MISkier

By the way, the 2000 PS 205 was AWSA tournament approved. Not sure if the 1999 was, but I don't see why not.

The 1999 205 should be the same as the 2000. Those years used the 1995-1997 PS 190 hull with changes mainly above the rub rail and to the interior. 15 off was decent behind my 2000. I'd recommend a Malibu Response LX, but I think you would have issues with the rougher water that you said you were concerned about. The 205 has higher gunwales, takes rough water a bit better, and is less likely to dunk the bow - though you can do it with a few people up there and decelerating right into a roller (not that I would know or anything).

@AB, when you say "Click the ski", do you mean to have the tip turned slightly to the right or left (depending on forward foot) rather than straight up and down? Also, I never actually said anything about the grip. I can't even recall if she was using baseball or overhand. That could help some, too.

 

@Jordan, thanks. The amount of ski out of the water is something I've never specifically watched for. I'll try to drag her a bit and specifically tell her I am doing so for her to adjust some balance things.

 

I'd say I was overlooking a lot of finer details that might make the difference.

@AB, what visualization/instructions do you give to get someone up on one ski for the first time? I've taught a lot of people how to ski, but I always struggle with how to explain the deepwater slalom start. My daughter was trying this weekend and didn't have much success. She seemed to be compressing into the ski and building force rather than beginning any planing action. On a positive note, she did not go to one side or the other and fall over - just compress and let go of the rope. She has not tried (nor will try) to drop a ski. So, the slalom migration will have to be with a deep water start. She is a good skateboarder and snowboarder, so balance, agility and athleticism is not the issue. We used a borrowed ski that may have been a bit small and she was trying with both feet in. I am looking for some cue to give her to balance, absorb the force, and keep the ski under her while pulling up out of the water.

 

Unfortunately, she also tried wakeboarding this weekend. She popped right up on that the first time and held a great hips up, low handle, straight arms position. Looked like she was born to ride it. Thankfully, she did say she wanted to keep trying the slalom start.

Wait for the Saturday Pro Shootout event at the Michigan Big Dawg qualifier. Nate is supposed to be there. Nautique Boats. Lake Jepawhit. Very low winds, sunny and 81 in the forecast. Believe.

The review should be timely, while the skier is in the water and not of a duration that requires the skier to wait excessively to begin the next pass. Make the call and move on.

Goode 9100 in 2005. I had been skiing on an EP Super 2 since about 1980. The EP had no wing, no edge-to-edge concave like the Goode, and was as heavy as an engine block. The speed of the Goode, the turn, and the angle just blew my mind. I was accustomed to sliding the tail of that EP around the ball, but the Goode rode like it was on rails. I also noticed it took a lot less effort to get more speed and more responsiveness. I had to re-learn how to ski. But, all of those changes were absolutely for the better.

OK, after actually reading the ZO chart more closely, I am of the opinion that the + does not just affect the gate. So, altering your letter and number selection when adding the + would seem to affect the entire pass. The speed at the gate is the first (and possibly most noticeable) difference you feel, along with an easier hook up from one ball. But, with the changed Kd and clipping values for all the letters and numbers with the +, it must also alter the dynamics of the rest of the pass. So, I retract my questioning of a skier changing their usual letter/number combination when using the +. The entire pull is different with the +.

One of the key things in that "Riding the tail" thread is flexing the ankles to get the knees to bend and push forward. If you just bend your knees, you will squat (as @ShaneH said). Don't do that.

@AB,

 

I was told the plus setting applies to the numbers as well. So, you now get 18 settings (A1 through C3 and A1+ through C3+). I've only tried C2+. I've seen a few posts where skiers are selecting one less letter and/or number from their regular setting and adding the +. I'm not sure why they are doing that, because the + is only supposed to affect the gate and 1 ball. So, they are opting to change the setting for the 5 remaining balls without any adjustment from the +. Hope it works for you.

