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PurdueSkier

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Posts posted by PurdueSkier

  1. I have a 94 eagle trailer and had the exact same problem. My trailer was about 8" too long and did not have a swing tongue. For mine the trailer frame came together at the "y" just before the break mechanism. To install the swing tongue I had to add a section of steel tubing. I cut the break mechanism off, welded the swing coupler to the trailer as close to the y as I could, then welded the break mechanism to the new short piece of tube steel and then welded that to the other side of the swing coupler. Not as complicated as it sounds. I just needed about 4"-6" of straight tube on each side of the coupler and didn't have it. I got the tube steel for free from a local shop. It was scrap laying on their floor. I bought all the stuff the took it to a trailer shop to do all the cutting and welding. They also had to splice my break lines since we extended the tongue. If I remember i think I only paid about $150 for the install and the even painted it for me. It was a great modification and makes garage storage much easier.
  2. I am doing some repairs to my parents neglected Prostar 190. One of the last items to address are areas of gel coat damage along two chines. There must have been some exposed wood on their lift that caused damage to the outer chine on both sides, toward the front of the boat. I have never worked with gel coat before. My question is this something I can do on my own or do I need to take it somewhere? It is white and on an underwater portion. So it doesn't have to be perfect. What is the process for a gel coat repair? Any tips?n7sutkbto2xh.jpg

     

  3. I have size 14 and wear a 13/14 radar vapor. I have been on several generations of this boot and love it. It was a bit snug until I heat molded the liners. With the 2016 boots I did not have to drill holes but it is close to the mounting limit on stock holes. On my old 2012s I did drill new holes where the boot mounts to the plate. Allowed me to slide the boot forward (I believe) and keep a more neutral mounting position. This left room for easy forward/backward mounting adjustments. The ski mounting hole locations and desires binding location will impact all of this. Drilling new holes for the boot to the plate was very easy. Just make sure you countersink the holes so the screws are flush.
  4. A few of my ski partners and myself are looking into an opportunity to lease a private lake for skiing. Site is currently an abandoned gravel pit that isn't being used at all. Does anyone have an example of a lake lease I could use as a starting point?
  5. 500 sets on a ski might be a lot i don't know and there are always advancements in technology and design. If you want a new ski go buy one. New toys are always fun. But don't think that you have to have a new ski to turn more buoys. I think it is a stretch to say most people buy a new ski every year. I am sure some do but if you go to a local tournament you see all ages of skis. 500 sets at 22 and 28 off is a lot different than 500 sets at 38 and 39. Your ski is most likely not what's keeping you from running 28. Again if you want a new ski go get one and enjoy. Just don't do it because you think it is required to run the next pass.
  6. How hard is it to switch out the rope/handle with a guard on it? Assuming the rope stays on the pylon like at a tournament and you have to put the loop over the handle. @RLW I like your idea but not sure if it will allow a handle change.
  7. If it feels better on the tail and sticks when on the front foot try moving the fin forward just a little. Maybe 0.005" that should relieve some of the pressure and let you stand taller. If that doesn't work take your boots off and let me try it.
  8. I recently skied the course behind a sport nautique 200 V Drive, just to see if I could. I skied 34 mph. At 15 off it was not skiable. The wake was big but the rooster tail was huge. It pushed up the back of my ski as I crossed. Not good. At 22 off it was skiable and I ran the course. However I felt I was jumping wake to wake. A beginner would not be able to do this easily. Surprisingly at 28 off and shorter, only got to 35, it was a tournament quality wake. I would not hesitate skiing behind it at shorter lengths. You are in front of the rooster tail and at a very nice spot on the wakes.
  9. I have been using masterline custom handles for several years. I have been getting good wear and life out of them but it's time for another new one. Does anyone have experience with the radar vapor handles? I like radar products and they stand behind them. The radar handle is available in the same width and diameter I have been using. It is also about $40-50 less. Do they hold up or should i just stick with Masterline.
  10. I own a 94 echelon and until recently also regularly skied and drove a 94 ProStar 190. I believe both boats are of similar quality and value. Both boats are all fiberglass. My

    Echelon has the optional fuel injected 454 so both Boats were also fuel injected. The echelon tracks better than the pro star but as mentioned above the ProStar has a softer wake. Weight changes and a prop change to the echelon made the Wake softer but not quite as good as the ProStar. I would not hesitate to buy either one as a good starter boat.

  11. @Wish was the EP year to year, or rolling? I believe it was each year. I do like that idea, I just don't think it is that different than using an early cutoff date and the ski year ranking. Part of the reason we don't hear "did you get your level 8" is because it only matters on or after the cutoff. You could have it based on a pervious year score, then lose it. If the cutoff was early in the ski year and we used a ski year ranking list, it would be the same.
  12. @Than_Bogan I agree, keep the email, fix the problem. I was excited to get my email, even if I just barely made it in.

     

    @JeffSurdej I think the ski year list should be the default view and what is used for qualifications. Yes, the list will be very small for a month or so after Nationals, but it will be accurate. If you want to look at where you are at any given time, then you can still look at the 12 month view as an option (just like the ski year is an option now).

     

    If we want to keep the changes small and simple, move the cutoff date earlier and use the ski year for qualifications. You can't just move the cutoff date. One issue now, is that any tournament that happens after the cutoff and before Nationals (this includes small class C tournaments not just State and Regionals), actually count toward 2 National qualifications. That doesn't really make any sense. Why should a class C tournament in late July count twice as much as one in June? If I ski in a tournament tomorrow, the score will count towards a 2017 national qualification (as a LCQ) per the current rules (any score achieved after the cutoff date). Assuming next year's cutoff date is the same or earlier, it will still be on my 12 month ranking list score when the cutoff date for 2018 happens. So it counts towards both.

     

    If we use the current ski year list, then all of this goes away. Any tournament after Nationals will count toward next year. Nationals will truly be the culmination of the ski year and the ranking list. We all start over next year. You can set the cutoff date whenever you want it. I agree that earlier is better, to allow for planning of regionals and nationals travel.

     

    My one last comment, is I don't like the time and money requirement to ski at Regionals, as a qualification for Nationals. I understand wanting the best to be at Regionals and needed competitors to show up, but from the family perspective it is hard to plan the travel for two major events.

     

     

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