Dacon62

New to me 17 that was previously enjoyed at McClintocks.

Had a great season and really improved. The boat is awesome and the wakes sure make for an easy crossing no matter what the line length.

Draft on a Prostar is 22” as stated on the MC site. I would imagine that when coming up to speed from idle the bow rises and the stern drops slightly which would increase the needed minimum depth. Don’t know for sure but I wouldn’t feel safe in less than 30” of water if I had to bring the boat up to speed from idle. If just moving at idle 24”.

Bravery to test the limits depends on the type of material (Rock vs mud) that is on the bottom.

5.7-86 Mercruiser was 260 HP carbed.

5.7-2000 Scorpion was 330 HP.

Assume Cam, heads, EFI upgraded.

Guess it depends on how much HP you want and how much you want to spend.

1) Use a larger diameter radius handle. Important to use a good quality handle with grippy rubber so you don’t have to squeeze as tightly to hold on.

2) Good quality gloves that provide good grip of the handle.

3) Newer rope that has stretch left in it. I went with the ML Optimized rope this season.

4) Both palms down on get up.

5) Stretch out/massage inner/outer tendons and muscles daily.

Some good ideas on YouTube.

6) Ice.

I did point 5 all winter to get rid of my late last season pain. Then points 1-5 all this season. Has kept it away.

https://www.facebook.com/MethodWakeboards/videos/397300001187600/

Looks interesting?

Without ballast that boat should easily hit 40+ assuming it has the correct prop.

Sounds like there is a motor issue.

@SlalomSteve

A great stepping stone would be to send @twhisper a video of you skiing the course.

He then does video/audio of himself and you in a split screen showing you key areas to improve.

He will likely send some other videos with specific drills you can do to improve these areas.

Had this done a few weeks ago and it’s some of the best money I’ve ever spent.

It’s like getting a drumming analysis done by Neil Peart.

Anything you can do to move the phone into calmer air at speed?

1) Lowering the phone mounting point. May not be possible?

2) Move the rear view mirror to reduce turbulent air buffeting the phone.

Ditto, some video lesson on this would be awesome. Describing and showing what to do and when.

Want to give my friends the best chance to make the pass.

My understanding was that if not enough washers were used on the horizontal bolt(same could be true for the vertical bolt)there was some slop. My guess is the selected bolt did not have threads far enough down the bolt and the nut could not tighten up enough without the washers taking up the space left.

Don’t know for sure though.

@Chuck_Dickey if I recall your promo was a 14? Was your tiller arm 5.5” connection point center to rudder shaft center as well?

Trying to determine if the tiller arm length was changed at all from 14 to 17 model years.

Looks like your set up has 2 washers on your horizontal bolt. Mine has 4, but all that matters is that the slack there is taken up. Are there extra washers on your vertical bolt as well?

Sequence plate works as advertised.

Easy to adjust in small increments and looks great.

Current G10 version is thicker than the first G10 version I had.

Skied that boat at Radar Lake.

The cool touch vinyl is the real deal. Very nice. Colors look unique and really nice on the water.

Good luck with the sale.

@skibug same here. Ground the port side a bit to reduce pull to starboard. Was just too much from factory.

Still hope to hear from someone with a 14 PS to see if they changed the length of the rudder arm(tiller?)

Wondering which attachment point everyone is using?

The one furthest away or the one nearer the rudder shaft.

Mine is a 17 and the distance from the furthest attachment point to the rudder, centerline to centerline is 5.5”. Is this consistent with model years 14 to present? Or have they changed the rudder arm (tiller?)length over the years?

I think the furthest point is factory?

Of those of you that moved to the closer hole has it been a positive experience or have you moved back to the furthest hole? Any clearance issues with the near hole?

Thank you for your comments.

Season has come to an abrupt halt.

Was good while it lasted. Got in 56 sets behind a new to me 17 Prostar. Really enjoyed the wakes and boat overall. Went from struggling at 22 off to hardly ever missing and getting through 28 off 20x. Best was 4@32 off.

Picked up a 2020 Radar Senate Pro so that didn’t hurt the cause. Had Terry Winter do a video review just last week so I know what to work on to knock down 32 off and hopefully beyond next year.

Another highlight was skiing at Radar Lake this year with @brooks and friends.

I count myself very blessed!

@vtmecheng

Wow here’s a sweet looking one!

Maybe a bit far but could be hauled.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/boa/d/rancho-cordova-malibu-sunsetter/6982709400.html

7.75” wrist to finger tip. Lg gloves and use a 1.062 Masterline. Thinking of going up to 1.082 but before I do i’m going to try @DP70 idea and put my gloves on and grab the handle to see how my fingers wrap around. Have had elbow tendon issues so selecting the correct size is important. Also use a Masterline Optimized line to try and reduce tendon shock.

Never had issues this year so happy about that.

Just out again in a ‘03 Sunsetter LXi.

Amazing wakes, storage and higher bow. A good clean 99-04 LXi is ideal for your situation.

Sometimes in the search for the best boat, best deal it’s easy to fall into something called Analysis Paralysis.

Hope you find the best boat for you soon.

Just got this done.

Wow, so good and can go back for reference anytime. Highly recommend!

Terry also sent an additional video drill to address my main weak area(handle control).

With the video review, of what a pass should look like in comparison to what I am currently doing, I feel like I now have the tools to break past 28 off.

Too bad our season is pretty much done.

At least I have great video to review all winter and burn the correct images of what a pass should look like into my brain.

Just do it!!

@SDNAH2OSKIER totally agree.

@JackQ currently have the 5.7 in my 17 PS. Given the option of 6.0 or 6.2 I would pick the 6.0. I think it would be the engine that would be more bullet proof and lower maintenance cost in the long run.