bko

They are perfect in terms of keeping the fingers warm and the thickness did not bother me. But after just 2 sets I could already notice abrasions on the palms... (further testing will not take place before April).

@bracemaker: Yes - so you need to have an adequately sized washer (regular size is sometimes not sufficient for a long spacer).

You only have to prevent the front binding from sliding forward - it never slides backwards while skiing. I use only a single spacer shaped to the dimensions of the slot (I have several of them in different length increments) in only one of the six slots.

I know what you mean but this has only a minor effect on the laceration of the skin and I believe it has a negative effect on the release mechanism (because you kind of decrease the width of the block).

I believe there's something wrong with the functioning of the ZO. We are also running a boat with PP and a boat with ZO on a rather short setup and the ZO is so much easier...

The caps don`t make any sense. And a regular spray leg sleeve doesn't help much either (too soft and to thin for the impact). To be safe get a shinbone protector from soccer (might need to fix it with some duck tape; maybe footballers use the same - since I'm from Europe I have no clue about football...) and if you realize that you seldomly (never) fall on your offside-turns with a release of the boot you can get rid of it...

The wounds on shinbones do not com from the release - they result from hitting the shinbone with the block on the rear end of the boot. If you stuff the ski-tip in an off-side turn you will bleed! (with proper ski-setup these occasions are rare...)

3 defunct brands from Austria (not Australia): Kneissl (snowski company produced waterskis in the 60s) Tornado (actually a fashion boot manufacturer called Panzl; 70s) Pilot (my father and his uncles built skis and bindings in the 50/60s)

Seth, just for clarification: your description of the sequence does start at/after the edge change whilst Ed's starts at a later stage (in the turn)?

Try toothpaste...

Ho 410: in a case you described, doesn't the system beep to signal the fact that it has not enough throttle?

After having spent more than 10.000 hours pulling waterskiers I see it the other way 'round: coaching as a driver impairs my driving abilities! Striving for the perfect pull in the slalom course I refrain from coaching; only if my skiers insist I try to give them clues. But I am aware that some renowned coaches (e.g. Jack Travers) are driving & coaching simultaneously with good results. bernhard

While I could adjust perfectly to changes of water temperature by moving the front binding on my Fischer (in tiny increments), this method wouldn't work at all with the HO A1. On that ski I am having good results with moving the fin forward (which is much more time consuming, of course) in colder water. Also in other aspects in setting up the A1 I have the feeling that it reacts differently to adjustments than my former ski. Do different ski react differently to adjustments in general? Or maybe the sweet spot on the A1 is so small that it just doesn't allow binding movements...? Just thinking (instead of lurking) bernhard

Hi Richard, 500,-- Euros or best offer + shipping (I have no clue how much this would be; around 50,--, I assume) bko at iwwc dot at

Since the ski is way too long for me (but was the best ski I had in the 07 season) I sell the original Fischer 67,95 inch in very good condition. 2 scratches in the clear enamel paint (not in the ski itself) on the top. Problem: one of the 3 rear inserts (not the middle one) is damaged; I had no problem using the remaining 2 inserts for my rear binding and I truly believe that re-threading of the insert is possible.  in the original bag + tools from europe bernhard

No - it doesn't work that way. When you turn in early, slow and with that little angle you might end up with nice and easy one balls but you will not stand a chance the come out of #2 in a decent way - your ski will be too slow! It does work like a pendulum after all.