skialex

I have successfully turned a rear feather frame to a front aluminum. Apart from the 4 screws through the 4 corners of the boot, I run a 5th screw through the middle of the like Radar does. Prong nuts on top, nothing sticking out, red loctite to be safe and keep everything in place. That was for a beginner slalom skier looking to put a ski together in the cheap.

I would ski on that… would try to soak it in simple green but I don’t think it will make a change 

A2 was the high end HO of that era, go for what is today’s high end ski. Obviously you can ski on a high end one. If you are brand loyal… look at the new 01 02 or a syndicate pro. Or any new or 2-3 years old top model from any brand like D3, radar or other ski brands…

Can you post a picture? What kind of Rtp are you using? On some plates, you can move the rubber loop on the plate, in your case forward. Radar aluminum adjustable rtp… you can also move the footbed and loop on the plate and any other you can cut off a little from the front of the plate like 1/4” so that the rtp can sit closer to the front boot. Or just try as is and see… maybe more distance is better.

Just saw that you filed the hole… if you use washers in the middle holes… boot will move.
Buy a Mikrojust and have 20 teeth instead of 5 holes and the boot will stay in place, and can use washers on the other 5.  See @MDB1056 ‘s picture

@water_skier1 no need for any modifications, as I see it from the pictures. It’s not a big deal.
Take the screws out… all of them then start putting the screws back on one by one but just barely in. Just one or two thread as you continue putting all the screws on, hold the boot/plate lifted from the ski, this will give you enough room for all the screws to be screwed in place just a little. Then when all screws are in then and only then start tightening and let the plate sits on the ski. 
This is the way to align all six.

good luck,

Alex,

I use new..! I buy them by the bag, 250 or 500 pieces a bag or by the 100 for the rarely used ones…

well… you can also soak them in discaler… if the head and threads are good, I see no reason throwing them away… they will be good as new…

.095” the thin one or .098” the thicker one… personally prefer the thinner… I took pictures of both, color doesn’t mater, it could be .095” black.

If you are using a slot caliper, you can tell which one you have by the play when measuring dft. There’s almost no play on the thick one.

1 hour ago, Horton said:

https://radarskis.com/products/pro-comp-adjustable-fin-system

Or this… 😊

Depending on what tools you carry and previous experience, seized screws extraction can be relatively easy without harming the fin clamp.If a screw is seized, try not to force it out. It will either brake or the Allen head will be destroyed. Then it becomes a an issue.

So I f you have a seized screw or more than one, or all of them… remove the fin clamp, put in on a Vice and use a blow torch to heat up the metal. Be patient, at some point the screw will turn and without a lot of force. I’m this case if you clean all the residues and put everything back together, it will be good as new.

If you have already broke or damaged the head… then you are going to need a very good and precise bench press and a good cobalt drill bit, (I use a M4 drill bit). And a precision Vice. 
I usually drill off the screw without harming the threads. And only need to run a 10-32 tap to clean the threads, and put a new screw in.

if the threads are gone, you can always use a Helicoil insert or timesert… you don’t need to size up. Also helicoil and time serts are good for repairing striped threads on some not that durable clamps.

anyway, I wouldn’t throw away a good  fin box because of a seized screw, but I wish when friends are bringing me one to fix that they wouldn’t have tried to apply to much force to the point the screw is damaged or broken..

I’m the picture is a removed screw that came out without harming the aluminum’s treads

My friend’s ski is arriving any day now. I will set it up for him when I come back from ski vacation, this Friday 

Big moves scare the hell out of me… fin or boots… same as when trying a new ski. I’m usually very cautious from the start to the first cut through the gates, by then usually I know if it’s ok or it scares me…

Neo2

@Dano on the older vapor or any other Radar boot I measure from the bottom stitching too. It’s the new hard shell vapor that gives me a little hard time measuring distance from the heel to the back of the ski. Measuring from where the boot touches the plate, gives me a bigger number by more than 1/8 than the reflex, both on the same plate. Still I feel better to move a little back when using the hard shell Vapor over the reflex.  Could be the connection to the plate or that the heel sits further forward than other brands… 

@skiboyny try 29 7/8 first, add some 0.005" length if it makes you feel better. Don’t file out the holes, it will make the plate move all the way forward. It can work only if you can make a diy stop, or maybe it’s time to invest in a Mikrojust. You’re gonna love it, best ski tuning tool.

Masterline custom pro-tect handle…

@OKSkier the solution is a mikrojust…. But until you buy and install one, take a screwdriver with you in the boat and try both. I would prefer to start with the little back, but others will say the opposite.

@owennibley video would help… Asher’s video is great but doesn’t help much…

@skiboynyi have set a lot of skiers on ion and ion2, zero complaints, only happy skiers and new PBs, also skiers that came off the ion which they liked, they liked ion2 more. Never tried one when I had a chance, usually all ion2 around me were the wrong size. Always intrigued to try one but the Neo2 I’ve tried was a blast! So I will give it my time, heck I want to buy one now…

To be fair I don’t believe there are bad skis… skis have evolved to a point that maybe there are some small differences mostly brand or model related and some skis suit some skiers more than others…

Bummer… 

20 minutes ago, Horton said:

@skialex

let's not get carried away. Currently there's only three guys that have run it more than a handful of times.

My point is that in order to have a chance to win, you have to run it… 

this is tough really… and yes currently only three guys have run it more than a handful of times.

It takes to run -41 to beat Nate and claim the win…  running-41 by multiple skiers,  in top tournaments,  could become more common in the near future. 

@kc run your numbers, ski is money… 

One set so far, different boat/lake first set, run 4x -28 missed my first -32 run the second… really nice effortless skiing. Great off side turn finish that leads to a great on side turn too. Ski is a keeper. Talking about the Neo2… @skiboyny I’m sorry for hijacking your thread 

I’m not so sure if the bottom of the heel gives you the right measurement.

I’m a size 10 reflex and radar, with the reflex shell on… I measure from under the heel block, then I put the radar on and bottom of the heel gives me a  bigger number. So at the beginning I used to measure with the reflex and them put on the radar. I’ve noticed that radar feels better if I move the plate 1/8 back. Still measuring at the bottom gives me a bigger number… 

now that I’m used to the radar I measure midways on the heel and gives me the same number as with the reflex on and measuring under the heel block. I don’t know if this is the best way, but it works for me.