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Portable slalom course


WIskier
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Another vote for EZ Ed. Great product and a great person to deal with. I've had one of his temporary courses permanently installed for over three years now. Its never been out of the water. I've yet to have one bit of trouble with it, no repairs what so ever. It stays amazingly straight. In the three years I've tightened the anchors maybe three times total.
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I'm flattered by all of the positive comments, thank you all. I just try to do my best to treat people the way I would want to be treated were I on the other end of the deal and to give full value for dollar spent. Always good to hear that people appreciate that, thank you.

 

Wiskier please feel free to call me personally if you have any questions or want specific info, no obligations. I'm happy to chat with you and answer your questions in as much detail as you require.

 

Ed

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We have customers who have had their poly rope mainlines in the water for 12 - 13 seasons with no problems, although almost all take them out in the winter and put them back in in the spring. I get to see one occasionally for repair from prop damage or sabotage and I'm surprised and pleased to see what good shape they're in despite having been in the water for that many seasons. Speaks to the quality of the rope we use IMO.

 

I can't guarantee how long your's used in that manner will hold up but I'll be interested to see how long it does go. If you're not having any issues now I'd say you're good to go, don't worry about it.

 

One thing you do need to be aware of is that there is floatation foam in the center sections of each buoy arm. Left in the water long term the foam "waterlogs" (for lack of a better description), loses it's floatation ability, and requires replacement. I'd replace it at least once a year. You can get it at any hardware or home center store and it's cheap. If you don't you'll get sag in the center of the arm; identify arm sag by looking at your boat lane buoys. If the inner boat lane buoy is floating normally and the outer is floating higher than the inner that's a clear sign of arm sag (assuming the buoy lines are of equal length). You start getting that, replace the foam. There are other ways to deal with the arm floatation issue but replacing the foam would be the first option. If you need more info give me a call or an e-mail.

 

Cheers, Ed

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Ed, its good to hear that you have little issues with long term use of the poly mainline. Regarding the buoy arms, I went with the larger diameter sch 40 PVC pipe (can't remember the size) with sealed PVC flotation logs. I suspect the arms to last forever. I should probably add fresh zip ties to the logs to keep them on the arms. Is there any other zip ties that I should consider replacing (not including those on the buoy lines)? The zip ties on the buoy lines have a tendency to break with age. They are the only maintenance that I ever perform on the course. I think it'd be wise to replace zip ties anywhere else on the course.
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We've kept two courses on the bottom of the swamp thru the winter for about 5 seasons. Doesn't save us a ton of time on bringing it up, but a lot at end of season dropping it. We have poly line and no issues. Prior to that the two courses were summer only for a good 10 years.

Since keeping in full time, we have had corrosion of the pop up buttons that click together the telescoping sections. They corrode away in time, and the telescoping pvc can simply pull apart. We have a bunch of spares in the glove box now.

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www.mydeo.com/videorequest.asp?XID=87246&CID=51655

 

Ed gives you a manual on how to install. its easy. takes 1 or 2 times to get a process going.

 

3 people is perfect; 2 install 1 drive, but 2 people can do it no problem.

 

the most effecient way to do it on big water is the ski boat has all the gate sections, a tin boat has all the buoy arm sections and turn buoys. they follow the ski boat. you just need more body's and a tinner lol

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bxroads - don't mess with the cable ties on the mainline. Otherwise whatever maintainance you think would be pertinent. Forgot that you'd gotten the HD Arm Kit with the poly mainline. Stay in touch and let me know what issues you have as you go along. Good info for the data base.

 

Wiskier - shoot me an e-mail and I'll send you the install instructions. Pretty straight forward process, once you've done it a few time you'll know about as much about it as I do.

 

6balls - a set of stainless steel spring clips to replace your standard issue galvanized ones will fix your problem. We got 'em, if you want a set ping me.

 

Cheers, Ed

 

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We actually do that too. Not all the time but fairly frequently. Basically the deck is bare except for the drivers consol, we leave the arms partially assembled and collapsed as much as possible, even leave the buoys attached. Arms lay out along one side, boat gate sections on the other. Just sort the buoys/buoy lines over the side rail before starting and it goes pretty quick. Definitely a really good way to do it.

 

Ed

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Ed

Is cupper crimps still the best? We had a couples of them that broke due to corrosion.The course has been in the water for 5 years now and sitting in mud at the bottom in winter.

I temporairly replaced with aluminum ones but just got my 17'' crimpers pliers and 100 cupper crimps that are a bit shorter then yours.

Beside the corroded crimps,the course is still looking great in it's 6 th season!!!

Great product!

My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance!

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@WIskier Before installing it the first time, we put one of the arms together on the shore. After that, it was pretty simple. A cross wind can make it a bit difficult. We have the drive use a paddle to keep the boat facing straight while we extend the arms. Install is now about 25 min.
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