Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 You guys are awesome and always a lot of help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted October 19, 2015 Baller_ Share Posted October 19, 2015 That is way turned down. I betting that is max as to how far down it should go. That's your wake problem. Start adjusting it back up. Has to be flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Makes sense, person we got the boat from said his kids wake boarded.......can't believe I didn't catch on to that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Ed_Obermeier Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 @Howa1500 that era Supra's were notorious for allowing water to leak down through the floor where the cutouts for the exhaust goes down into and under the floor. Wasn't sealed to keep the water out and there was nowhere for the water to go except to soak into the foam. With wood floors and stringers, assuming the foam is indeed wet if those aren't already soft they will likely go soft and need to be addressed at some point. If so, ripping it all out and starting over is the only remedy. The first boat I ever owned, a well used 1970 Larson Shark tri-hull, had floor and stringer rot with soaked foam. Spent an entire winter ripping it all out (digging all the wet foam out was a total bitch) and redoing it as best I could on limited knowledge and even more limited budget. Good learning experience but I'll damn sure never do it again. Best done by a pro with the right knowledge and tools. In that era Supra was the slalom boat of choice and would likely have been where Malibu i.e. is now if it weren't for this issue. Once people realized the problems with these boats they quit buying them, which killed Supra's share of the tow boat market. They finally too late fixed the issues by re-engineering their boats but by then the marketing damage was already done and the other manufacturers had snagged their market share. Still great tow boats though, just problematic maintenance wise with regards to the foam/floor/stringer issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 So the probability of the foam under the floor being wet is very likely. I have a hard time comprehending what you're saying about where the water is getting in from. So I guess my best bet is to rip out the floor and see if the foam is wet. What are the advantages of putting in a composite floor like @Wish said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 I found the most common source of water intrusion under the floor was at the transom where exhaust pipes come through. You may just want to make an exploratory hole through the floor just behind the drivers seat using a one inch hole saw/drill. Sometimes you could tell from a small weep hole that should exist through both stringers about at the front of the engine. About a 1/8 inch or smaller hole. Hard to find, but if you do you likely will see signs of water having dripped out of the hole (a liitle black streak underneath). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Will definitely have to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller GregHind Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 Wow that plate is turned down a mile. As others have said, make it perfectly level and then experiment with putting it down a very small amount. I would weigh the boat and see if it is likely waterlogged before drilling holes. If it is, then you really should fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Waternut Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 Do some a little research before even drilling an "exploratory hole". There are plenty of writeups on the web on nearly every boating forum. None are super difficult for someone with a decent amount of mechanical aptitude but they are very time consuming and you never really know what you'll have to replace until you dig into it. Removing the engine makes the job a lot easier if that's an option. You'll easily spend $1000 or more just doing the job yourself and will likely never recoup those costs by selling the boat. Just an FYI... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Most likely going to weigh the boat and compare to what it's actually supposed to be. If there's a drastic difference maybe it's water logged and it'll be a winter or spring project to rip out the floor and dig through the boat (hoping to put a new floor in regardless) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller aupatking Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 If you replace your floor, make certain you find a good closed-cell foam. Up until the recent past, all that was widely available was an open cell foam that absorbed water. Thankfully that's not the case anymore, and not terribly expensive. Between that and composites, you can restore a boat to outlast you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Might just have to pull the boat out early next year and get a start on fixing up the boat, most likely needs a decent amount of work, floor is a project in itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jordan Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 If you take the boat to a fibreglass repair shop...they will go around the hull tapping with a hammer...a sharp sound and it's dry....a dull thud and it's wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Skoot1123 Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 @Howa1500 - gotta love the hockey stick method. It also appears that the plate itself has a curvature to it - ie curved down. Keep us all posted on the progress. Will be fun to track through the winter season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Would the repair shop be able to do something for me or just diagnose my boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Good method, play hockey got left over sticks why not! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jordan Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 The fibreglass repair shop could any work that was required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Sounds like something definitely worth considering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller foxriverat Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 Your looking at $3000 to $4000 for stringer repair from a shop. A friend of mine just did it himself on his 1986 supra comp and has everything well documented here. http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?17789-Supra-Comp-Born-1986-Reborn-2015 you will have to join the supra forum to view the pictures and also the forum has a wealth of knowledge to help you with your boat. I have been a member for 6 years. And in those 6 years I would have to say 90% of people that buy the old wooden supras have stringer rot. I hope you dont. But theres a good chance. Water also gets in under the rubrails. See if there is a bead of silicone under the rails. First you need to straighten that wake plate and see how your wake is. Man that things way down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 That's crazy how he had 1200 pounds of water logged wood and foam that he shed off the overall weight of the boat. Really makes me think if my boat is waterlogged although it doesn't seem like it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted October 19, 2015 Baller Share Posted October 19, 2015 I was trying not to be a bummer, and bring up possibility of stringer rot. But, @foxriverat is correct that this is a real concern. You may want to check these things out soon, so even if you don't start the rebuild work until spring, you could remove whatever is wet/rotted (if anything) before storing and give the rest of the boat plenty of time to dry out. The link foxriver provided should give you much of the "how to" and when done, can give you a boat better than original. And, the pride you did it yourself. Maybe even a lighter boat when done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Took into consideration all the thoughts and ideals as to why there was a considerable "rooster tail" on the back of this ski boat that clearly shouldn't have been there. Pulled the boat out early spring to mold the wake plate dead flat and made a substantial difference....wake is gorgeous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted May 13, 2016 Baller_ Share Posted May 13, 2016 Now that's the wake my 87 had!! Nice. Glad to see you sorted that out!! Great boat. Waaay ahead of its time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted May 13, 2016 Baller Share Posted May 13, 2016 Yes sir! Nice job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisroddy Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Yep, that looks about the same wake as my 89 Conbio. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Is it possible to install any form of perfect pass or zero off on this boat. It doesn't have a speed control system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted May 13, 2016 Baller_ Share Posted May 13, 2016 Yes. Perfect Pass for cable throttle will work just fine. I purchased a used one on the cheap for my 87. Worked great. Look to see what's on SIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Will all versions of perfect pass work for this boat @Wish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Wish Posted May 13, 2016 Baller_ Share Posted May 13, 2016 yes and no. From year to year PP has upgraded the system to new versions. Within each of those upgraded versions there is a version for cable throttle boats...yours and "drive by wire" boats (an electric controlled throttle)..not yours. All versions of cable throttle will work. If lets say a used PP system is on ski it again and it says "drive by wire", that will not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ MISkier Posted May 13, 2016 Baller_ Share Posted May 13, 2016 You probably won't be able to use any of the drive-by-wire (DBW) versions of PerfectPass. But, there should be some mechanical throttle versions that will work. What type of engine do you have? The folks at PerfectPass are very helpful. They should be able to tell you exactly what works. If you buy new from them, they even have the display gauge specifically for Supra. Check out their website for more info. The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howa1500 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 thanks @Wish @MISkier our supra has the old ford engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pastoreddierides Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Basic rpm to speed formula is for example a 13x13x1 prop 1st number is diameter second is cut (distance forward per rotation in inches) 3rd number is prop shaft diameter. This prop at 3000rpm calculates like this 3000. Rpm X13. Cut 39,000. inches forward per minute 12 inches per ft. 5280 ft per mile 60 minutes per hour 39,000÷12=3250ft per minute 3250 × 60min = 195,000ft per hour 195,000÷5280=36.931......mph Less 10-12% slippage and drag Speed is 33.6mph tadah!!! Simple huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller scuppers Posted August 11, 2019 Baller Share Posted August 11, 2019 Cool boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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