aguylikeshark

i don't have a problem with 0.860 if you are boots ahead that determines the slip of the ski. if your boots are forward, the fin follows. the 6.940 and 2.600 is a TON of fin unless you are over size for the ski or the water is seriously soupy. Otherwise  it will really scrub off distance to make the turn.     >>> FIN Numbers = DFT .858   Length = 6.939  Depth = 2.595 So for the callaway stock settings on sixam are 2.500 and 6.880 ish. I would try something like 6.940 2.450 ish that gives you 11.870 sq inches of fin.  ÂÂ

No course skiing there is no reason to get a razor blade with a 9Deg wing. Go shaped and enjoy the butter out there and work on countering keeping a tight line. If you are in Canada we have here in our pro shop a 67" Senate C, 67 Sixam 2.0, 67/69" Triumphs. For used course skis a 66" Sixam 1.0, or 9800 67.25, or a budget friendly 67" System 8.

I had my front boot sittin' at 29 7/8" fin at 0.81 ish (67" ski). riding behind the boat or in the pull out, the water is pretty much where I like it (under the front boot). I thought ok this ski is going to work.... but with speed the ski almost levitates as if to put the tip into a no-mans land as coined it. me thinks that a) a flat spot concentrates pressure and b) if you move it back you move the pressure or lift point rear ward propping up the nose. just a guess. i took video and that supports what i felt on the ski. it's really cool side to side.

A fin is supposed to create pressure or resistance in the tail. the holes were punched in 30 years ago so fins could be run longer and deeper without having too much resistance (surface area). A defacto standard fin emerged - presumably when skiers went from one ski make to the next. But not all fins are the same - D3 has more vented area for example and the shapes are slightly different, but not substantially so. A fin's shape only affects the ski in slide and the shape or cut determines the center of force/resistance or hydrodynamic center of the fin which basically controls the attitude of the ski on edge. The Callaway is designed so skiers can swap in this fin for cold water, deeper lakes, bigger skis - and keep their same standard/stock dimensions. It is also a more efficiently designed shape reflecting the shape of fins found in nature (ie fish) with wing turbulence is exhausted into a void area as well. The CR Pacific or Pac fin is a more dramatic repositioning of the hydrodynamic center. It's the full volume version - great for northern deep or Canadian waters, or wider skis. If you ride the CR pac with good results there is no need to try a Callaway. Callaway is for something like Robin Lake.

i rode this ski for 2-3 miles including up and down the course a couple of times 32 off in rollers. somethin's funky with the stick in how it's bent. zips through the wakes though once I got it back down again and turning. i don't think it's the right rocker for me.

Evolution Z's -> Debuted these baby's at the worlds. I wanted to lower cost to compete with rubbers so we deleted the detachable cuff and buckle and replaced with speed hooks for 100% lace up. I rode them first set ran 28's, 32's they were great!! Releases super easy too- even with laces tight. An inboard cinch strap (taken from our skate format) gives secure feeling and fine control. I run one now on my back boot, sticking with the twin buckle E on the front for now. To get them on you put the liner on first, slide in, cinch up. Full hardboot support too - these are sick! http://www.jagersport.com/images/EvoZOrg2.jpg Having said that we are selling lots of Quattro systems - 100% from testimonials of fellow skiers. My ski buds are still on their releaseable plate Q systems 4-5 years now. I should do a worlds report it was an exciting event and talked to almost every pro skier/coach.

boody - i should send you a CR pacific. I was fiddling around with the A1 for a while now trying to balance off both sides and getting a little stumped. i wasn't getting the offside turn or direction i needed to build equal space to two ball. i switched out to a 0.080" fin (from the 0.10") and this last change was the biggie - after testing a set of new Evolution Z boots, i swapped out my rear boot only (to a Evo Z boot).  now both sides are just killing it. i can say this is the best setup i've ever ridden. i am in no rush to setup this new OB elite.ÂÂ

just got the elite today. sort of looks like the hollow-tip ski we built a few years ago, same idea anyway. sharp top edge, thin sidewall. the warp is lighter and with its autoclave construction we are talking apples & oranges. the elite is more practical however with inserts and probably not as fragile to impact since there is a core there. might be able to ski it once before I fly to worlds.

i've got both here - the 67.5 1.0 is the same length as the "67" 2.0. I set them up same #'s and was happy with the way the 2.0 skied - until 35 and I felt I could not get aggressive enough. but that was the maiden run.

