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501Brandon

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Posts posted by 501Brandon

  1. Thanks JC... I will arrive 23may and be staying with some friends there in Wasilla for a few days before heading to the Peninsula. At the end of the year I was hittin a -32 every now and then. Had a mid season injury kinda set me back a little. Thanks for the feedback and will stay in touch if thats ok...
  2. I personally have been driving for over 10 years (which isnt much compared to some of you) but I think a similar concept exists between driving and skiing/coaching in that the approach/technique varies with line length and speed... I have pulled a ton of people and a lot of INT events however I personally have very little to no experience pulling -38 and shorter. My comfort level there is not near what it is with average speeds and lengths. Not so much the "in course" driving but the setup for a drop as noted by @shaneh. My primary pulls are from 28-36mph and 15-35 off so anything shorter than that I have no experience. I personally couldnt care less who's behind the wheel when I am on the dock, I figure if the Event Coordinator feels good enough to turn them loose then they are good enough for me and of course im not skiing short line lenghts either (-32 at best). Are there any tricks of the trade, drills or concepts that can help newer drivers or guys like me who can drive but are limited by shortiline driving experience?
  3. Half filled milk jugs are a good solution (and cheap) when tied about 10-12 inches from the pipe about 6 feet in from the endo of the turn ball. if you can take a little time and use a light coat of RTV on the cap it could last a year or two before taking on the extra water... Use as a test jug to ensure your depth is right and you gain the correct floatation height as noted by @skiboyny. I was a member of a club on a public lake and this was the solution for that course and it worked pretty good.
  4. OK It has happened to me alot on glass type conditions and where we ski there is typically just enough light ripple on the water things work nicely. Now my issue, when its really glassy and I go into a glide the ski searches for an edge and typically the first edge it finds in the glide is the edge for a turn in so when I correct it my timing is shot and the pass usually stinks. Is this a common issue or am I doing something wrong? It was nice enough today that when I changed edges on approach to 1 ball it did it again...
  5. @Slalom_frog we are using an engine block on one end and a very heavy (over 100lbs) brake drum from a commercial truck. The come-along is attached between the 55's and the anchor. Everything is single line however we do have a section of old ski rope that runs along side the mainline from the anchor to the 55's as a security line in the event the come-along or cable should fail. We only put enough tension on the course to keep it straight. To much tension WILL fold the arms over between the boat guides and I do have photos of what PVC looks like when its bent in to a banana shape...

    The Hook Contraption was made by a guy I work with who took three pieces of rebar, welded them together at the top with an eyelet and bent three hooks at the bottom. It literally looks like a grapple hook and the hook ends are pretty open so they are sure to grab the cable. Do not sharpen the ends as you dont really want it to dig in.

  6. @slalom_frog we took a come-along and replaced the cable and all the screws and bolts out and rebuilt it with stainless hardware... It was a lot cheaper than buying a prefab stainless come-along. Unless our whole setup gets wiped out by flooding it lasts several years. We also (in the past) remove buoys and let the whole thing sit on bottom for the winter. In the spring we drag the hook @onside135 mentioned to grab the mainline and start snapping buoys back on. The comealong works great especially if your water level tends to flucuate.
  7. I had a 1990 model and skied behind 89-94 models and a 98 and a few others scattered here and there and know there were a few years in there that needed additional work to line things out.

    @mzito I thought that the "slot" was the standard with all LT1's???

  8. I set the CR/CS value alot lower and that seemed to help mine. I noticed that the engagement was sooner and that the seems to be getting right on speed at the gate instead of hot thru the gate like we had before. I saw the CR/CS adjustment noted on other posts from folks having the same/similar issue.
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