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Once more I kindly ask for your recommendations. Soon I will have completed my modifications. In relation to my stock setup (HO Syndicate) I will have to mount the binding further back if it feels awkward - is that correct?

@adamhcaldwell: again thanks for your wisdom @gavski: doesn't your contoured, orthotic footbed conflict with the concept of flattening the sole of the shell? Isn't it considered crucial to stand completely flat in sport boots/shoes - without any support for the arch of the foot?

@gavski Thank you for the insights. More questions arose: - don't you think the circular holes on in- and outside of the upper cuff - like on Adam's boot - are useful? - how about the cut between first and second buckle? - which kind of Naboso insole do you recommend? (there are 3 types available on their website)

@gavski: can you please elaborate on: "adjustments to the cuff to get your lower leg in the center of the cuff when the buckle is done up" Of course I would love to see some photos...

@adamhcaldwell: Thank you for the answer. I start tinkering as soon as I get a spare boot.

@adamhcaldwell: you have made a cut on each side of the shell (the ones you secured with zip ties). I guess they are meant to allow for even more mobility of the upper part/cuff. But on the other hand the two bolts on each side next to the pivot joint plus the two black latches on the back enhance the stability of it. Do you still consider this combination the best solution or do you think that Stefan's approach using the 2 blocks (to prevent from moving back) and the textile strap can do the job?

Has anyone got an opininon on my thought: On the HO Pro my favourite CG fin setting was 10/1000 forward compared to my regular fin setting (and forward compared to the factory setting of the ski). When switching to the HO Alpha I mistakenly set the fin using a smaller DFT measurement (and shorter and deeper) compared to the factory setting - and it worked great. After realizing my "error" I tried several settings with the fin further forward but could not find a solution. Does this mean that I need to put the binding forward in conjunction with a bigger DFT in order to get the most out of the fin according to Adam's advices?

Where can I get this app? Is it available yet?

To me it looks boat speed is slightly too fast - maybe try a little slower

Yep! Clem Fin

@adamhcaldwell Once you have run 41 off your advice must become more expensive ;) If I ever make it across the big pond again, skiing with you and/or Cord is on top of my bucket list. So far I only have had glimpses of your coaching through Austin Abel here in Austria. He was also the one who introduced me to the Denali

Thanks @adamhcaldwell! I am looking forward to implement these thoughts into my "concepts" when the winter is over. But I have to admit I don't understand the actual description of the how-to: "On the buoy-line." Does that mean the desired starting point is at the buoy-line? "High enough velocity to still be 'on-plane' and in an efficient body position to lead the ski into CL." This is clear (I think). "Rope at a 45° position to the boat" ? "ALL AT THE EXACT SAME TIME." I don't get this at all. Can the skier be at the buoy-line at the same time the rope is at an angle of 45° (if the rope is shorter than, let's say, 22 off)??

4 years ago, at the age of 48, I got my hip replaced. 3 days later I left hospital (without crutches or stick - which was a little over-ambitious) 2 months later I snowskied & 4 months later I ripped the slalomcourse (35 off/36 mph) without any problems whatsoever. For 7 or 8 months while jogging (which I never was really fond of) the hip was bothering me. My resume: the prothesis works like a brandnew hip; my body only had to overcome the stress of the surgery. Good luck!

Have you used a power-tool like a disc-grinder or similar close to the boat and the sparks have hit the prop?

@AdamCord Years ago the mastermind behind the Fischer Waterski came up with the idea of a mini version - for kids! Less water area, less horsepower hence (way) smaller boats would make the entry to our sport easier in many ways. But since the kids in his club outgrew the project too quickly, it was abandoned before being realized.

Probably identical or very similar to www.edgewaterski.com

1. Activate your outside lat muscle (Latissimus dorsi muscle) in order to keep the shoulders level 2. get a stiffer boot - so you can get the ski on edge while staying more upright throughout the turn (a cuff too soft requires more body lean to acquire a proper ski edge which throws you off balance more easily)

@cragginshred: Just let me know in advance when you arrive in Austria.

Hotel Furian offers a course on a big public lake. Not many other boats there but very prone to wind and waves. Volker Engelhardt, owner of Razor Skis, is skiing on a lake near Vienna (not by the name "Razor Lake" though). The club there - as well as other 4 ski clubs on private lakes in Austria - offers perfect conditions for slalom and will gladly welcome you as a guest skier. bernhard kosch secretary general, Austrian Federation

Expensive yes. But the sport of surfing is more popular and several forms of "inland surfing" will soon increase its popularity. On a site like this several surfers can ride the waves simultanuously, which makes it more cost efficient. Plus it might seem as a more ecological sport than skiing behind a fuel-engine (and probably is)...

@wish: years ago when ZO was new, I asked the question in a forum (here on BOS or on The Waterski Forum - I really don´t remember): "Which ZO setting makes me a better skier?". I was seeking advice on which setting would "force me" to improve my technique - not the setting that would be "the easiest" for me. Several skiers (Schnitz was among them) gave me friendly tipps, but nobody seemed to understand what I was going for. I came to the conclusion that the letter C would do for me what I thought was desirable: make me learn how to hook up right after the apex. Since C3 sounded too harsh for my weight (165lbs) I started off with C2 and never tried anything else (switched to C2+ when the + was released). My technique changed over those years from "pulling long" to "early edge change". In 2013 trying letter B made me feel uncomfortable and A was no fun at all (engaged way too late for what I am used). Since then I use C1(a softer, fogiving feel compared to C2). I truly believe that my skiing technique was shaped by the ZO setting I chose.

I used them last fall. After two sets the neoprene was squeezed to almost zero in thickness where the handle meets the fingers (@36 mph - I strongly believe the wear is different @34). But warm they are...

@Horton: o.k., but the tendency seems to turn to softer, right?

@MrJones: your conclusion is correct, but that's not the point here. Some years ago Goode went the other way and featured torsional stiffer fibres - and I think this model was probably one of the least popular Goode skis...

Can't anyone else imagine that a softer torsional flex was the main feature that made Goode Skis so ahead of the game for a while? (not on purpose though - due to the thin structure) @JAS: of course I believe that all companies will go that way