OB binding loc chart: 66 29.5 67.5 30" 69 31" Our lake - I usually run 0.125" to 3/8" (depends on ski flex) ahead just to get water contact under the front boot, otherwise there is no grip there.

use a wetsuit lube or seal saver on the liners. any silicone works - I ran out and now just squirt some armour all into my liners every now and then. so use silicone. open the laces as much as possible. move the cuff back, like boody says jam your toes in as far as possible, gently slide the heel into the liner using the handle. I can zip into my boots in seconds, all done up in a minute or two. when they break in the fit is amazing.  ÂÂ

i have nickname for the Sixam 2 pt. it's "breezy". top down, radio on, cruising, oh wait a second, i'm slalom skiing. ran 4 passes with it today, feet up, remote in hand. lulled myself to barely getting out the gates. i miss the wilder adrenalin junkie jetfighter of the 36 mph ski so I am going back to the A1 tomorrow. Also ordered an Elite. I rode the Warp for a month and with that ski it was like you didn't even have a ski. boots and water.

I took numbers straight up off the FM Workbook program for a 69 ski 220 lber and fast water. I don't remember the exact #'s. fin area 11.980, boots 31 ?? The A1 is a fast ski ha ha .. seriously I think A1 design is very quick side to side. The ski feels amazing and the turns are good. I can't quite get the turns at this moment I need to hook-up on short ropes. There is also the issue of sink/stall that i am going to run into know matter what the ski. The sixam has a different rocker - pretty much continuous. So you know what that means - she turns! but I would say the ski (say a 1.1) does not seem to be as explosive side to side. but heck our course skis so short that one turn after another is not a bad thing. I took the 2 point in for a couple of passes before straining my hip abductor? again. (I put my fin a few thou deeper on the A1 Sunday and that increase in line load injured my back hip). Anyway I noticed with the 2 point this morning I could with its increase platform size, counter much more through the turns. Much like free skiing with those big HO's. But it still had very good course performance. I can't say how well it will do at 35+ because I was forced to stop there.

i just got a 67.5 sixam 2.0 in here. silver top, new. I was not planning on riding it actually, but i am losing the ski center/balance on short ropes with the A1. Very dicey, pickup the speed or I thought more surface area would open the envelope around the turn a bit more. So setup the 2 & tried it today in lumpy water. It's a really cool board. Lots of support but does not feel big. felt great. trying it in the course tomorrow am. I setup a skier on a 69" 2 pt. earlier this year CR fin, fin box and he's been just rippin' it.

True about the settings - may just need to loosen the ski up but Z7 is 36 mph capable, and your going to have to put more power down. the Sixam 2 pt is a wider 34 mph design and will be easier to ski. i've got both skis coming my way so will be able to compare the two as well.

------------------------------------------------------------------- This is Shane's orig post with some comments inserted in (  ) >Brent, something's not making sense here. When the water warms up, >the ski rides deeper and you want to decreease tip pressure.  (YES) But decreasing wing angle is the same as increasing DFT , ie moving the fin forward, not decreasing it. (NO, a reduction in wing angle will feel more like a decrease in DFT in the pull, and feels like a reduction in tip pressure offside, but will put the tip lower onside)  When you decrease DFT, you increase tip pressure just like when you increase wing angle you increase tip pressure. (Yes, but it's a bit more dynamic and complex: decrease DFT supports the tail of the ski more, putting the tip lower most noticeable at the offside finish and onside pre-turn, and reduces slip in the ski so both turns are rounder. increasing wing angle trims the ski by pulling the tail down when you are on your back foot, and sucking the whole ski down when you move to your front foot.) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Everything cues off the boots, which control the overall perforamnce of the ski. So to make a true water conditions/temperature correction you have to move your boots, then the fin and wing follow suit. That is why on the E boots we devised a micro-set fastener system with neoprene backed SS washers to cushion and grip the plates so we can use 100% slotted holes. The wing's action is dynamic and mulit-faceted. But in softer water the wing angle would need to increase to have the same force applied to the ski as in cold. You can make technique changes, you can make just one or a couple of fin adjustments (what I call the wrong move for the right reasons) it all depends on what you are willing to accept as a skier. For me it's not about ball count, it's about riding a ski that rips and rips and rips no matter what I'm doing on it, how rough it is, who's driving, etc..ÂÂ

