BobF

Resurrecting this thread to share a good sale on the O'Neill Assault cga vest, in case anyone needs one.  What's left of Bart's Watersports has them for 30% discount.  Sign up for their emails and there's another 10% off of that.  I just bought 2 for Xmas gifts, to qualify for free shipping, too.

LINK 

I always assumed that they loosen mainly from vibration.  Over the years, I've noticed that different skis that have different specific screws that loosen.  My current one is predictable as to which ones might be a bit loose after a few rides.

If anyone doesn't have a screwdriver in their boat or ski bag, they certainly should get one.  I'd no sooner put loctite on by binding screws that I would use construction adhesive under the binding.  😊   I haven't gotten the Miko-Just system yet, but planning on it!

While not an answer to your question, I felt the same as you and ended up replacing them myself.  Not as difficult as you might think.

Instructables article

What's your wing angle?  I've never seen that before, but I run a pretty shallow wing.

Great!  Just what my inner-tweaker needs - a way to finagle even when I hide my tools from myself.  😃

I would also be interested in any comparison between the X Series vs the Comp.  I've been using the Comp for a year or so, and will be getting a new line.  I love the one I've been using, and just not sure how the two might be different.

Elbows pinned to vest.  Then some more elbows pinned to vest.  Followed by the same elbows STILL pinned to said vest.  Truly impressive

We set our novice course -10 feet from the standard turn buoys.  It's wider than the half course, and much easier to drive than splitting the boat lane to turn balls with the boat.

This old Radar graphic describes the thinking at that time pretty well.  I have a set of Symptoms/Solutions from the older Schnitz web site, but not sure that's postable here.

@UWSkier I'm using a Pixel 6, but have no reason to believe it wouldn't also work on a 7 or 7a.

Related, so not completely off-topic.  I have had trouble with stabilization on my last couple of phones using Wakeye.  I found an app called Automagic (Like Tasker, but with a worse name).

The full version is available for free out there, since development has apparently stopped for now.  It allows you to set speed triggers for user programmed actions.  I have it starting my Camera app, switching to Video mode, set the video stabilization to "active" on my Pixel (since you can't make it default to that for some reason), then start video.  On a pre-set stop speed, it stops the video.  Works great completely unattended on the Ski-Doc.

If anyone is interested, I can export and send the triggers for that app.

I put anti-seize on every hex screw in a fin block, since I had one seize up a few years ago.  Dissimilar metals.

Agree with Horton that it's not worth drilling out.  By the time you drill out the SS, the aluminum will need to be tapped for an oversize screw.  The only reason I did it was to recover the fin blade.

Keep my vision upcourse, and keep the handle up in my reach.

Pretty much the same as many - enough stuff to set a fin, plus a spare fin.  Screwdrivers, screws/washers, zip ties, a knife, a folding carpenter's rule, plus a spare thermostat and impeller for the boat.

I had some patellar tendon issues a couple of years back, and was referred to "eccentric knee exercises" (Slow, lengthening movements, not just because I'm weird).  They helped.

The biggest immediate help for me at the time, was changing the start.  If you have the flexibility to do it, try and think about pressing your chest/vest up against your front knee in the pullup.  For me, this allowed the boat to pull me up without pressing out until I was out of the water.  Much less pressure on both knees and lower back.  Still do it to this day, even though my knee issues have subsided.  Hope this helps.

Ski-Doc website says they're currently in stock from them directly.

https://theskidoc.com/Orbit--Camera-Mount_p_13.html

I also use the medium (comp) and love it.  Used it for a full season and it still has the right amount of give for me.

To me, that pic above still has shoulders, hips, and ankles pretty stacked up.

We did eastern red cedars around ours.  They grow fairly quickly once established, provide good protection, and stay pretty thin.  We didn't want anything that would grow too far out into the access around the lake.

I'm not as good at coaching as some on here, but I would suggest that you should aim to get a lot higher on the boat on your pullout, and take that optimal swing into the gates.

Example of my son's 28 gate height from a set this morning for comparison.

I don't, and can't think of anyone I know that does.  I was going to mention that it's a pretty good idea in the thread about a steering cable snapping.  someone posted that a cable break might likely throw the driver out of their seat, so maybe it's time to start?

I've installed several.  Love it for brackish water, and have never seen one fail.  Except... You'll need to find a long enough straight run in your intake hose to mount it.  No bueno to have a lot of curvy torque on the unit.

Also - consider running the full flush kit to a connection outside the boat (transom).  It takes a deep breath to drill that first hole in the hull, though.

@swbca I did scrape/brush mine out first, and it was pretty clean before I started.  My old insulation had degraded so much that I didn't need to use any other cleaners on it.   I don't know if the 21 sq ft will be enough, based on my experience.  I ordered two of that size, and didn't have much left over.

@swbca Thanks!  I did start trying to make paper templates, but ended up winging it.  It was easier to just run a strip straight down the middle, as close to end to end as I could, then fit in the rest.  I have a couple of in-process pics.  Will post them, if you think they'll help.

search eBay for "Heat Shield Insulation Car Sound Deadener"

Photo attached of mine after I used the self-adhesive mat from there.  It's much quieter than the original in my MC.  Thought I would have to use additional adhesive, but did not and it's held up fine for several seasons already.  I used a wallpaper roller to push it down.  Also used foil tape for the seams.