Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Recently acquired a flex tester. I am interested in how those people that have one do a proper flex test. I have seen the U tube demo but is that the method the manufacturers use? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted November 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Measure from the tail then side to side to find the middle tail (17″), mid-tail (25″), middle (33″) and tip (41″). I use a dry erase marker to make the mark. Each manufature preloads to a different weight. Though this may not change the end result to much it is good to know how the mfg. does it so you can replicate their process. These are the preloads I have written down. HO 60lbs O'brien 40lbs Connelly 30lbs Radar 60lbs D3 20lbs Fisher 35lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Good info Matt P. Thanks! Any other tips out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Also wondering which number to use. Do I use the initial or the final settled number, or record all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Bruce_Butterfield Posted November 14, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted November 14, 2013 I also take a measurement at 20" from the tail. This allows you to check without removing the fin. If you get measurements within 1-2 lbs you are doing good. Don't sweat differences less than that. If it was easy, they would call it Wakeboarding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Thanks Bruce! Really is a pain to remove the fin and then reset everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 I did some testing with another skier who also has a tester and we took the initial reading as closer to the OEM flex as noted on the skis. We also looked at using different preloads and what seemed more important was that there was a preload of some amount. The actual pressure needed to bump the dial seemed to not be dependent on preload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Thanks @AB. I don't have OEM flex numbers on my Razor. Also haven't had a chance to try different preloads yet. Nice to know that actual pressure was not preload dependent. Did you use the initial pressure number or the number after sitting static for a little while? Not a big difference but it does bleed down after a bit then stabilize. I would think for efficiency manufacturers would use the initial number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 I think the Razor model that the other guy tested had very little difference or none at all in initial and settled. All other skis settled some. I do not know what the mfg use but every video or instruction sheet I have seen used initial. My Stradas had flex on them and initial was very close. I found if you are off fractions of an inch on the dot, you can get a few pounds different, so good to mark and hit the same spot as close as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted November 14, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 @thager a modification like this will let you get the 17" measurement with out having remove the fin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Thanks guys! @MattP Mine is not that high tech but it's got me thinking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 14, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 14, 2013 Dang! Mr. Erb does nice work!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 16, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 16, 2013 Just did the numbers on my Razor using 35 lb. preset and then 60 lbs. preset. Surprised at the difference in the numbers. 35lbs 59-106-125-128 60lbs 85-115-142-170 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 16, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 16, 2013 Did you leave it in the same spot and measure at the same location or take all measures and then try again? Those numbers look a little fuzzy. You didn't pop a 6-hour energy drink in between measures did you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 16, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 16, 2013 @AB Two separate measures. It doesn't take much to preset 35 lbs then flex 1/10 of an inch. Since this is for my own measurements and amusement over time I am going to use the 60lb presets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted November 16, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 16, 2013 @thager contact your skis manufacture with your skis serial number to get its factory #s and ask for their pre load amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller AggieSkier Posted November 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2013 @thager When a ski flex shows an "off" number it requires a re-test. Looking at your 30# pre-load - the 125 and 128 numbers are too close to each other and send up a re-test flag. The numbers on your 60# preload are consistent in the range of flex for the skis I've tested - mainly Radar, HO & Goode - no Razor. I use 60# pre-load and record the initial reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BG1 Posted November 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2013 @thager Your ski may have a twist in it. If the ski is twisted, it will give low numbers until you apply enough pressure to make all four contact points touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Chef23 Posted November 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2013 I don't have any idea if I prefer a softer ski to a stiffer ski. Having these numbers would confuse me. If I got to try a bunch of different skis and knew the numbers I guess it might make some sense to me. In general is there some guidelines for when a stiff ski is better than a softer ski? I understand it for golf shafts including the impact of torque and flex point on a golf shaft but I don't have any understanding for skis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 18, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2013 @thager, my friend agreed that when we tested 10-60 lbs of pre load didn't matter. I am puzzled by your numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 19, 2013 Author Baller Share Posted November 19, 2013 @BG1 You're close! @ AB. I built the machine myself with available tools, out of aluminum angle and round aluminum rod. Aluminum angle is pretty easy to work with but drilling round rod with a hand drill was challenging since my drill press is too small. Drilled slightly out of center on one end. Tapping was not easy either. My machine was 1/8 inch low on 1 corner which means it did not engage all four points at the 35 lb. preload. With a 60 lb. preload all four points engage and was not a factor. I got flex numbers for my Razor from Volker today and my numbers are +- 2 lbs. across the board @60lbs,. Pretty darned close! I am interested in figuring out when a ski has gone soft. My Fisher #01 was great for two years then suddenly would not get up and go. Quite a difference between the Fish and Razor. Keep in mind that @Razorskier1 skied the crap out of it before I got ahold of it!!! It's winter. I like building stuff during the off season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 19, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 19, 2013 @Thager, A friend had a similar problem with one of his skis after a month or so. The flex tested ok, but, we thought it may have lost torsional flex with no way of testing, so he sent it back to the manufacturer, and they agreed and replaced it. If you want to tinker around this winter, build a frame that holds the ski tail and allows a tool to twist a side in the front of the ski to measure how much force is needed to raise that side some specified amount. Does anyone know what and how the torsional flex is tested? Less torsional flex would effect the roll of the ski. Just my guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MattP Posted November 19, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 19, 2013 @AB I have a pretty good idea how torsional flex is tested at the manufactures. Lets just say you don't want to repete their process... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ MarcusBrown Posted November 19, 2013 Baller_ Share Posted November 19, 2013 I found a video about this exact topic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 19, 2013 Baller Share Posted November 19, 2013 I've seen that before. What size forklift are you using? How wide are forks? It doesn't look like preload is a factor. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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