski out front.
Will try back with fin a bit to slow the gates down a tad and have a little more tip into 1B.
jdarwin: good info.
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class=apple-style-span>jdarwin
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS";color:black'> - I will try
increasing DFT for grins to .750, should "free it up" quite a bit.
At 6.870 suspect
will need to go forward with Reflex front.
It will be interesting to see how the
offside turns with that little tip & that far forward.
Are you on a 67"?
If Reflex front, at 30"?
From where on the Reflex do you
measure?
Using the wing at 7?
Thanks.
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Usually find setup best for me is a little longer on both length & DFT from stock on prior skis, but wanted to free up the Z7STa bit, looking at another post by jdarwin on Z7 (generation1), thought I'd try back & shorter; it is better.
Better speed control through gates and seems to carry out better with fin back & shorter. Still turns great.
Found diminishing returns at DFT 0.73/ L 6.870/ D 2.495, good angle but hard to get wide (slide?); probably too little FSA.
Just need good weather & course time now.
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Roger:
at 180 on a 67".
Eager to hear your report & settings.
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Last D3 I rode was in "06 on the original Nomad. This ski is MUCH BETTER!
Coming off Elite (couldn't tame it), feels similar in some ways, but perhaps decels better in the pre-turn.
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style='font-size:14.0pt;color:red'>Z7ST
Doubt this
thread will generate the response of the Strada, but
the Z7ST rocks!
Good ski, suspect
it will be well-received.
Likes to be
skied aggressively :) but doesn’t punish going into turn.
Carries out
well; can be very w&e but without good handle control,
one will beeline to the ball.
Then, stay
in the reach = IS GOOD!
16 sets, all
-28’s/34, different fin & binding settings for 8 of those sets, hit openers
in all but 4, good for my level & indicates to me the inherent
predictability of the ski. Plus water is still cold <64, limitations of
suit, etc. Getting it dialed in real well is pending warmer weather.
Started
with:
Reflex 30â€Â
(measured from back of hinge mounting bracket) Wiley 17.675â€Â
DFT 0.74/D 2.506/L
6.905/W 7
Now:
29.875/17.375
DFT 0.73/D
2.498/ L 6.875/ W 8
Getting
closer.
Counting
on this ski to get it done this season, so far; very encouraging.
style='font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
Interested
to see what others arrive at for setup.
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2nd the ShadowBoxTM type gps speed/course
plot tracking device conjecture.
Tried to get similar data with a Garmin Forerunner 305, but
the update frequency was inadequate, although one velocity data point was logged
at 107mph, probably from a flailing arm after a spill.
Could provide great data exploited as a coaching tool. That
combined with a device logging line load vs. time could be quite useful; more
buoys???
Definitely more $$$, maybe it will cost way less than $500 ( class=SpellE>ShadowBoxTM),
otherwise we'll have to wait & hear from Horton as to how valuable it is.
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Regarding the Elite, I concur; fin changes seem to yield results that are disparate from whatconventional dictum would predict. This seems most notable with regard tochanges in settings that would be most appreciable in the offside turn as wellas generating width. After getting the bindings where I think they should be,I’ve been all over the place with the fin on the 67†Elite.
At .795/2.508/6.835/8 wasripping pretty well, but too much handle control required, no room for evenmarginal separation, otherwise, heading back in & narrow to the ball,despite starting out quite wide. With “adequate†handle control could head to2B wide & early, initiate a strong offside/backside the 2B turn and rip,yet too many times would skip out the tail or get high-sided. One might thinktake out length or increase DFT to alleviate that (less tip pressure), butthose were the changes being made without success. So, based on “favoredâ€Âsettings in the blogs, went to .785/2.511/6.838/8 and offside turns are betterwith less tail slide and width is better both directions, even 1B turnssmoother and more angle off the ball (LFF); opposite result of what I wouldhave expected.