Jon rides and has ridden tons of different equipment. Which is cool because there are skiers at his level that can't do that for reasons from sponsorship to supersititions.  We (FM) serve the skier and the mission of performance & safety as best we can as Professional Engineers, so we do not stand in the way of the learning process. I thought it would be a good thing to ride the radars and see what they're all about, since this is a new style of boot that comes from the DNA of Intuition.  It would certainly get a jump for me too since it was the dead of winter and I was waiting for them to hit the stores. Same sort of thing as when Andy was riding his FM boot all over the place for a good year or so. You have to ride stuff in competition for a proper test. JT has skied different versions of the Drivers, Approaches - you name it. We ask;  he knows. Got a new idea way up here that works, send it down Fedex he's rippin' it the next day. Most people start with FM's 'cause they got hurt, so did JT. After what 4 years... a world record, tied the Tower's Boys 3 record, #1 skier in the world for his age, first kid to ride hardshells in all three events at the Masters, ran 41 more than most in practice....his ankle is all better now and he can look at different options again. Same for me - after 8 years my ankle is pretty good but in shooting for top performance, and it's got to be safe. I will not compromise on that.  ÂÂÂ

That's good that Eddie's here & that is a great score by JT, but why use JT as promo fodder for the RS-1's?  What about the official factory "design" team? for example how about TMo or T$$ or Rosco? With Intuition liners they are going to fit well, the shell no matter how it is configured is really a transport device for the liner. But .....

I thought of your request after getting the design down. Just a few parts but some mods are required. Laces, cord locks, bolts/washers, retention pads, modified cuffs, and instructions to modify the lower shells.  Plate or plates. If you have the FMX plate, go straight on.  You might try E-Spec on your current system before going to the explosion bolted cuffs. This will give a lot more movement in the boot and you can "back-out" on the upgrade. The liners and boots soften up through use, and get really sweet.  Boots last a long time, years and years.  Still mulling over what to put on this puppy. This ski is something else. http://www.jagersport.com/images/bodyimage.jpg

Rubber holds your foot in by compression. It releases by undergoing an expansion. and as mentioned there is friction impeding the entry and exit .  The higher or deeper the boot, more expansion/deforming is required - this is the big problem. The reason there is a lot of one-foot-in injuries in these types of boots is  the way in which the feet exit. The rear leg is at say a 45 deg, and unloaded, all force directed at lifting the heel up and out. The front leg is 100% loaded, sliding into the toe of boot, at less of an angle, and less force is directed at lifting the heel. So the back comes out and all hell can break loose, esp if there is a twisting because the leg/knee is not good at withstanding a twist while loaded up.  http://www.jagersport.com/images/e_collage_body.JPG the E got revised in Feb using a breakway cuff instead of a strap connected to liners. So doing them up is pretty close to just a regular buckled boot now, and there is more support up top. they feel great. We might also come up with an expandable buckle strap which would delete the bungie lacing system - got some really nice cord locks for those too. So overall less $, easier to use and an awesome fit. I'll mountem' to my Warp 8 which just got in the door. cool.ÂÂÂ

Roger - My plate arrived and was as per the exploded diagram: the binding plate rests on machined aluminum "neck washers".This has a high coeff of friction, esp under load, for the plate to slide. . The little opaque plastic washer has no contact with the plate. There is a larger plastic lock washer but that is on the top of the plate.ÂÂÂ

Got a set here on Thursday. Did my standard OTF test to the point where I started to lift my ballast, and no release. I will come out if the two top hooks are completely undone and I use just the lower laces. ...the boots are too way to loose for me like that.   Also restrictive forward and especially to the back. A lot of skiers will not like this because you won't be able to get behind the ski or advance the ski through the wakes. The shells may breakin and get more flexible, but then you'll be looking for more from the lace system. http://www.jagersport.com/Images/ER1andEseries.jpg

First time login......I got a pr. of the radars coming this week. I'll be able to evaluate the release pretty quick just on land. However if you close the boot off above the top of the foot, you will seriously start to impede exit from the shell. Personally I can't see the two co-existing - proper liner compression and enough expansion for easy exit, but I could be surprised. In order to get a performance fit from the liner the foam has to be compressed and getting enough pressure from thin bungies?? We are using 3/16 shock cord on the E and this feels adequate. A buckle will at least double the closure pressure of a shock cord. Joe - we don't use "hockey "boots at all. Our shells come from aggressive inline manufacturer and are an FM design  = tough but pliable. I could make changes to the resin, graphics, but molds I decided not to since the season was on us. So we make the mods ourselves. The buckle springs rust in dirty water - so we have urethane option, and the cuff bolts are steel. I know they will start to rust a bit, but I am thinking we should just paint them right from the start. Skiing is super close to inline skating with a bit of a twist. That is why the boots work - and we have a couple of world records to back that up. Slalom does not = hockey, that is a different world altogether. A competition hockey skate is far more senstive than a slalom boot will ever be! The release pin. I mean we could re-brand it but I see no reason to spend $. Lube it every month and it's consistent as can be. I estimate there is  getting close to 100,000 passes on the release pin. Only real problem is it sits over the HO inserts.ÂÂÂ