buoyboy1

Just dip the loop ends of the rope in the water before you ski and it will go away.

A few years ago my 05 would turn over but not start. It ended up being the kill switch. I disconnected and then reconnected it 4 or 5 times and it did the trick. The plastic will degrade over time.

29.75 6.922 2.480 .756 wing 8 (using CG fin but same settings with stock fin).

Horton - You should have called this Episode "Distance from Center"..... :D

Added Aquashade Lake Dye about a month ago for the first time and have noticed the water temps are about 5+ degrees warmer than normal for this time of year. I usually don't hit mid 80's until early-mid July. Would love some feedback from other lake owners that have used dye and what it did to their lake temps compared to times when it was not dyed. Thanks.

I just dyed my 12 acre lake last week. It is 10 feet deep and I used 25 gallons of Aquashade. Calculate the number of gallons in your lake and use 1 gallon for every 1.2 million gallons (other products may vary). My lake worked out to about 30 million gallons. My visibility went from about 6 feet to less than 18" which is what you want to reduce weed growth.

@34mph. I have a brand new Stokes EVO (Large) on SIA if you want to save some money. Great quality vest, just did not fit me quite right.

I regret using grass carp. Since they are untrained, they will take care of your important shoreline vegetation when they are done with the invasive/submerged plants.

I think Jim Michaels used a "portable" course....:)

Agreed. Try to keep as much shoreline vegetation as possible as your perfect shelf will disappear over the years unless you are in sandy conditions. Several years ago I replanted Pickerelweed (lost existing vegetation due to unruly sterile carp), and now when I get done skiing there is zero turbidity near the shorelines. Before it was turbid and muddy for about 20 feet out. Muddy water after skiing = erosion.

Correction: I just noticed that the rope in the photos does not actually wrap around the pulley itself, which I hopefully corrected before attaching to the eye-bolt. Also, I could not find those pulleys from McMaster Carr since its been about 8 years. Check out

e-rigging.com item number 51647105.

 

This is what I did for my lake that fluctuates about 12" max. It will work for more fluctuation by simply using shorter pvc. I used 3/4" dia electrical PVC on the ropes and snap tied them together as the ropes will easily twist . You can run as many calcs you want to determine how much sub-buoy you need but trial and error is the only way to get it perfect. Some pulleys had a little more resistance and some buoys had a little more or less air. I undid one end and kept cutting the sub buoy shorter from my jon- boat to get it right. I found the hole in the sub-buoy is the best way to keep things in perfect alignment and to keep the sub-buoy "out of the way". I did this for all turn balls and gates. I left the boat guides alone as they are not as critical and are on a bungee that can quickly get adjusted those few times a year. I have also found that even if you have a buoy that stays slightly below the water (like the right hand gate ball after you hit it on the previous pass), it will come back to the surface after the next pass due to the wakes shaking the buoy back up. The stainless steel pulleys (McMaster Carr) are attached with a stainless clevice on the eye-bolt anchor. Attach the end of the rope to the sub-buoy using a large 8" long galvanized nail around the loop end of a fidded rope. A knot in the end of the rope will get in the way of the rope that goes to the buoy.

@ Ed Johnson - Where did you end up on your short and deep settings? Are you still on an NRG? Thanks.

Having owned a lake for the past 18 years I have had better luck with larger (6"-9") rip rap and some slightly smaller to allow it to lock in better. Even it will tend to shift out away from the bank if not stacked deep enough and far enough out. I however only use it on my islands which take the worst beating. I do not use any along the shoreline. You want to make sure the rip rap extends out far enough so the rollers will start to break at the rip rap or you will lose a lot of soil over time. The loss of soil will also make it easier for the rip rap to start sliding out. A wave will want to break when the water depth is about 2/3 to 3/4 of the wave height.

I send all of my suits to O'Neill for repair. They are very reasonable on pricing and do really good work. Call Emanuel 619-336-6580 extension 6975.

@musclefixer I had been on the CG for over a year and bought a WF last summer to try out. Went back to the CG after 5 or 6 sets. I may have been able to get it to work better had I keep tinkering with it but the CG was simply much more user friendly for me (other skier results may vary). My offside was better with the WF but my onside was horrible. I ski way more consistent on the CG. Hope this helps.

After cutting, if there is only a few of inches of rebar exposed from the bottom, using brick with holes and stacking one or two high you could easily cover them up.

We used a tapered drill bit for enlarging the new hole and for the other side just leave the existing rubber grommet in place after pulling out the old puck wire. You can put a tiny bit of silicone in the grommet hole if you think its necessary.

Pull out all the rebar. Put in a portable course with one anchor each end. Start skiing.....

@6_Buoys I have had "golfers" elbow issues for many years. The only change I made this year was to use the new optimized rope and have had zero issues. I also use an 1.05 In-Tow radius anti rotational handle for over a decade and it really helps. I also have switched handles of different diameters every couple of weeks but not this year as I am down to one handle. Consider switching your grip so the repaired arm is now in the palm down position. It only takes about 4 or 5 sets to get use to it. I have also used the FlexTend glove and Thera-Band Flexbars with good success over the years. I also place both palms down when getting pulled up and it has helped a lot. Best of luck with the recovery.

I have a .095 WF (D3, Goode, HO, Connelly) with 5 sets on it if any one is interested. PM me if so. Thanks.

This is the first year in the past decade that I have had no elbow issues skiing and the only thing I changed was to use the optimized rope all season. Buoy count has also increased. I weigh 180.

About $3000 for ZO, new parts and labor back in 2011. I sold the perfect pass system and the ECM unit and was able to recoup about $800 back. Tim White from Inboard Solutions in AL did the conversion.

@Martin I have an 05 196 that was converted to ZO. Earlier ones can also be converted.

My lake was built in 3 months but did not ski on it for a full year to allow shoreline vegetation to establish and it was the best advice I could have received. If not you will get severe erosion and will regret it later unless you have 100 percent sandy soil. Think big picture.