 

The chart in the ZeroOffRevR .pdf from the ZO site shows the affects of the plus for both letter and number, implying the 1,2, and 3 still mean something.

 

 

It looks to me like your legs are too straight (especially front) and your arms are pulled away from you with the handle high. I would recommend pushing your knees a bit forward. I often put one knee just behind the other and slightly to the side to cue them to bend/slide forward. For the handle, pin your elbows and triceps to the vest and keep your hands lower to your hip.

 

Others here are better with analysis and coaching, but it seems the straight leg might be forcing you to put extra pressure on your back leg to ride the tail. Get the knees and hips forward with some bend in the knees. You can see the straight leg right away after your pullout and into your glide.

@LeonL, how in the world did you know about the method to access that Aquastar download? The Zero Off site is not targeted toward ease of use and I would basically call that page of Rev R downloads hidden, for all practical purposes.

I think you need to program that @Chuck_Dickey has. The .MOT file is only data and configuration information that the program uses to update ZO. It seems you are missing the actual executable software for your laptop. Unless you were sent a second file from ZO that has a setup.exe file in it, you need to get the laptop software from someone.

 

I said it before and I will say it again: it would be easier to get missile launch codes than to obtain the proper cable and necessary upgrade components for ZO.

 

I had the dealer update mine in April. They have the $1200 cable and Diacom software kit that is used for all sorts of ECM programming. It can also update ZO. I paid $47.50 for the dealer to do the update and it took 20 minutes. The drive took 3 hours round trip.

I bought my first brand new truck, a 1996 Chevy Tahoe, and my first brand new boat within 6 months of each other. I specifically ordered 4-wheel drive because I knew I would be launching the boat from unpaved access locations on occasion. For my very first unpaved launch, I was nervous and wanted to be careful. I selected 4 wheel drive low because I didn't know that 4 high is plenty for all but the most ridiculous traction needs. I was careful to put the transmission in park so I wouldn't have the truck roll in, as has happened to others. I even put on the emergency brake. The boat launched fine. However, I experienced a lot of difficulty pulling the empty trailer out. The truck shuddered and labored and seemed to require every ounce of horsepower to pull it up a relatively small incline on hard-packed sand/gravel. I remember thinking that there was no way I would be able to pull the boat out if it was so hard to pull out the empty trailer. And, the truck had been named "Truck of the Year". I was actually cursing that title as I struggled (my exact thought was "Truck of the Year, my ass"). Then, I noticed the parking brake was still on. It tows much easier with that off. And, once I became more experienced with the truck. I haven't needed or used 4 wheel drive low since. By the way, I still have the truck, drive it everyday and tow the boat 100 miles one-way a couple times a week - all with 235,000 miles. So, I guess it really was "Truck of the Year".

You don't need islands with two interconnected lakes with channels on both ends. If you want to spin, you can finish a pass in one lake and "spin" by going to the other lake. Actually, that means the divider performs the function of the island. If they could figure out how to shorten the rope while moving, it would really reduce fatigue from deep water starts and put the emphasis on running passes.

That SNOB does look like a great deal. I've never skied behind that model. When you do check it out, see if you can get a pull behind it as well. Actually, that goes for any boat you consider....a test drive and a test ski, if you can get it.

I had the 2000 Prostar 205 (based on the 1995-1997 190 hull - a good design). Good wake, great room, excellent tracking. But, the 22 off bump was a bit much - though not too hard. Shorter lines were great and 15 off wasn't bad. I still like the 205 and would buy it again as an all-around family boat. But, if you are somewhat serious about slalom and are choosing between the two, I would get the 195. I believe the 2000 195 was also based on the 1995-1997 190 hull, not the later 1998-2000 190 hull. It is the same length as the 190, not stretched like the 205. Therefore, the 195 has the better hull design and better wake than the 205. I would avoid anything MC after 1997, other than the 205, 195,Skier 19, and SportStar, which still used the 1995-1997 hull.

