dtm

I've used Fogmans for 14+ years. The system only works if both feet stay in the bindings. If one foot comes out, you don't have the correct leverage to create a "safe" release from the pins. It is dangerous to run them with one of the bindings loosened for comfort or performance. I use a shim under the heal of the rear boot to create a little lift for that foot. I would guess that the mistake was a loose rear boot, and not the selection of binding system.

I looked at the AWSA rulebook to find definition for the scoring. Here's what they say in regards to "skiing position"; 8.07 Skiing Position Skiing position is defined as that position in which all of the following exist: A. The skier has possession of the tow line; and B. The skier is riding forward or backward on the water with a ski or skis on his feet; and C. The weight of the skier is supported by his ski or skis and the skier is ultimately able to regain control. 3.25 -Taking into consideration 8.07 ©....There may be a lot of "halves" given, when the more appropriate score would be a quarter.

Try to keep your handle parallel to the water as you come up out of your pullout and your 1,3,5 pulls. That will help keep your back shoulder maintaining direction, and keep the line tighter.

Thanks for the responses. I feel as if the ski is "lifted"...more the front of the ski than the tail. I know that boats will ride higher (and throw a smaller wake) in shallow water. My inclination was to make adjustments that would drive more of the front of the ski in the water and hold the tail at the finish. I tried moving the fin back and a little deeper which worked OK, but I think I need even more tip pressure. Going to try a F binding move forward next.

Anyone have some advice for adjusting ski for a really shallow site? I skied at a lake that has an average depth in the course is under 3'. (the bottom is very mucky, so injury is unlikely). The water is very warm/soft, but the ski felt very resistant to turning on the off-side.

There's a lot of skis floating around out there that are advertised as being one model with another model's graphics. Seems to be a lot of D3's out here in the West that are resold as such. I guess if you buy one and you ski well, it's the real deal. If you don't ski well, you've been duped. I would think the "class acts" in our sport would refrain from accusations that can never be proven.

I ski on a 2013 68" Prophecy. I'm @ 193#'s. I also tried several other skis, but always gravitated back to the Connelly. I agree that deep and short works the best. There is no doubt that you have to work a little harder on the Connelly. The payoff is that the ski sits so deep in the water in the turn, that it is more stable and allows for shifting weight when you need to. I've found that putting your bindings in a canted, "duck stance", works well on this ski. I cant the front foot toward the little toe @ 1/4", and the rear @1/2". Also, I run the front binding a "hair" forward of stock (may have to do with that I'm close to being in-between size 67-68"), and the rear about as close to the front as I can get it. My numbers are @ 2.520, 6.829, and .744, and 8 or 9 degrees on wing upside down; I move the fin back in cold water.

I know this has been addressed before, but what's the opinion out there regarding the best prop for private lake use at sea level? I noticed that the 200 is approved with a 3 blade (Acme 1458) this year. Looking to get the right performance, but also save some RPM's!

Seems like the "Big Dawgs" are rivaling, maybe even exceeding, the exposure received by the Pros. Pretty sure this is not healthy for the hope to broaden the appeal of our sport. Allow the Big Dawgs to have an avenue to qualify, but ski 36mph. The Masters is the most prestigious event in our sport. Men skiing 34mph out; Overall in.

I had the same issue with mine. I checked the whole system for possible air leaks, then I reassembled all the O-Rings (one in the strainer, and four in the pump housing) with a plumbers' grease, and the issue went away.

Nice timing for a sarcastic post. Who else stands behind their product for lifetime?

Try moving only the rear binding back, or straighten the rear binding (if rotated to "duck stance").

What I find most interesting about this pass is how he trusts that the line is going to pick him back up. He's loose from the line almost a third of the way back to centerline, but he doesn't panic and try to make a motion to get it back....he continues the turn and is strong enough to absorb the late connection. Don't think this is a technique you'd want to emulate, but definitely a great example of how to handle a loose line at the finish of a turn.

Up on USA Waterski http://www.usawaterski.org/pages/divisions/3event/main.asp

I was watching some video the other day....happened to be of the 2013 Moomba Finals. I noticed a couple of the skiers doing something unique that looked really advantageous. The two skiers who stuck out were Nate Smith and Nick Adams (Nick Adams fell early, and Nate had his gates taken away). After reading this article, I think they were accomplishing what is being referred to as "Smearing". I believe to know that Nate runs a "shallow" and "long" fin. I'm wondering if this set up, allowing the tail of the ski to be "higher" in the water, enhances the ability to accomplish this move.

This might have been discussed in another thread, but....I just got the Water Skier Magazine with a summary of the boats approved this year. The Centurion is listed as "New". What has been changed?

I had a fin break on a Phantom too. Happened right at the wakes coming from an on-side turn. One of the nastiest crashes I've ever taken. The reason the two tabs are still there is because the fin box did not properly clamp down on those two tabs, leaving it prone to premature wear. The fin box was one piece, connected at the front and the back. These connections inhibited the three screws from being able to tighten the fin box along the entire length. I ended up cutting the fin box in two with a band saw. If you ski on an HO with one of these early fin boxes, I would check to make sure the entire fin is getting secured.

Skied a lake in Central California twice this summer. The first time, in May, the lake skied great. I went back in September and I felt like I couldn't even pull out for the gates correctly. I had noticed a green "tint" to the water before I skied that hadn't been there the time prior, and the lake's owner stated he had quit putting dye in several weeks earlier. I was able to run passes, but the pull out and the turn in for the gate were so uncomfortable, that I could never get settled in. It felt as if the ski was very resistant to grabbing an edge and I would end up making exaggerated movements of my upper body to get going. I ski on a dozen or more sites a year, and this was completely unique.

Would be an interesting comparison....same mold, different core materials. I ski on a Prophecy (2102), and tried a 2013 the other day. I believe that the core is the main change in the two. The 12' being polyurethane and the 13' PVC. My first impression was that the 13' was stiffer/faster through the wakes and out to the buoy line, but much less forgiving when on the turning edge. Liking the 12' for now.