Baller Rpc29 Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 I scraped up my ski pretty good at a tournament this weekend and wanted to ask all of you guys about options for fixing it. Here is a picture of the bottom: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skibug Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 That is a bad spot to mess with fixing. It will be very difficult, if even possible to get the bevels right. You may want to contact Radar and see if they can do it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller gregy Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 Should be some deals on green vapors on ski-it-again. How did it happen? @eleeski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 The ski is shot. Send it to me to properly dispose of it. Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Fehlindra Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 its epoxy resin on the bottom of the ski so its possible to even out the damage with 800 grid water paper and then fill out the scratch (build up) then to the time consuming lap it down to the right level important to use epoxy resin dont know what radar use but there are some that dont turn amber color West System 207 is the best of them all what i heard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skialex Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 For issues like this is why I do not like Vinil layer finish. Skis that hide the carbon with paint are easier to repair and can look and work like new. Leave it as is or if you don't like the looks contact Radar and ask if they can refinish the bottom, it might be tricky though I think the ski can not be cooked for a second time. You can cover the scratces and carefully sand it, it might ski better but it wouldn't look like before. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller AdamCord Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 Really light scratches may not need anything if they are only cosmetic, the bigger scratches along the bevel look like they need to be filled. You could use a filled epoxy but it's much harder to sand and your chances of altering the shape of the bevels goes up a lot. I use body filler like bondo because it is softer than the ski surface so you can sand it down and get the shape right much more easily. Mask off that area of the ski leaving only the areas that need to be filled unmasked. Mix up a small amount of bondo. Use a scraper to spread the bondo into the scratches, being careful to scrape off any excess as you go. You just want to fill the scratches and not build up any excess material. If you build excess material it'll be really hard to get the shape back to where it's supposed to be. This is important, leave the masking tape on for this step! Once the bondo has cured lightly sand with some ~220 grit any high areas where you may have put on a little excess bondo. You want it to look like there is only bondo in the cracks. Then you can remove the masking tape and move on to 400 and 600 grit wet sand paper. Take your time to sand out any bumps or ridges you may have built up. Remember that sanding away a scratch means you're altering the shape of the ski. Sanding away bondo you've built up means you's sanding to get back to the original shape. Take your time and the ski will perform just like it did before. If it's too ugly for you try and find some paint that matches the ski. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller mwetskier Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 @AdamCord -no way would i ever try to tell *you* any thing about working on a ski but i have done some delicate custom auto body work in my youth and i'm wondering if you left out an important point of using a sanding block with your sand paper? its real easy to apply finger pressure wrong to the back of a piece of sandpaper and leave ripples you didn't meant to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Fehlindra Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 the 2016 vapor have larger sweetspot take some measurements of it and copy it whola 2016 performance on a lambo green ski joke aside as mwetskier said u rly need to take it easy so u don't change the form of the ski and affect its performance but its doable with some patience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 @Rpc29 My earlier post was a joke. That ski is fine. You probably can't ruin it. It may never ski exactly like when it came from the factory - maybe you will like it better. Personally, I prefer a rough edge. My edge finish is 24 grit to leave rough scratches showing. That seems to keep the edge from skipping out a bit in the turn without adding much drag. Unintentionally you have started an experiment, continue. @AdamCord has good ideas. Except I'd use Superfil (epoxy micro balloons available from Aircraft Spruce online) as the filler. Superfil bonds better, has a longer work time, sands easier, doesn't shrink with age and is lighter. Also I never use fine sandpaper. 100 matches most factory finishes pretty well. Super gloss does weird things to the water flow across the ski and won't stay that glossy anyway. Paint will fill the sanding scratches (OK maybe you need 200 for perfect gloss but life's too short for fine sandpaper). The finer sandpaper won't remove material, just polish the shape already there. Getting the factory shape is the critical goal. I also disagree with @mwetskier about the sanding block for this repair. Sanding blocks are wonderful tools but it is too easy to remove material from the factory edge with one. You want to sand as little as possible to avoid changing the shape of the factory edge. I sand with my index finger doing the cutting so I can really feel what I need to remove. You are absolutely correct if you are building a custom edge, the sanding block is critical (maybe with some angle guides for real consistency). Bottom line, there are very few skiers who could feel the difference or have it affect the buoy count. Your ski looks like crap so clean it up. Enjoy the ski until you are ready for the next version of the latest and greatest. Or score @MS 's magic Monza with the funky bottom finish. Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller mwetskier Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 @eleeski -thousands of top notch auto body workers use sanding blocks religiously to cut in sharp fender lines and true up panel edges every day. do you mind if i pass along your advice so they can quit doing it wrong as soon as possible? okay all kidding aside i'm talking about a firm backing block behind the sand paper -not one of these soft foam abrasive cubes that some hardware stores sell as ' sanding blocks '. a backing block is what you use if you *dont* want to accidentally change the shape of a surface while your leveling it with sand paper . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller OldboyII Posted August 23, 2015 Baller Share Posted August 23, 2015 @Rpc29 now you need to ski in USCG approved vest only. Because through these holes porous core of your ski will absorb so much water so instead of deep water start you may perform "submarine style" dive )) Joke. I do not see any serious damage of ski. Just light sandparer touch is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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