 

I sold the 205 and bought a 2009 Response LX (step over open bow). Much, much better wake and the hull is basically unchanged since 1998 on those - a very good design. Many RLX can be had within your budget and substantially newer than 1998 or 2000.

 

Don't know the older Ski Nautique characteristics or market, but I sure like their 200 (which you will not touch for 20K).

 

I would not worry about 600 or 700 hours. I ski behind boats with double that and they perform well. Ask questions about the maintenance habits of the owner, any overheating history, clarity of the lake where used, saltwater use, etc. Above all, drive it and really assess the power, smoothness, and quietness of the engine/drivetrain.

 

Older open bow boats tend to make you choose between bow size and wake quality. The newer, and more expensive, boats reduced/eliminated that compromise.

My ski partner forgot to bring his ski to the lake once. Luckily, he was able to fit his slightly larger feet into my bindings and use my ski. At the time, we both used the same brand of ski and binding, so he was familiar with the handling/design. It wasn't the correct size or flex for him, but he easily ran passes that I can't, which only punctuated the fact that I am the problem (not the ski).

One of the skiers at a tournament here recently was in Florida for some coaching and saw Nate get around 3 in practice. Then, Nate got in the boat like nothing happened and coached. It will happen.

If you are skiing tournaments and/or a lot of other boats with ZO, I would get the zBox. If you are just skiing your own boat and don't participate in tournaments (or ever plan to), don't change. As mentioned, the new SG/zBox with course mapping, etc. is nice from a convenience and accuracy perspective. I occasionally ski behind a 2001 RLX with zBox and it feels very close to my 2009 RLX with ZO. I wish all the other boats in our ski club had zBox.

Does the boat already have PP? Does the boat already have a foot throttle or are you modifying it? The key PerfectPass components that manage the throttle are on the engine. If you had PP already and wanted a foot throttle, it would depend on what you are altering to install the foot throttle. So, as long as you don't change the linkage (or drive-by-wire components) on the engine, it seems like it would still work. However, now you are altering the throttle stability a little and that may affect how PP stays engaged. You would have to keep your foot steady at the throttle position where PP engaged. You couldn't let up or press down any significant amount or you will override PP or it will think you have taken control and disengage. A hand throttle stays in position when the driver releases it (or stops applying movement). Your foot throttle would have to do the same or the driver would need to maintain the last foot throttle position in order for PP to continue to operate.

@richarddoane, I'd be interested in the results of the water-filled Turnsoft buoys also. So, please post any info.

If it is multi-line display, it is probably 6.5NG. The manuals (depending on servo or drive-by-wire) are here:

 

http://www.perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass%20-%20Copy/images/digitalpro65mechanical.pdf

 

http://www.perfectpass.com/sites/all/themes/perfectpass%20-%20Copy/images/digitalpro65manual.pdf

 

When I mentioned RPM mode, I did not mean drive by hand. I meant to select an RPM-based menu option and specify that PerfectPass maintain your selected RPM for you rather than apply any speed-based control. That topic is covered in Section 5 of either of these manuals.

 

I know that, when I was looking at PerfectPass before they eliminated the paddle wheel requirement, I was told that the system would work without the paddle wheel but would lose some options. I didn't want to cut a hole in my boat at that time. Fortunately, just before I bought, they released the version of StarGazer with no paddle wheel and I bought that. Now, I have a different boat and ZO.

For trick and/or speeds less than 23 mph, I believe you can use RPM mode and just specify the amount of RPMs that is roughly equivalent to the speed you want. Again, your GPS speedo app will help you establish that rough translation.

 

My ski partner's boat has DigitalPro 6.0xy and no paddle wheel. We use RPM mode for his trick skiing (about 2070 RPM for him, IIRC).

I've skied on a couple lakes with the offset islands where we didn't use them. I kind of like that setup. Gives you the option to spin and also allows the straight shot.