What may be a manifestation of less than ideal fin settings in these skis wider in the forebody; jumping on the front in the turns, especially offside, to compensate for the lack of tip pressure that otherwise would ensue from a more properly tuned fin. By “jumping†on the front in the offsidepre-turn the inside leading edge of the “wider†ski bites in a progressivelyasymmetric manner and the ski either finishes too strong and one getshigh-sided or the tail blows out. At first thought, one would think; finishingthe offside too strong or blowing out the tail equates to needing less finlength or moving it forward. Yet (at least for me) moving the fin back andadding length has improved the offside by permitting me to stay “balanced†onthe ski and still come out of the turn with good tip pressure and better angleas well as width.
I did not notice this on the A-1; it seemed to allow me to get away with jumping on the front and many timesI could pull off a “comeback†offside turn, but with the A-1, if the fin wasnot long enough, no matter how much I stepped on the front, it was difficult togenerate a decent offside turn. On the A-1 if I added too much length though, Iwould get robbed of width. The Elite does not seem to behave this way (myimpression is that Elite does not reward the technique of jumping on thefront); if the fin is not long enough or back enough, now and then some decent offsides could be obtained by pressuring the front, but waytoo inconsistent.
It could also be that somehave more roll stability being wider and thus the shallower fin settings may bepreferred. Using Approaches initially on the Elite, anything deeper than 2.508made edge change seem sluggish, but with Reflex seems like deeper does notnegatively affect edge change until about 2.512 (but water is cooler now).
Sure there is more to itall, but how “wide skis†affect the perception of fin settings & changes,IMHO.
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DFFT or distance from front of fin to tail (jaws), helpful in comparison for those using the slot fin. Also more consistent than conventional DFT. Time on the ski at the posted settings (# sets, weeks, or months, etc.) Data posted after only a few sets of "experience" are of less value, imho
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It will be interesting to see the replies. Could be that with the extra torque/HP of the Zr6 you are not creating much reduction in rpm during the max load phase; compared with the 5L, the relatively greater reduction in rpm imparted, especially if you load hard off the ball, is met with a throttle response that propels a skier into the subsequent pre-turn providing the sensation of "breaking free".
You might consider trying a switch, since using PP, and maybe KX-/PX15, to make the Zr6 provide some extra rpm kick off the ball at load and determine if this provides that "break free" experience. Easy to try compared to to reducing torque with a different prop.
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NO.
"Step ahead counter-rotation" is screwy enough.
Though further elaboration on shooting the ski might be interesting.
Although there are times when the idea of breaking out the Remington 870 and unloading all 7 into my ski has been tempting, but suspect this is not aligned, technically or politically, with WCS.
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Tore gastrocnemius/soleus at aponeurotic junction. Grade 2 or less hopefully. Pre-ski stretched, nonetheless an unexpected and sudden incident after loading out of 2B. Was finally getting in a zone on this Elite the last 6 sets too.
Good reference link for those with similar setbacks.
http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/cybertherapist/back/backlowerleg/calfstrain.htm
SN 200 problem
in News & Other Stuff
Posted
http://www.pcmengines.com/images/engines/zr409_for_web.jpg
When it comes to performance, the new PCM ZR-409 is the flagship of the line-up. Incredibly powerful yet fuel efficient, the ZR-409 is rated at 409 horsepower and when equipped with PCMʼs famous Power Plus 1.23:1 transmission, it makes an incredible 492 foot-pounds of torque. The ZR-409 features PCMʼs new HO exhaust system, has high performance aluminum heads, and is freshwater cooled. The distributorless ignition with platinum tip spark plugs stretches maintenance intervals into years. The serpentine belt system and modular raw water pump make routine maintenance a snap. The stainless steel pump is tough and specially engineered for the demands of the marine environment.Â
The ZR-409 is super quiet, incredibly smooth, and provides neck-snapping performance. And for all this power, the ZR6 still runs on standard octane fuel while the competitionʼs high performance engines require premium.Â
According to PCM from WSM article: supposedly more fuel efficient than the 343 and about the same weight.
Skied & pulled 180 lb skier SN 200 with 343. Revs to ~4700 rpm before ZO kicks in adequately, then anywhere from 4050 to 4400 range at 34mph with a strong skier.
Hard to imagine fuel economy won't be worse than SN196 with the same motor running much less rpm: we shall see.For complete specifications and features, click here.Â