GaryB

I can't really say if there was play the first time I drove it, the steering was quite stiff, I replaced the steering cable and propeller at the same time.

The cable is routed the same, it is properly clamped by the tiller, the cable does not seem to flex. We checked for play in several different rudder positions, i.e. he was holding the rudder still in several different positions and I tried to turn the wheel, no play. We also tried the reverse, I would hold the wheel still while he tried to move the rudder, no play. Can of worms is right. There is not any slop in the rudder side to side, front to back, or up and down. I may try putting the stock prop back on it. I need some expert set up advice. Any chance I am introducing air into the prop wash? The prop does not cavitate, has lots of bite, boat runs 44 with it.

The cable is routed the same, it is properly clamped by the tiller, the cable does not seem to flex. We checked for play in several different rudder positions, i.e. he was holding the rudder still in several different positions and I tried to turn the wheel, no play. We also tried the reverse, I would hold the wheel still while he tried to move the rudder, no play. Can of worms is right. There is not any slop in the rudder side to side, front to back, or up and down. I may try putting the stock prop back on it. I need some expert set up advice. Any chance I am introducing air into the prop wash? The prop does not cavitate, has lots of bite, boat runs 44 with it.

I will check the tiller arm, however it seems extremely unlikely, as the rudder was being held still and I was trying to turn the wheel with both hands, zero play in either direction.

We have a 1997 Malibu Sunsetter, new to us last season. At planing speed, the rudder is unresponsive through many degrees of steering wheel input, maybe 45 degrees estimated. At displacement speeds this is not true. The rudder appears straight and undamaged, no signs of contact with anything, same is true of the tracking fins, all three look straight and undamaged. The propeller is a new Acme 515, installed by me, alignment checked good, no vibrations. The steering cable is new, installed by me. There is no play in the steering system, I had my ski partner hold the rudder firmly in place while I tried to turn the wheel, solid, with zero play. There is no play in the rudder port. I'm stumped, need some ideas. Thanks. Gary

My thoughts are:Adding outer chines and cavitation plate,(adjustable hook), The intake is aluminum, the manifolds weigh 14 lbs apiece, oil pan will save 30 lbs. I'll run the fuel loads light, 30-40 lbs will come out of the interior, the wet foam will be 300lbs at least. Should the extended chines have a slight downward angle? Follow the angle thats there? Some very rough calculations: Current: 2500 lbs weight, running on 56 sq ft of hull surface. 45lbs/ sq ft. Add 1 1/2 chine extensions and a 9" cavitation plate, plus reduced weight, 2100lbs running on 63 sq feet of hull surface, 34lbs/ sq ft. I realize these do not take into account any of the dynamic forces of the hull in motion, (I simply do not have any knowledge in that area) but that is a big improvement.

What would your suggestions be on the minor tweaks? significan't mods?

I can get plenty of pulls behind a buddy's sportster, the nautique is a hoot to drive, I'll just be asking for lots of pointers on wake crossing!

The boat needs more surface area to run on for more lift, a full width cavitation plate would add surface area, would add transom lift, and by getting the bow down would add lift over the entire running surface? It would kill the boat for footing however, raise the cav plate up for more footing speed?

I could saw it in half and widen the transom, ala Rob Shirley. anyway, a pic:

Sportster comes to mind, good wake, good footing boat, maybe in the future. The Nautique is getting a new floor anyway. Jody, I called you a few weeks ago about an oil pan, you were out of town, I'll try again.

I know about the diminishing returns but... I realize the main issue is: The boat is very narrow and blows a big hole in the water. Lighter will have to help, are there any other changes I can make? There seems to be some hull design knowledge here. I'm still on the fence with the tower, don,t picture a tower as you know it, but a well intergrated bimini frame, that follows the lines of the boat, not high enough to walk under. I'll mock it up with pvc conduit before I pull the trigger on it. The real reason I came over here was to improve my skiing, I'll work on core strength over the winter, and lots of questions and video in the spring, I would also like to gain enough know how to get my kids started on the right track. Thanks for all the input. Gary

I would like to improve the wake on my '73 ski nautique, the boat is going to go on a serious diet this winter. A few hundred pounds of wet foam are coming out, along with any other weight I can get rid of : Lighter ski platform, lighter oil pan, minimal interior, lightweight floor construction, lightweight battery. I'm seriously considering a "mini tower" with integral bimini and ski racks, it would add a little weight, but stiffen the boat up, and improve function. I'm looking for better wakes for recreational skiing, 32-34 mph, and to allow the boat to maintain a better pull at footing speeds with multiple footers. The boat is powered with a Palmer/ Thermo-electron 351 upgraded with GT40p heads, a custom cam, performer intake and Hi-Tek manifolds, It turns a OJ four blade 13 x 13 to 5050 rpm at just under 49 mph. What about cavitation plate/hydrogate, lifting rails, spray rails, etc...