Replacement "inserts" for Goode Powerplate?

[Than_Bogan]

Anybody know where you can order those nut-like inserts that go under a Goode Powerplate?

 

Didn't see them on Goode's site and I couldn't come up with an google search terms that got even close.

[Horton]

8 32 weld nuts?

[Chef23]

Do you have a picture?

[gcam4]

I would assume McMaster Carr would have them, but I'm unsure what they are. They do have about anything you could ever need though.

[Than_Bogan]

Yeah, I think my real question is: What are those? Sadly, I don't have a picture, as I thought to ask the question after I had put everything back on the ski.

They do resemble Weld Nuts (thanks -- I had never heard of those!), but I don't think that's literally what they are. I was hoping to be lazy and that somebody already knew.

[skihacker]

I found early on with mine that I was folding that square aluminum nut in half and pulling them through the plate. I switched to a low profile stainless nut with a large stainless washer and haven't had any further problems. The square nuts can be had with a call to goode I believe.

 

 

 

 

[Chef23]

Well not to state the obvious but have yo dropped a note to Goode?

[FLeboeuf]

I ordered them by calling goode. They do sell them but not online.

[Horton]

This?

 

[skihacker]

Those with a washer is what I used instead of the aluminum

[Than_Bogan]

@skihacker Wait a second. Are you saying you ripped those right through the G10 plate? Was that before or after you held up your Sword of Grayskull and bellowed I Have The Power?

 

More serious question: With that weld-nut style, what prevents it from just spinning when you tighten down on it?

[Horton]

@Than_Bogan they spin. You just have to pay attention. Not rocket surgery.

[gcam4]

Fogman's also use the weld on nut if I'm not mistaken. They machine a counterbore slot in the hardshell so the insert slides in it and it doesn't spin.

[Than_Bogan]

Man I hate paying attention.

[skihacker]

I think it shows that i'm a little chubby and a hack, yes i ripped the aluminum nuts through the plate, mostly the rear 2 nuts of the rear boot but started doing the same thing at the back of the front boot also. The nuts were indeed from an old fogman setup, they will spin so you have to hold with pliers when tightening, and can't make any changes with the plate on the ski. I got into the habit of removing the plate once every few weeks to check this as you can't really see it with the plate on the ski.

[eleeski]

@lazy @Than_Bogan If you take a stainless T-nut and break off the spikes, enough of the spike stays there to keep from spinning. A real pain if it spins on removal as it's hard to grip. Since I get them in bulk, I use the stainless T-nut a lot with good results. And the spikes are easy to break off.

 

The T-nut is too high profile for many applications. I grind it thinner and chase the threads with a tap. Or use a washer in an appropriate spot. At least then I don't have to grind the screw to the short length as well.

 

Never had one bend enough to pull through - ripped the plastic boot apart too many times instead. The T-nut has more area to spread out over the plastic than the weld nuts like @Horton 's picture.

 

Eric

[skihacker]

One other thing is to make sure the hardware won't sit too low and rest on the top of your ski, that makes ugly in a hurry.

[BraceMaker]

@eleeski run a bolt through the T-Nuts from behind before you grind them, back the screw out once it cools and the threads will be nice and clean and flush w/o tapping.

 

Also gives you a great handle to hold with a vice grip.

 

[eleeski]

@BraceMaker Thanks, good tip. If I use the proper washer, I can get the bolt to the right length as well. Except I often still need to chase the threads coming from the other side to make the first thread easier to catch properly. Especially with a cut down bolt.

 

Still, I really like that idea. I'm going to make a standard grind down bolt so I get a consistent grind down. Thanks.

 

Eric

[BraceMaker]

Use a jam nut if doing production if you grind unevenly it will spin.

 

Also you can heat a sacrificial nut and press form them into plastics to recess.

[mmosley899]

@Than_Bogan the s/s t-nuts I use have holes in them to hold them by. Available at Lowes, manufactured by Hillman Group.

 

[waterskicorey]

I buy SS nuts and washers and have them wielded together, they work great

[waterskicorey]

 

 

[waterskicorey]

They never bend, don't turn and last forever

[mmosley899]

@waterskicorey great idea, but how much does 100 welded nuts with washers cost?

[waterskicorey]

Cheap compared with what Goode charges for theirs

[gcam4]

@waterskicorey the only downside I see to that is if they welder doesn't do a great job with gas coverage while welding they will rust. Albeit, probably not enough to worry about though. You also have to make sure what grade of SS you're using.

[waterskicorey]

I've been using mine for about 4 years and no rust at all, they still look like new

[Than_Bogan]

Found 'em!

 

McMaster Carr has 'em

 

Apparently they are called press-in nuts. Seems they are "supposed" to be installed with special tool or a press, but for jamming them into G10 it seems that the screw force itself is enough. There are varieties for sheet metals as well.

[driftpoint]

I ended up having some made.

Originals were cheap 4000 series aluminum. I had them made in 6061, so they are stronger. Much stronger. Also beefed up around the top surface and removed the countersink since I have been messing with hardware.

I don't post much, but thought I would share.